Make my own front spindles

I'd like to build some improved front spindles for my IH 154. Factory spindles use simple and light duty caged ball bearings held on by a 3/8 bolt. Tapered bearings would be a great improvement, especially since I have a loader on it. Easiest way would be to turn out copies using 1" cold rolled, but I'd have to put a 90 degree (about) bend in it for the part that goes thru the casting. Wondering if a heat treat of some sort would be needed after the bend operation (done hot of course). Another option is to buy spindles and jig up a welded assembly. Wonder which would be stronger?
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If you have not bent them yet, i would just replace the original ball bearings with angular contact ball bearings and a very light preload. They are far more thrust worthy and solid. jim
 
If you have not bent them yet, i would just replace the original ball bearings with angular contact ball bearings and a very light preload. They are far more thrust worthy and solid. Jim
 
The spindles shown here used on the Massey windrowers are cold-formed from 1045 2.5" solid shaft with no afterform heat treat. You don't want the spindles to be hard and brittle - you want toughness and a bit of flexibility to prevent cracks. I'd avoid welding as this will introduce stress concentrations.
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I think you are wasteing your time. You can buy a whole box full of those roller bearings for what you will spend buying new hubs and wheels and fabing new spindals. If you have a loader on that 154 and haven't bent the spindals you don't use the tractor and loader hard enough to warrant the changeover.
Loren
 
No it doesn't get used hard, more of a yard toy. But I use it to move firewood, bags of feed, and a little dirt. Here's a couple pictures after I fabricated the bucket but before I got it painted. The loader was a new surplus Massey unit with joystick valve I built mounts to fit the 154. Bucket is a quick attach design that matches my skidloader so I can use forks as well.
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You could weld up heavier spindles. How good are you at measuring the angles on the old spindles and building welding jigs? If you figure $50 to $75 per hour for your time you may be ahead to trade for a larger tractor.

If the original bearings are actually light duty bearings, you can probably find much heavier ball bearings with the same ID, OD and width. That would allow you to install heavier bearings without making any other modifications. Start by looking up your original bearing dimensions and the load rating, then search for other bearings with the same dimensions and higher load ratings. Once you identify your old bearings, a local bearing house like Motion Industries or Fastenal might be willing to help you with your search or direct you to their manufacturer's online catalogs. Pay close attention to which seals were used on the original bearings.
 
I would say no sweat with original bearings. Here is were to go on those bearings. Not the cheap route but the correct one. Go to a full service bearing place and get the highest code number bearings you can get. Tell them what you have and they will give you a higher number bearing. Cost more but are a much better part. Look on google and you want "Notes on bearings" it shows you what all of those numbers and letters mean. There are some real special bearings out there that might fit your bill. Also take the hub with you so they can fit things up. Been there,done that with my big Husqvarna. Had steel bushings and I changed it over to ball bearings. SWEET!!
 
If you are satisfied with the king pin (upright) portion of the spindle, you could buy a replacement light duty trailer spindle, bore the end to an on size fit and mill a slot in the top. Slide the new spindle over the old spindle and weld. That would get the caster angle right.

Then you could use a trailer hub and bolt on wheel.

Would be a lot heavier duty than what's on there now, and not very expensive to do. Just be careful not to extend the centerline of the wheel further out than it is now or there will be too much leverage on the spindle.
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