Engine block repairs

So what are the thoughts on frozen (burst) engine block repairs. Ive seen a few done successfully with what appears to be some form of brazing done with gas welding gear.. Ive also heard people doing it with fancy rods and a stick welder. Ive also heard of someone trying a MIG with some success. Is it down to skill or the correct rods or are there a whole range of criteria that needs to be considered.
Just interested.
Bill
 
You can use any of those methods successfully if you remove the block so it can be laid down and you use propper pre-heat and post heat to control temps and prevent additional cracking.

Check out the link below for what I think is a better solution. And with this method there is no need to remove the block. Along these same lines I have patched them by cutting a plate a bit larger than the hole and drilling holes around the outside and drilling and tapping the block and bolting a patch on.
Loc n stitch
 
I welded one with nickel rod about 40 years ago, before I had very much knowledge about pre-heating. It leaked a little when I was done so I put some stop leak in it and used it for 8 years and then sold it. With the proper technique I think I could do much better now. You have heard the saying, too soon old, too late smart!
 
A lot also depends on where it's cracked.

If the crack is completely external, and accessible, I'll give it a maybe.

If the crack runs through the head bolt holes, or is internal... Unless it's something extremely rare, not worth the chance in my opinion.
 
Yes it can be done. As long as you can get in there and work it can be fixed. Internal like a main webbing knocked out is more than likely going to be a boat anchor. But external around the block as long as you have good access to work go for it.
 
I have an 8N ford with a patch about 3" x4" welded on the side of the block. It seeps a little oil but otherwise it's ok. There was an old time welder in the community that was good at it. Not many guys around today could I am afraid.
 
I welded a block crack on a Chevy six with Nickel rod years ago. Worked OK. I have also used JB Weld on a 350 Chevy block. It went 80,000 more miles till I quit driving it.
 
If I were going to try it, I would use a cast iron type welding rod on a stick welder. I would use stitch welds and fill in between with JB Weld. Also drill holes at each end of the crack to keep it from traveling.
 
There is also a method called block stitching. There are images on the www. I like the idea of making a plate if the crack is horizontal. It makes it look like the block on a flat head engine. One of my dexta blocks has a nickel welded crack and it does not leak. Someone knew what they were doing.

The best treatment is prevention. It puzzles me why someone would not put antifreeze in a tractor engine just trying to save $15.
 
It is not from trying to save cost of anti freeze. It is forgeting that if you had a leak and fixed it you just added water to get to work and see if the fix held with intentions of later doing the antifreeze and forgeting it. Of someone else adding water and you not knowing about it thinking it was good as from one year to next it should not loose its freeze protection but then someone else weekens it and you do not know about it. This kind of things is mostly why it happens. Or in the case of down south where it has not gotten cold enough to freeze things that you have not needed it for 20? years and you get that one unexpeted cold snap 20* colder than you can ever remember and it hits you before you realize it can happen.
 
I have a 8N too with a patch welded on the side of the block at #2 piston, close to the oil pan. It does not leak a bit. I bought it for a parts tractor. This morning it was about 8 below, with a foot of snow on it and it started like it was only 0 degrees. I couldn't believe that. I might have to reconsider that move.
 
Borrowed a jd 730d to someone once and they blew a radiator hose. They fixed it and filled it with water
and brought it home without saying anything. 2 days later the block was broke.
 
Other than being a sloooow process, it's not a big deal to weld a freeze cracked block if you can get to the damaged area easily. I helped weld a Ford tractor block 30+ years ago - the cracks looked like a spider web - didn't leak a drop when we got it back together. We used "fancy rods and a stick welder". Nickle rods to be specific.

After having said that, I wouldn't mess with it now. We were flat broke back then - hog prices were plummeting - kids were crying - wife was pregnant - I was working two jobs plus raising hogs - everything I owned was worn out - options were severely limited.

I'd hunt up a good block today.
 
(quoted from post at 16:04:17 12/19/16) So what are the thoughts on frozen (burst) engine block repairs. Ive seen a few done successfully with what appears to be some form of brazing done with gas welding gear.. Ive also heard people doing it with fancy rods and a stick welder. Ive also heard of someone trying a MIG with some success. Is it down to skill or the correct rods or are there a whole range of criteria that needs to be considered.
Just interested.
Bill

Sodium silicate (water glass) is what I've used - It has worked very well to seal cracks. 'Ni rod' with proper pre & post-heat, along with mechanical peening also works good for me. 8)
 
I know the conventional wisdom is that you can't repair a cracked block by brazing it, but I have made several such repairs; all of them were successful and are still running. I use an oxyacetylene torch, brazing rod and a jet fluxer. I preheat the area before brazing.
 
I fixed the block in my SC Case by draining the fluids, carefully laying the tractor on its side and welding with nickel. If I was to do it again I would braze it. I used a combination of the chain hoist and the loader to get it over without damage.
 
I have seen all of the methods mentioned work. I think if I didn't want to use one of these ideas for one reason or another I would try a thin steel patch and small screws drilled and tapped into the castiron, seal with silicone.
 
Depends a lot on where it cracked and why. Most I have seen welded or patched still seeped antifreeze from the hair line cracks that are still left behind from the welding process. Was a local guy who welded them and then soldered over them to seal them up. Those seem to of worked but still looked bad. There is a crayon like stuff sold at welding shops to do the same sort of thing.
Never had any luck patching them with things like JB weld because it does not expand and contract like the metal does once it is warmed up and worked. Never tried it but maybe the urethane for installing windshields would seal them ?
 
I had a cracked block once and after reading up on all the proper repair process it seemed easier to just get a better block.
 

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