- Thread starter ETxJohn
- Start date
What issue are you having, no AC output from the transformer, no DC output from the rectifier, or protection solenoid not closing, or no current flow to cables when protection solenoid is closed?
Bob, There is no DC output unless you turn voltage switch to 24v and push dead battery boost switch. Then you can turn back to 12v. output but it charges around 16.5-17 volts. I think part of that problem is that I have a temporary 1200uf cap in place of the needed 3300uf 35v cap. what I don't get is that no DC output to battery cables until put on 24v. and push switch. Somehow the solenoid needs to be energized at turn on.
Thanks
First, install the correct capacitor and see if that fixes it. The current draw of the lamps chosen would obviously have an effect, as well.
guido
Well-known Member
It looks like the caps are getting the voltage too high. The original size would be all you need as it is charging. Bulbs were added trying to do the same thing. So I am thinking the cap is the original size. The solenoid is there to carry the extra momentary current with the heavy contacts,
Guido.
NOT sure why the charging voltage would be that high, but we don't know what range he's set it to, or how accurate his measurement is. It's certainly not unusual for a "boost charger" to put out that kind of voltage on it's high range.
From what little info. that I can find, the charger appears to be approx. 40-50 amp max output. The 16.5 volt plus that it is showing is to a new, fully charged 12V battery. The needle to the amp meter is also broken so unsure of amp output. I plan to replace that and check. Maybe I'm over thinking this. It just seems strange the high output voltage and having to turn it to 24V and push dead battery boost to kick in solenoid. I checked these voltages on high with two different meters, so feel good on that. One more thing, I saw one of those solenoids on ebay listed as polarity protection so I don't know about that. Thanks
Disconnect the capacitor and measure the output voltage of the charger on that fully charged 12V battery, and let me know what you get.
Lead acid chargers almost never have capacitive filtered outputs, the "R/C" of the battery averages the fullwave bridge or halfwave center taped output of the charger to what the battery sees as "full voltage" (be that 6, 12, or 24). I've seen and worked on battery chargers (bigger ones) that had capacitors, but they were in ferroresonant circuits, AKA constant voltage transformers. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_regulator#Constant-voltage_transformer
1.5 Meg in the opposite direction measured with a Fluke 73 III multimeter on the ohms position. That should mean all diodes are bad unless
my multimeter ohms-range battery isn't strong enough. I just put a new 9 V battery in the multimeter
guido
Well-known Member
Your meter has a diode tester setting right next to the ohm's range, use that to get a good read on the diodes. I studied the circuit again, and I would like to see what the a/c input is on the diodes. Seems that the capacitors have increased the output,
but I can't see how by the circuit though,
Guido.
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