Case 1030 Loader.......

Could use a little more help......I do understand the drawing on hooking the control vale to the ports on the tractor - one hose to upper right and one hose to upper left; I did that today. According to the diagram this is then controlled by "outside lever" on fender; but seems that my "inside" lever controls it. Also, does it hurt anything or matter which direction you move the lever - forward or backward? Thanks again.

Those hoses could have been switched around top to bottom at some time, I don't think it makes any difference on that tractor which is which. We always hooked the hoses so that back was up and forward was down so it was the same as the 3pt, but don't think it matters for that either. I don't believe either has a float position on that tractor.

As I told you, and posted the pic from the op manual of an 7/830 same as 1030, you need to supply pressurized oil thru the INLET port of your loader valve and let it flow back thru the OUTLET port of valve back to other coupler. The pic was explicit on which coupler provided pressure when the lever was moved in each direction!! Your loader valve should have clear markings on the pressure port and outlet port.
Loren

After reading again, someone could have switched the control rods from the levers to the valve control arms. Try the other lever if loader doesn't do anything.
Loren

ok...thanks.......I will keep trying .......

I think you'll get it. Just follow the hoses back to the valves and levers in case somebody switched things on you at one time. When we had a loader on our 1030, it had a three spool valve to accommodate a grapple fork, fed by a single remote circuit. In order to pressurize the spools we had to tie the remote lever back on the tractor. We also had an extra over-sized hose to dump oil directly into the transmission case to relieve back pressure when dropping the loader rather than forcing it through the remote circuit.

ok....sounds like you know a bunch about hydraulics- I have been a "mechanic" all my life but hydraulics have not been my strong point. I have two hoses going to my loader valve mounted on my tractor- im trying to read"in -out" on the valve but haven't found it - I will look more this morning. I have it hooked to "top right port and "top left port"....inside lever activates it. Does it matter if I push lever ahead or pull back ? Thanks.

I hire my major mechanic work done because I ain't too swift but I'll help where I can.

I would say the most important thing to do first is be sure of your circuits.
As others said, a Case 30 series requires a remote on each side as a circuit instead of both on the same side.
Some guys who ran other brands couldn't get used to this and may have rerouted the lines on your tractor
before you got a hold of it. I would suggest you go get a cylinder and hook up your hoses and see what it does. If it acts like it only has power one way and the other acts like a float position, then you may have the two remote circuits criss-crossed. You should have power going both directions.

Second thing to do once you have your remote circuits "paired" is to determine which direction the flow is going. Most everyone hooks up in a way that the implement will raise when you pull back on the lever. If it doesn't, simply
switch the hoses at the remotes to reverse the flow. If you don't have a spare cylinder to check this, then just back up to an implement that has one and hook the hoses up. No need to actually hook up to the drawbar.

Once you have your cylinder working the direction you want, extend the cylinder all the way out and then go to the rear
of the tractor and simply try to twist the hoses at the remotes. The one that's tight is your pressure side. (Once you bump the hydraulic lever down it will loosen and the other hose will get tight.) If it's not the way you want to run it just switch remotes at this time, meaning if you want the loader circuit on the outside lever vs. the inside lever, switch to the other set of remotes. If you want the lever to power the loader hydraulics when its pushed down rather than up, then just flip flop your hoses within the same circuit. To my knowledge I don't think it really matters which way you supply power on these older tractors. It's the same pressure and detents either way. Newer tractors have a built in float position so pulling back is always the up position or power position on those systems.

So by now you should have determined which lever you want to use and which direction you want to pull the lever to put pressure to your loader spool valves as you may have to tie it back to hold it into position because the detents aren't likely to hold it there during loader operation. And now that you know which hose is the pressure side when the lever is pulled, that's the hose you want to run to the spool valve. Most I've seen have the pressure side come in on the left near the main loader lift lever. Second lever being the bucket tilt and the third being the grapple. Then the discharge line coming out the right side and returning to your tractor remote. I'll add that the main lift is usually on the left because again, most I've seen have a float position built into the valve body for loader work.

Helpful tip: Hydraulics on a 1030 are a breeze to couple and uncouple because you don't have to get on and off the tractor to bump the levers to relieve pressure. Just reach under the fuel tank and give the linkage a nudge the direction you want it to go. I wished I could do that on my newer tractors.

Since I tend to ramble, just keep asking questions as I probably only confused you.

Hey thanks a lot....great help! I will do this and I do have it working....thanks.