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Trailer

Hobo,NC

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member
Location
Sanford, NC
Used my new trailer today I never had much of a problem with my other trailer lifting the rear of the truck off the ground when loading/unloading because it was so low to the ground. Looking for ideas to add some supports to the rear. Yes I can tote four 4X4's I already tote two.

new%20car%20trailer%20010_zps7ithyihs.jpg
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The raps are HEAVY :evil: I am gonna miss the old trailer most of the time I did not have to pull the ramps out.
 
The trailer I use has the same issue, I just place a few wood blocks in the rear center of the trailer and leave a few inches for clearance to remove when loaded. chris
 
my ramps attach to the rear when the trailer drops 2 inches they hit the ground. I also carry chocks nothing like going for a
trailer ride.
 
Take the top half of an old pair of jackstands, mount them
upside down under the rear so that they clear the ground by a
few inches. Use the holes that the adjusting pins went through
to mount them and to either move them up or pivot them up
out of the way for transport. Making your own is an option too.
Simple drop-pin jacks on the side work well.
 
How about fold down ramps, with "verticle legs" out of angle, with a cross member angle on the bottom that sits on the ground
 
(quoted from post at 18:59:37 11/19/16) Used my new trailer today I never had much of a problem with my other trailer lifting the rear of the truck off the ground when loading/unloading because it was so low to the ground. Looking for ideas to add some supports to the rear. Yes I can tote four 4X4's I already tote two.

new%20car%20trailer%20010_zps7ithyihs.jpg
[/URL][/img]

The raps are HEAVY :evil: I am gonna miss the old trailer most of the time I did not have to pull the ramps out.
Click to expand...

When I had a trailer like that I just put enough 2x6 and 4x6 blocks in the middle of the trailer that left about an inch gap. Just measure when the trailer is loaded.

If you want to get fancy put those tongue jacks on each side where you pull the pin and rotate them 90 degrees to store them.
 
I don't have a picture of it (but I can get one). Our trailer came with like 2 inch round tubes about 16 inches long with a foot welded on each end, that slide up and down inside another small tube welded onto the trailer frame. The long leg has a bunch of holes in it, and you just match up the hole in the leg with the hold in the holder depending on the ground, or load, etc. Works VERY well, we really like it!
 
You know, those jacks seem slick, but our old trailer had them an we hated em! What a pain to go up and down! I like our newer trailer with the tubes. FAST, easy, simply. Love it.
 
I have a friend with a trailor like that, he solved the problem with 2 swivel jacks mounted on rear side of trailor. He doesent crank them down just leaves 2 or so inchesto the ground.
like this
 
(quoted from post at 22:28:41 11/19/16) I don't have a picture of it (but I can get one). Our trailer came with like 2 inch round tubes about 16 inches long with a foot welded on each end, that slide up and down inside another small tube welded onto the trailer frame. The long leg has a bunch of holes in it, and you just match up the hole in the leg with the hold in the holder depending on the ground, or load, etc. Works VERY well, we really like it!
Click to expand...
Yes they do! That's what I was talking about when I said "drop-pin jacks".
Hobo has the skills to make his own once he decides on what he wants.

Make sure you keep good retainer clips in the pins of any option.
The jacks make a heck of a racket if they fall when they shouldn't!
Sparks too. Especially on the highway at night.
Which is why if one chooses to pivot them up out of the way,
they should pivot up toward the rear, not toward the front.
That's all I'm going to say about that experience! ;)
 

Hobo, if I had your skills, talent, equipment, and experience, (notice I don't include good looks), I would take a half an hour and convert those slide out ramps into fold down with legs. My first real trailer had ramps that just rode on the deck. What a pain wrestling with them compared to the fold downs that my trailers that I have now are equipped with. If you use the trailer once a week your time will be paid back in three months.
 
Just carry a heavy ratcheting type jack stand and stick it under center and ratchet it up and when done grab the handle and it collapses and throw it in toll box or back of tow vehicle. No need to over think it.
 
I have two blocks of wood, one is about 6"x5"x7", the other is about 3"x4"x5". There is usually
some combination of these that lets me block up the back of the trailer the way I need to.

As for heavy ramps. The ramps that came with my trailer weighed about 75-80 Lbs ea. I made wood
ramps out of 2x4"s on edge with spacers between the 2x4s. A steel angle on the top to hook over
the ledge on the back of the trailer. Threaded rod and spacers in 3 places hold them together.
Weight 40 lbs ea. Much easier to handle and so far not a hint of not being good enough.
 
Some of the newer trailers have the axles set too far forward to load correctly but it keeps from having too much tongue weight when loaded and most of the newer trucks are lighter in the rear end.
 
I have the fold up ramps with spring assist and a kid can lift them with ease and they have the legs that will set down on ground.
a243220.jpg
 
Forgot to mention a few things.
One - nice looking trailer.
Two - those ramps get heavier every year and later in the day.
Three - the "good clips" advice applies to slide out ramps too.
Nearly lost one out of my car hauler once and it had drop in
pins with the clips on the bottom. I saw it in my side view
mirror sticking out before it actually fell out on the ground.
I had to make a pin and put a "good clip" in the one I made.

Fold down ramps with built on stands are nice most of the time.
I sure wouldn't add any weight to to the ramps if I had to lift and
store them though. Even if they would fit in the storage spot.
Mine would not have fit where they slid into the side with any additions.
 
Have a set of some similar to the ones in the link. They work great, Weld the receiver on the side of the trailer frame and pin the jacks. They swivel and are removable. Especially good for uneven ground.
Jacks
 
I used the square tubing with holes in it.
attached a 'foot' to the bottom.
dropped them in/thru the rear stake pockets.(or add a couple more pockets)
pins thru the holes to adjust the up or down.
no welding on the trailer.
when up, they also help you see the back of the trailer when empty and backing up.
cheap..worked good...sold the trailer...kept them for the next one.
 
When I got my trailer, it had 2 ramps to use and I did slide a front wheel of a Farmall A off the ramp with the rear wheels on the trailer. It was very scary for a while. So I replaced the ramps with a ramp that goes all the way across the trailer. I made it in 2 pieces and put 4 springs {coil type} on the round bar that attaches to the trailer. No more missed ramps now. They are a little heavy because I made them 5 feet long, but I can lift them okay and I'm getting old.
 
HOBO,
If you use supports in stake pockets, you may have a problem getting them out once loaded.

Using blocks of wood, you can pull forward and they will come out.

You could attach jacks on each corner,like used on the tongue, use jacks that turn out of the way when not in use.

Because pull out ramps are not friendly to my back, I elect to go with an implement trailer that has ramps with spring assist to lift them up. My ramps have knees to prevent lifting the back of the truck when loading. However implement trailer are not as low to the ground as your car carrier.

I've seen trailers that look yours that require no ramps, they are tilt trailers. I asked a guy who has a tilt trailer and he said when empty the trailer bounces like a basket ball. My 14k implement trailer bounces too when empty.

My implement trailer is an 18+2, longer that what I was used too. I got in trouble a few times turning and swinging the back into guard rails and trees. Even removed the lights.

Be careful turning with your new trailer. It looks like there is a lot sticking out behind the rear wheels.

geo
 
I bought a hydraulic tilt bed trailer a few years ago,great to not have to deal with ramps.Plus its nice to be able to drag things like plows and disk harrows on with the winch
when there is no loader tractor at an auction.
 
Trouble with that is if you can't get the pins out after loading to raise the stands. Have to leave a gap. I use a 10" x 8" block, drive ahead after loaded and pick up the block.
 
I don't have a picture either but I have this same setup on my trailer. I cut two pieces of 1 1/2" white PVC pipe, three foot long and stuck them in the smaller pipe. When the "stands" are raised I can see the PVC pipe over the bed of my pickup. Comes in handy when backing up as the newer pickups sit so high off the ground.
 
Never had that happen. There are like 6 holes, just pick the one that is about 2 or 3 inches off the ground, load it up, then they are like 1/2 or 1 inch off the ground, and you can raise the legs. IF you pick the hole that has the feet 1/2 inch off the ground or so, then yes you will have troubles, and I HAVE done that before! Just have to get used to the trailer, and know which ones to use. I use the same ones over and over, every time, and they are just perfect in my opinion! ;)
 
If you pull a trailer you carry various size blocks along. When I had travel trailers I had to clean out the compartment, it was like they multiplied in there.
 
(quoted from post at 21:32:58 11/21/16) If you pull a trailer you carry various size blocks along. When I had travel trailers I had to clean out the compartment, it was like they multiplied in there.
Click to expand...

I carried a LOT of blocks on ours. We used to take it to a lot of county fairs when the kids were showing in 4H. At one fair the area for campers was on a steep hill. :)
 
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