Deep well pump/presssure tank advice

Murray2

Member
Deep well pump, just read a posting on this page about Gary requesting advice on well pump pressure tank. I do have one of these systems at another location. Shut the system down yesterday for the winter month's. When put back in operation in the spring is the pressure tank supposed to be pressurized before or after the electric current has been turned on the pump. This is a deep well submersible pump and 25 gallon water tank with the bladder in tank. This was all newly installed last summer. Previous system I had installed worked great for30 or more years, although I don't really have a lot of knowledge on these pump systems. Thanks, Murray
 
I was told to let all the water pressure off the system to check the air pressure in the bladder tank. So I guess that would have to mean check it before you turn the pump on and build any water pressure.
 
You check the air pressure BEFORE filling the tank with water. 2 PSI under your system pressure is what is wanted for air pressure.
 
You should not need to do anything except turn on the pump. I drilled water wells for years and installed a lot of pumps and pressure tanks. Bladder tanks last for years but as nothing last forever neither will your pressure tank. Be sure that your water heater tank is full of water before turning it on to heat the water. Happy holidays.
 
Take the cover off your pressure gauge and it should tell under the cover what the kick on and off pressure is. 30#on and off at 50# is common. Set you tank pressure 2# less than the kick on pressure which would be 28#s. Do this before you turn the system back on.
 
Assuming every thing was good when you shut it down, you shouldn't need to do a thing when you fire it back up.

Since you say you shut it down for the winter, I'm assuming you drained all your pipes. This would be a bit of a problem for a non-bladder tank, but as long as the bladder is good your tank will maintain its precharge.

To set your precharge, you first need to figure out the cut-in pressure (when the pump turns on). Just run a tap and watch your pressure gauge to see at what pressure the pump kicks in. Then shut everything off and completely drain the tank. You will NOT be able to properly set the precharge if the tank's not empty! Then add air to the tank (via the schraeder valve at the top) until the pressure is 2 psi shy of the cut-in pressure.
 
That is true, but the problem I have run into is finding gauges that are consistent within 2 pounds. Here is the way I check them, turn of the power, and slowly bleed off the pressure, when the switch clicks to start the pump then the gauge should drop about another 2 psi slowly and then drop quickly. To me that is a proper set up, does this make sense?
 
> That is true, but the problem I have run into is finding gauges that are consistent within 2 pounds. Here is the way I check them, turn of the power, and slowly bleed off the pressure, when the switch clicks to start the pump then the gauge should drop about another 2 psi slowly and then drop quickly. To me that is a proper set up, does this make sense?

I agree. If you're not using the same gauge to check both cut-in and precharge pressure, it's probably not going to be right. My original water pressure gauge "zeroed" at 15 psi. And I've purchased tire pressure gauges that were as much as 5 psi off from my old German-made Draeger gauge. I like your method.
 

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