Trouble keeping tractor running

I am a first time tractor owner. I have a 1962 Massey Ferguson 50. I am having trouble keeping it running. It will run fine for a while and then it starts cutting out and dies. It usually starts right back up but will run rough for a while and then may die again or it might run ok for a while and then cut out and die again. I was thinking of replacing as much electrical items I could. Plug wires, coil, distributer cap, rotor, dust cap, voltage regulator, solenoid, and plugs. At first I thought it could be a fuel issue and it may be. I have replaced the fuel cap and there doesn't seem to be a fuel filter only a sediment bowl which is always clean. I am currently baffled and would appreciate any feedback on this issue. I am trying to avoid spending money that I don't need to. It is a 4 cylinder Continental engine 12 volt system.

Thanks,
Ken

Have you tried opening the carb drain plug to see that you have a strong steady flow of gas?

no I haven't tried that. Also after it has run a while if I remove the gas cap there is a lot of pressure built up in the tank. Is that normal?

There is a fuel screen in the bottom of tank at the shut off.
There is also a screen in the elbow at the carb. I'd start there
and make sure you have a good flow of fuel to the carb.

Gas caps should be vented, if you think that is an issue leave the cap a little loose and see if that helps.

I have checked and cleaned the filter in the sediment bowl. I was not aware there was a filter in the carb elbow. I will check it out. Thanks

This sounds more like a fuel problem than an electrical one. From the sound of it, something is in the tank blocking the outlet fitting inside the tank. Like something as simple as an old piece of paper floating in the tank. As long as the engine is running, it would be drawn to the outlet. As soon as it stalls, the blockage could float away a bit. Then when you restart it, the fuel bowl on the carburetor is not filled up, so it runs a bit lean causing the rough running.
Just a guess on my part, but something I would look into.
Generally, electrical problems are of a more "sudden" nature. They usually also take some time to "reset" to allow restarting. Fuel, on the other hand, tends to be more gradual. Also, a partial blockage will fill the carb, and after running for a bit will start to starve the engine for fuel. Then, while the engine is stopped and you are going to restart it, it "catches up," fills the carb again, and you repeat the cycle.
You may also have a restriction somewhere else in the fuel circuit. Possibly built up deposits from years of fuel passing through.

What would be the easiest way to check this? would I need to pull the fuel tank?

If you have good gas flow out the bottom of the carb look at the coil or condenser as those will act up
as they get warm and run good cold. I would start by opening the carb drain and watching the flow, it it
runs good for a while then try the tune up. I also had an issue with one of my tractors acting like that
and it turned out to be a cap from a gas can in the tank that would ocasionally get over the gas line
and stop flow, so look in your tank too.

Check your point gap, check for side play in the distributor shaft. Those are known for the bushing to wear, then the points won't stay set.

As others said, pull the drain plug on the carb, you should get a full stream at first, then as the bowl empties the flow will slow, but if it slows do a drip, or stops, there is a restriction in the fuel supply.

There should be a screen above the sediment bowl, and some have a screen in the fuel inlet elbow at the carb. Could also be trash in the needle/seat. If so open the carb and take a look inside. Probably won't need a kit if you're careful with the gaskets. Don't be afraid of the carb, they are simple and field serviceable.

Also try taking the gas cap off. I recently ordered a vented cap, the box said vented, the cap said vented... It wasn't! Had to drill a small hole in the bottom. Look at the fuel line, it should be steel, not copper, and routed as far away from the exhaust as practical. Should be no kinks or excess length, as short and down hill as possible, no inline filters.

If it runs good when it runs, likely there isn't much wrong. Always best to locate the problem before replacing multiple parts. That can lead to more problems (and money) that before!

Trouble shoot first then parts NEVER the other way around or you can add to yoru problems.
#1 make sure you have a good blue/white spark at the center wire of the distributor cap and at all 4 plug wires that jump a 1/4 inch gap as soon as the trouble start.
If the spark is good go to #2
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in under 3 minutes. Yes catch the gas in a pint jar. If it does not flow as fast as I say pull the gas cap and check it again. If it still does not flow good pull the fuel line off the carb and check it there. If bad flow there with the cap off try blowing air into the tank. Just had that flow problem last week on a MF85 I looked at and blowing air into the tank fixed it. But if it does fix it it is only a short term fix and you need to pull the sediment bowl assembly off and rise the tank out a couple times with gas to help clean it out

Just went through the same symptoms on a 1964 MF202 with Z134 engine. Ended up paying the local Agco dealer $500 to haul it in, replace the $4.00 condensor in the distributor, and haul it back to me. Sure, I got an oil change, a hotsy wash, some diagnotic time, and a few other minor tune up tasks for my $, but the bottom line was it was the condensor. You know the one I'm talking about, the one I had replaced twice and the one the guys on the Massey board reccomended I replace again.

My guess would be fuel issue or bad condenser.

You didn't say what you did to restart it. Treat as if flooded, just restart as out of gas, what. Maybe you need the carb adjusted/cleaned. Or maybe some parts are worn. Trouble shoot first!

I had a t030 way back when do that and it
was the shut off valve in the bottom of the
tank was plugged up with this while like
silicone looking stuff.and once the
condenser went bad it would run for a short
time and then die.but it would not start
back up until it cooled down just a little

Take the gas line off of tank side of carb. slip a rubber hose over it, open gas cap and blow backward into tank. Might be some thing covering opening in tank.

I had the gas cap off while I popped the cap off a bottle of Heat. Saw the plastic cap bounce of the tank right into the tank, thought that will never hurt any thing and forgot it. Few years later it would stop now and then, always restarted and might run along time. found that white bottle cap on the tank outlet.