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Another broken bolt removal story...

B

Bob

Well-known Member
<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Broken1_zpsrltz8jvt.jpg">

427 BBC, lower starter bolt is broken off recessed in the bellhousing adapter plate.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Broken2_zpsd3tcf1rd.jpg">

Made a drill bit guide in the lathe to fit in the adapter plate and chucked up a LH drill bit.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/Broken3_zpsdgsejmhg.jpg">

The bit caught the broken section of bolt and snapped, but still caught enough to unscrew the broken piece.

Thankfully!
 
I make my own left hand bits. Just re-sharpen it that way. One problem they have is that they want to loosen up a keyless chuck. Otherwise, they work very well.
 
Here's the one I was dealing with yesterday that I posted about on the restoration forum. They were in there pretty good. I welded washers to them. One was flush,the other three were recessed a thread or two.
a243664.jpg

a243665.jpg
 
I've got a Snap On bolt removal set that has 4 sizes of left handed bits and the matching E-Z Outs for that size hole.
 
You can get LH bits at any auto parts store. I had a five piece set from Carquest. I didn't like them because they made over sized holes. If I drilled a 3/16 hole. It would be too large for a 3/16 straight flute extractor.
 
I'm surprised no one commented on the drill bit guide. I made that 'cause I really didn't expect the broken piece to unscrew, and I wanted to get the hole centered in the broken bolt so I could continue with progressively larger bits 'til only the threads were left, then "pick" them out. But I got lucky and the bit caught and the piece unscrewed, making that plan uneeded.
 
We have an older welder here in Texas that is a legend on bolt removal. Mechanics from all around call him for broken bolts and studs. Seen him weld nuts on them when broken off deep into hole. Says he uses a stout rod and a steady hand. He never gives up, one of his favorite sayings is "If I can't fix it, when I'm through, it can't be fixed". He always fixes it. Locals say the only thing he can't weld is "a broken heart or the crack of dawn".
 
I second the idea of buying a lottery ticket. You snapped the bit and still got the bolt out. Why can't I be that lucky! LOL A bolt in an oily area is less likely to rust tight but it can still be a bugger.
 
I thought the bushing was a good idea. I've use the same idea when trying to remove a bolt from a mower spindle.
 
I've found that if you can get the remains of the bolt clean,get the rod straight down in the hole,hold it steady and let it pile up,the slag will go to the outside and won't stick to the threads. Just let it fill up to the surface with a washer over it,make a few swirls around the inside of the washer and you've got it.
 
I suspect the starter bolts worked loose until that one snapped, may have be too short to begin with, but, as the rest of the bolt was long gone, we will never know. This is the truck's first trip to my shop.
 
It's a Harbor Freight (GASP/GROAN) right-angle/close quarters drill. Actually works well, and I've used it quite a bit.
 
I should have commented on the guide too. It's a good idea. I should make a few in the common sizes just to have handy.
 
(quoted from post at 23:51:47 11/24/16) When I have asked at stores about left hand bits, they look at me like I have two heads or some thing . I'll find some one day .
Click to expand...

All Ace hardware stores have them.
 
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