IH D-282 Turbo installation?

Hi all, while I am installing a turbo onto my 1966 706 D282, I know for a dead fact that these 282's were easy head gasket poppers even being naturally aspirated and a stock fuel pump. The thing I have to say today is, what if I turned the Torque screw adjustment on the injector pump WAY down on it to where the motor only dyno's at around 45 horse power? Then with it only pumping out 45 horsepower, I could safely mount my turbo charger onto it with out it increasing the chance to blow the head gasket... It shouldn't affect the head gasket because with 45 horse power max, the turbo charger would for example jack it up back to it's stock horsepower , 60-70 hp. , ((i can always adjust my fuel up just a tad if it only dyno's at 50 hp WITH the turbo), I can adjust it just high enough to where it gets stock horsepower (70hp) WITH the turbo on the dyno. If it has stock horsepower WITH the turbo after I turn down my fuel delivery, wouldn't it have literally exact same compression as if it did not have the turbo and the fuel pump was turned way back up to where it originally is factory? Plus wouldn't I get even Bette fuel economy? Like I said, as I have stated before, I don't even need 50 hp out of this tractor as the only thing I do with it is pull hay rakes and drive In parades. I added this turbo because I wanted the "turbo sound affect" on my D282. Oh and the turbo I made fit to my naturally aspirated exhaust manifold is off of a DT-436. Thanks guys. Let me know if my idea is a good idea,,,

Granted it sounds good in theory.. but.. you'll be lucky if it runs at all..
You *cramming* air into the cylinders w/ no fuel.. or reduced fuel in your case.
its going to run lean at best.
You do have the luxury of having a dyno to test the theory tho..
in 100% of diesel turbo installations, you turn the fuel UP to compensate for the added air being introduced..
If all you want is the *sound*.. there are whistles on the market that fit in the exhaust tips for that..
and a lot less expensive than a turbo & manifold..
These are just my opinions tho..

It all seems a bit pointless to me.
First, the reason that it is hard on head gaskets is more related to the clamping force of the head bolts, the rigidity of the head and block castings, and the quality of the gaskets themselves.
Turning down the fuel will reduce the power output with or without a turbocharger. The turbo will effectively double the amount of air entering the engine thus effectively raising the compression ratio.
If the pump only delivers enough fuel to generate 40 horsepower, it would seem to follow that adding more air will not affect horsepower unless you add more fuel as well.
Since it is only going to be a parade tractor on light duty, it will probably live for a good long time without needing a head gasket. And, if it does, once you change it, it will likely live for a good long time after that without needing another.

Also I forgot to say, my 706 is a very late model from 1966, like its serial number is just a few digits before they dropped the 310's into them. Also, I heard the early model 282's heads were a bit different, and were much more likely to pop gaskets. I am positive i have the late model, because the tractor was manufactured just a few digits before they dropped the 310's into them. My 706's hour meter was not working when I got the tractor. it read's of right now 39XX hours. i don't know how much more hours are on it. I don't think very much because everything is very tight, no slop in front axle at all, some 3 point hitch linkage wear, shifting linkage is loose, as in it needs new roll pins. non of the ball joints on the shifting linkages are loose though. and its all original. I can raise the 3 point hitch all the way up with a really heavy load on the back and after i shut of engine, it will stay raised completely up for weeks. My head gasket has absolutely no leaks, no oozing oil bubbles coming out of anywear.... I know that if their is seepage, that means the gasket is ready to retire...

Okay, i understand. and yea i know it is pointless, but still. i can remember talking to an ih 66 series tractor puller a few months ago, he said i could turn the fuel down on a 966 my brother has and add a turbo, and it would still have the same horsepower but better fuel economy. i never mentioned my 706 to him. i never had it then. ... and i understand the running lean part, and it not even starting, but the turbo doesn't spin unless there is any type of fuel exploding in the motor causing a big compression, that turns the turbo (pretty much).. So if its turned down to 45 and the turbo is mounted, but the torque screw is not permitting the metering valve from giving the motor enough fuel to get 58 horsepower, then i turn the torque bolt, and then it pumps even more fuel to the pistons (creating bigger hotter explosions) then that will really rev up the turbo, giving it the COMPRESSING power which will ADD EVEN WAY MORE compressed air into the pistons, so, really, the air fuel mixture is always ALMOST the same isn't it? unless it is under a serious load. because at heavy loads, the turbo only SPOOLS UP when there is serious fuel delivery being increased into the pistons, causing BIG HOT explosions, that turn the turbo even faster. so when a regular diesel engine is running, lets say no load, turbo will only spin as fast as the size of the explosion of the amount of fuel in pistons. how could it run lean? i understand when the turbo spins, it shoves air into the pistons, but it will not spin (hardly at all) unless there is fuel creating explosions, creating pressure to push the turbo. the turbo will only spin as fast as the fuel permits it to. This is my beliefs so far. If you have a different belief, or an argument against my theory, I strongly ask, please comment your theory. because one of the theory's out of the may people who comments is going to be right. So send them in. Thanks for any help.

I would try to find a smaller turbo, a DT436 turbo is a little on the big side, something off a 5.9/3.9 cummins or 4.5/3.9 Deere would work better. I think you'll find it very lazy with that big charger on there. I don't think you'd be happy turning the fuel back, it will be lazy, if it were mine, I'd put a correctly sized turbo on and turn it up to about 90-100hp.

Your theories are somewhat off the mark.
Diesel engines are unthrottled. That means that air is flowing freely into and out of the engine with no restriction from a throttle plate. That means that the turbo will spin to some extent regardless of how much fuel is going into the combustion chamber.
You mistake "explosions" for an increase in gas volume leaving the engine. Fuel BURNS! It does not EXPLODE! When it burns, it causes an increase in gas volume in the cylinder. This increase in gas volume forces the pistons down and produces power in this manner. A turbo will simply force MORE AIR into the engine. That means it needs MORE FUEL for proper combustion. Then it becomes a vicious circle with more air and more fuel producing more gas volume which in turn causes the turbo to force even more air into the engine. As a safety device and to prevent over speed, most turbochargers will have a device called a waste gate to vent off excess boost pressure.

Now, no matter what you are told on this forum, I suspect that you will keep asking until you get the answers you want to hear. In the meantime, you are going to do whatever you want with the fuel, turbo, etc. Good luck with it.

I am with the pump guy. In affect what you are doing is YOU ARE GOING TO BLOW OUT THE FIRE> By not turning up the fuel and using the oversized turbo IF you get it spinning you are going to have way too much air for the fuel. You keep talking about the compression what turns the turbo is the AMOUNT of exhaust gas going OUT of the head. Now I admit more fire in the cylinder makes more exhaust but takes a balance. For what you are doing your set up may be fine but I doubt that I would turn the fuel down. I would just add the turbo and hope for the best. If you don,t work it harder than you indicate you are it should be fine.

Dont touch the fuel screw! I know of several turbo 282s. they work as well as any other.My brother has a 560 that's been turboed for at least 40(maybe 50) years.For paradeing,no issues.If you 'blow' it,install a pyrometer.A
'must' with an added turbo.The biggest issue is heat.Lug it down it will get hot fast. Let it run free and easy,there will be no issues. That 282 can be turned to 75 horse,just dont lug it .

75 on a 560. 90 on a 706.Sure you can go higher,but then you start to get heat and reliability and longevity issues.

Leave the fuel screw alone...Pulling a hay rake or parading this tractor
isn't going to blow a head gasket..Back in the old days I saw 90-100 horse
560's at tractor pulls and they seldom ever lost a head gasket..

The one pictured popped head gaskets once in awhile but it had an
inline pump and 2 turbos..It was making 400-500 horses..

Well this is my take on this , Are you going to use the correct turbo or just something that will fit ?? IF you do blow a head gskt then there were other problems going on . Do not go playen with the pump . Do not lug the engine down do not over load the engine and do not think that oh now i have the trubo i can go pull bigger equipment . .Install a pyrometer and watch it . Do a major tune up before you install it ,and what i am sayen here is pull the valve cover and run the valves and if you are not sure on how to do this and do it correctly then get someone that knows how and what to look for while doing them . Also recheck bead bolt torque when the engine is warmed up on this one . Check injection pump timing and advance and make sure they are set and working . Have your injectors tested and if needed rebuilt . But if you want a 45 Hp. tractor then go buy a farmall M . If you want to play then be ready to pay . Yes they put turbos on 560's and 706's and TD 9's with the D282 , yes there were some problems as when they were doing this they were wanting more power to do more work with out buying a bigger tractor . Your working with a 4 main bearing engine with limited head bolts . So on that note if you keep the pony power at around 75-80 and don't try pulling 5 bottoms in heay ground or a seven shank chisel or a 18 foot disc you will get along pretty well.

You won't see much boost with the turbo you are putting on anyway, as it's larger than you need. The turbine housing needs to be smaller for the 282 to spool it up higher. Find a copy of Hugh McInnes book, TURBOCHARGERS and study it, that's what I did when I played with a turbo on an Olds 455 V-8 on LP in a pickup years ago. The turbo I used then had a P.58 turbine housing for use on a 350 cube diesel, changed it to a P.96 housing for the larger 455. Lots of turbos adjust the A/R ratio this way to match the engine needs for best matching. That same turbo I played with on the Olds is now on a Massey Super 90 puller with a P.69 housing that runs just over 200 HP.

Great advice..I knew of several turbo 560's that were run at
close to 80 horses with few problems..Of course this 460
with a D-301 had a few more horses..

Okay, so really, your saying heat is what destroys them head gaskets pretty much?? if thats the case, then thats good to know. thank you. When you say not to lug it, do you mean to not drop the 15 furrow plow in the ground all the way and make the engine do something it absolutely could not do with out the turbo or pump adjusted? thank you.

Well there you go. You have the late model head the tractor has over 3000 hours, she's 50 years old, the gasket not leaking and the old girl is running good. Put the turbo on and dyno it. They're good old engines tractor rides and other little jobs won't hurt it much. Back in the day guys doing what you are doing put the fuel to them and bought a bigger plow. Then when they took them to the local tractor pull they tiurned up the fuel some more

You clearly did not read what I requested with common sense. why don't you go back and read every word i said. and every word i say, And everybody else, thank you for the help. Majority of people say the Turbo is to big, will run lean, well then I'm not going to put it in. maybe i will buy the m&w turbo kit made for the d282. in a year from now. but i cancelled putting it on because its to big.

I put one turbo on a 560. The guy needed a little more umph for his two row silage chopper. Well, tweaked it a little to 70 horsepower. Hey, that was easy, give me a little more so I can pull with it. Ya, that went pretty good , how about another 10 horses. The dam thing would put out 90 horse power (factory high idle rpm's and 540 rpm's at horse power reading). He would then turn the high idle adjusting screw out all the way and unhook throttle linkage, run it with a length of wire. I have no idea how many rpm's it went up to during the pull. Best part was, announcer at pull says, guy installed a turbo for more power for pull. Guy's wife asked him after pull was over, what is a turbo. He says, some little thing that gives it more power. Never told his wife much about his operation.

Not too long after, a sleeve is in the crankcase. I repaired the engine and then he traded it off. Now the problem really starts as the new owner pulls it for all it is worth at that horsepower on the farm doing tillage. I saw bearings tear up, even in the TA, that I never saw fail ever. A really nice tractor was literally destroyed.

The 282 puts out all the power the way it comes from the factory that it was ever intended. I always felt they should have limited the air supply to about 50 horse power at 1800 or 60 at 2300 rpms and problems 90 percent solved. Put in more cubic inches if you wanted more power.

Turbo's were originally intended and used to compensate for higher elevations where oxygen levels were lower. Then they went nuts with them.