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Retorquing gasket opinions

O

Old560

Member
Put a water pump on my Camry it came with a thermostat housing attached with the gasket between them, bolts installed by the factory. I never checked the torque on the bolts now that it's all back together and running it's leaking has anybody had success with just retorquing a paper gasket or do you think I should take it all apart and replace the gasket start fresh. It's not a huge leak but it's seeping through there. I would have to pull the timing belt and everything off the side of the engine.
 
I seriously doubt that retorquing will help if it is a paper gasket. If it leaks, it is probably damaged. You have nothing to lose by trying, though.
 
Well at this point you have nothing to lose by torquing the bolts tight as is.
If that doesn't work, then you'll know that replacing the gasket is necessary.

Larry
 
By all means retorque it and see what it gets you. Most "paper" (fiber composite) gaskets will relax (called compression set) after an initial period and will benefit from a retorque. This is especially true of older-technology and cheaper composites. Without knowing exactly what was used for a gasket, it's impossible to know how much it will help, but it's definitely something to try first before you replace the gasket, which, if it's the same type as you used the first time, will just lead to the same result.
 
At this point try to retorque the bolts, if that does no good I would just try some radiator stop leak, I am not a big fan of this as it may plug up heater core but would be a cheap, time saving fix.
 
I should add that this is not the termostat housing. The w/p bolts to a housing then the thermostat housing. It came as a unit w/o the thermostat housing. So i figured the factory would have torqued the bolts for w/p and housing. I was wrong. So for now i'll just retorque and go.
 
(quoted from post at 08:01:55 01/17/17) Wow jimg,

What are the odds of two almost identical answers posted at the exact same time.

Larry
Click to expand...

I would say that the odds are pretty good. Active time of day and an answer that probably 98% of the general population would agree with.
 
I think the problem that you will find now is that once antifreeze contaminates the surface, its got to be cleaned, and the only way to clean it is to take it apart, and that will also require a new gasket and sealer whether the gasket comes with sealer or you need to add sealer like Permatex No. 2 during reassembly. It's together now, what do you have to lose in trying to torque it down? You might get lucky. Nothing to lose in trying. In long term reality though, well good luck, but that stuff doesn't tend to fix itself.

Mark
 
I would NEVER, and I MEAN NEVER put any kind of stop leak into ANY car, truck, or other liquid cooled engine that I intended to keep for more than to take it to the auction barn. I simply don't know of any more effective way to gum up a cooling system. That stuff should be outlawed.
The worst part of it is that once the damage has been done, it usually winds up in my bay to repair the damage as well as can be done. Starting with a radiator flush and rodding out, replace the heater core, replace all of the hoses, ands flush out the engine as well as can be done. All of that from a little can of "mechanic in a can" for trying to save the time and labor of FIXING IT RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Is it a Russian built camry are a chines built camery :?: I work on these all the time and have no ID what you are talking about.

Year, and engine size please... The engine code would also be nice to have... The first 10 of the vin will nail it
:wink:
 
I don't know if you have a Napa near you but they sell aviation gasket sealer. I use it on any paper gasket that comes in contact with coolant. It works great never leaks.
 
I always put those gaskets on wet and have no call backs. Permatex #2 is what I use putting a thin coat on both sides. Sug it down with a 6" by ? or 9/16 box end wrench, one hand pull till it quits turning.
 
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