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Just curious

T

Texasmark1

Well-known Member
Just saw a clutch disc with 5 (give or take) pads, vs a standard 360 degree "brake shoe material" type clutch disc. that you normally see. Anybody have any real world info about why you would prefer one over the other. Are the pad types made out of a really hard material like ceramic or something similar? If the pads are harder one would expect them to last longer so why aren't they OEM rather than the other in most cases?

Thanks,
Mark
 
They are a button style clutch good in some ways bad in others,, I personally don't like them,, they are jumpy and eat fly wheels up..drag a bit to to make shifting gears a bit harder..
 
Button clutches will hold better, but are more jumpy to use. Higher hp tractors use them. The case 930 has a standard clutch, but the 1030 has the button type.
 
Yep, they will eat up a flywheel. I had a specialty ceramic button clutch made for my one pickup. It is kinda touchy, more chattery than a fiber clutch. I also had a ceramic button clutch made for my grader that I used to have, had a 16 or 18" clutch, worked real good. Helps that I have an awesome clutch shop not too far away.
 

To piggy back Mark's question - I have 2 4430s. Neither have been opened up by me. One has a nice smooth clutch that you can back up to equipment without the risk of hitting the equipment, and one is a stressful nightmare when hooking equipment - it's all or nothing, no slipping to go slower. Is the second one likely a button clutch? If it is, I'm never getting another one...

It's not a problem in the field, just when hooking or backing equipment.
 
Oliver started using button clutches in their tractors in the 1970's. My 1955 has one. Never noticed it being grabby or chattering. Can't say about eating flywheels yet. It still has the original clutch in it.
 
4430's are wet clutches and should be
smooth the rough one probably has a broken
spring in the clutch valve
 
I have clutches rebuilt at Clutch Dynamics in Lansing Michigan. They said they very seldom rebuild an organic disc clutch anymore. They recommend a ceramic button clutch for all applications. They're a little bit harder on a flywheel and pressure plate for loader work,but they say the heat dissipation more than makes up for it.
My White 2-135,2-105 and Oliver 1365 came stock with them.
 
Is the clutch pedal hard to push in on your 135? My cousins 135 is that way. After baling bean straw and then cornstalks for 8 hours a day each time it makes your leg tired.
 
Not bad,no. Mine's a Series 3. I don't know if that matters or not. I can tell you,in this one,there's a rod with a coil spring slid over it on the back side of the pedal up under the dash. I had to take it apart one time to put a new bushing in it because it was rubbing the side of the lower dash. That spring is tight! Two of us had one heck of a time getting that thing back together. The pedal might work easier in one if that spring was cut off shorter so there wasn't so much pressure there,I don't know.
 
That spring under the dash is an assist spring. When the pedal is pushed down just past the point of throwout bearing contact, it begins to help push the pedal down. Cutting it will make it harder to push rather than easier. Some of them are mighty powerful and must be restrained to install them. Jim
 
Ya,we had to put it in the vise,push down and clamp a pair of needle nose vice grips on it to get it compressed so we could get it back in.
 
I might have to mention that to my cousins. I think their 135 is a 1978 model. You might be correct, they may have improved something on the Series 3. I know running a round baler for 8 hours my leg gets tired lol.
 
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