- Thread starter Farmall49
- Start date
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
I can think of a few things that come to mind.
Operating range of RPMs is one.
Finding a good one that is not worn out is another.
Overhauling one and adding in a commercial carb and governor could be a problem as well.
Good luck.
Operating range of RPMs is one.
Finding a good one that is not worn out is another.
Overhauling one and adding in a commercial carb and governor could be a problem as well.
Good luck.
deeretails
Member
I think you would need to figure out a way to mount a governor.
rockyridgefarm
Well-known Member
Many engines that powered balers were air cooled. You'll have to work out how to get the radiator mounted on a skid with the engine, and then keep it clear of chaff.
You'll have to figure out how to drive the baler. Most were belt driven onto the flywheel, so you'll need to mount a pulley on the crankshaft.
You're only going to need maybe 20 hp to run a baler. Most car engines are going to be well beyond that.
I doubt you'll see any fuel savings by running a smaller tractor, because you're burning fuel in the baler's engine.
But hey! Go for it! It'd be a neat project, and something you can be proud of if you make it work. I remember reading an article in FarmShow about guys who use brand new balers with engines out west, & they pull them with pickups. They could take them down the road a lot faster to get from one field to the next.
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Give us more detail on the tractor and baler combination you are running. Here are my opinions to
what you have brought to the table. I would not go for a fuel injected engine. Almost any fuel
injected engine out of a vehicle requires a computer and all is associated sensors, that equates a
pain is the a$$ to connect an get to operate properly Not saying it can't be done. Simple carb is
way better. If you do add the engine on the baler you can find a belt driven governor of either a
early letter series Gleaner combine that ran a Chevy engine or a Heston swather with a Chrysler
slant 6. I think you would be far better taking money and time spent on the baler motor up grade
and apply that to a trade/upgrade in the tractor or baler you have or are considering.
what you have brought to the table. I would not go for a fuel injected engine. Almost any fuel
injected engine out of a vehicle requires a computer and all is associated sensors, that equates a
pain is the a$$ to connect an get to operate properly Not saying it can't be done. Simple carb is
way better. If you do add the engine on the baler you can find a belt driven governor of either a
early letter series Gleaner combine that ran a Chevy engine or a Heston swather with a Chrysler
slant 6. I think you would be far better taking money and time spent on the baler motor up grade
and apply that to a trade/upgrade in the tractor or baler you have or are considering.
Tom OConnor
Member
Freeman makes a dandy baler with its own engine. No need to monkey-doodle around with an old pile of junk when there is one made to get the job done with.
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
Might as well make it self propelled with a air conditioned cab, then you won't need a tractor at all.
rusty6
Well-known Member
- Location
- East central Sask.
Some early New Holland balers had a two cylinder Wisconsin air cooled engine to power the baler. Depending on what kind of baler you have , more power might not be an advantage. I've found that putting a bigger tractor on my baler just means I break more shear pins by driving too fast. They can only put the hay through so fast before they overload and shear off a pin.
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
Find a Hoof governor from wood chipper that has a gas engine in it, its belt driven, and should be easy to mount.
Are you serious? You want to mount a large, extremely heavy, water cooled engine on the front of a baler? Why? It makes no sense. If you want a separate engine driving the baler, you'd be far better off finding an air cooled engine, probably diesel. Even then you have to match pto rotation and rpm which may require an expensive gear box. What are you trying to pull this rig with that doesn't have the power to run the baler now?
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
The old 1200cc air cooled VW engine has something like 36hp stock (has to be more power than the W4). 2 people can sit the VW engine on it. Cut the bell housing of the VW transaxle so you can use the VW starter.
Old BMC engines from Austins, MGs sometimes used as replacement for the Continental 61 inch flat heads, IHC cubs, Wisconsins. Later the Nissan 210 and 310 engines with trannies used in second gear or 1st gear, sometime in reverse- in some northern states good engine and trannies in bodies that had salt rot and front suspensions collapsing from fender wells rot, rear subframes rotted were handy auxiliary power units 1200 to 1500cc Ohv 4 cylinders, hydraulic or cable clutches- set ups like the IHC U2 power units with selective speeds. I know a guy with a wood splitter using a 140 inch Ford, manual transmission driving hydraulic pump- tranny in second gear, fast idle set for about 1500rpm. Ugly, clumsy but workable where set up to side of house. Some of OHC small Japanese engines had a LP industrial version with a short duration camshaft available for better torque at lower speed, governors, aux power/PTO output boxes- Car engines can be setup close to those units with salvage parts. Japanese small car engine with aluminum blocks, iron cylinder and some time thin cast iron block/ aluminum heads are lighter than say a Chevy 2 derived engine. Up to mid 1980s means hardened valves but no computer, carb still used, and fair amount of parts available. Chevette engines have been put in Garden Tractors, some power units as well. Little VW engines handy as noted but getting expensive since collectors after them-at least locally central Wisconsin. RN.
I saw your post on what to do with your worn out 560. If your time has any value you will be money ahead to sell or trade the 560 for a 706, 756 or larger tractor to power your baler through the existing PTO shaft. Most 50+ year old balers don't have a very fast pickup speed, so your ground speed is limited by your pickup speed regardless of how it is powered. If you pull a bale wagon on hills you still need a tractor with enough weight and brakes to maintain control with a full wagon.
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