Farmall 706 diesel 24volt starting?

Can i wire my two 12 volt batteries to 24 volt to the starter of my 706? Basically, could the starter handle 24 volt starting? I'm not talking about the dash gages and lights and utilities like that, i can
wire them 12 volt separately. I'm just curious if the starter would run 24volt without burning up. no, i don't have no problems, everything fine, but i just want to run 24volt
 
COnverting everything to 24 volt is reasonable. People with 24volt John Deere tractors know the nightmare the complexity of a dual system causes. They routinely convert back to 12v and purchase a 12v compatible starter. Not best. Jim
 
How about 2 12's parallel, individual cables to the starter, double the amp's. Had a 560 diesel this way with low priced batt's and it started like a champ in the cold
 
Common fix on some trucks was to fit a "series-parallel" solenoid. Kept the 12v charging and lighting system, but gave 24v for the starting.
Made a huge difference on some trucks as they would grind away slowly on 12v and slow to start. But on 24v they would spin over quickly and start straight up.
It's a good system. Got the idea from Kenworth trucks.
Rx
 
(quoted from post at 14:23:35 11/18/16) Common fix on some trucks was to fit a "series-parallel" solenoid. Kept the 12v charging and lighting system, but gave 24v for the starting.
Made a huge difference on some trucks as they would grind away slowly on 12v and slow to start. But on 24v they would spin over quickly and start straight up.
It's a good system. Got the idea from Kenworth trucks.
Rx

I cannot even count how many junk SP switches I have replaced over the years!!!
 
I would just temporarily hook starter to 24 volts and see how it responds. I would be more worried about the starter solenoid than the starter. I have hooked some miserable 460's to 18 volts to get them started when they could not be moved to pull them.
I think the series parallel switch would be the least problematic for the charging and rest of the system. John Deere used 24 volt starting, 24 volt charging and 12 volt accessory operation. They of course used the insulated ground starter system so everything was like they say, bassackwards.
 
Years ago, I remember seeing in JC Whitney a special solenoid that would connect two 12v batteries together for starting, and then go back to 12 volts for running. The vehicle alternator would then charge both batteries.

Did a quick Internet search, but didn't immediately find anything that is made like this today. However you may want to check with a NAPA dealer to see if they have something like this in their catalog.
 
I've done it to get a dead one going before. It did what I needed it to do. I don't know how it would handle it long term. Sam
 
I have used series parallel switches, they are inexpensive and work well, I do not understand the resistance to them from the patrons here.
 
NO , You have a problem with starting then you have other problems other then the starter . If it is a D282 then you have a glow plug issue , a Pump issue , and injector issue , or it is just plum wore out and needs a rebuild . Now yor starter my not be turning as fast as it should due to the bushing being wore out or the brushes short . when was the last time anybody adjusted the valves , OH your suppose to ADJUST THE VALVES YEP ya are and you do not know how many engines i have worked on that the valve cover has never been off and you could throw a cat between the rocker arm and the end of the valve stem .
 
Okay, thanks. No, there is nothing wrong with my starting in my 706 d282, infact it fires right up. i hold glow plugs for 15 seconds, and crank motor and it only take like 4 seconds of cranking to fire up. but it gets to be down to 30 degrees F* here so even with the thinest engine oil, block heater plugged in, and my glow plugs, i could really use 24 volt, if it didn't burn my starter up. but on a 40 degree F* day, it will dire right up. like i said in my question, there are no problems. just curious if i won't hurt the starter. i know how to wire everything up, but i just don't know the starters limits. thanks guys.
 
Starter motors are very low resistance series wound motors. They are usually way less than one ohm from input to ground. If allowed to run free on 24 it will probably overspeed and fail. if cranking it will work and spin it faster. They all have a duty cycle 15 seconds on and a minute off. The drive pinion and over running clutch are going to take it in the shorts. I feel that a 1000 watt timed block heater will do what you want with less cost and less stress on the starter motor. Jim
 
It looks like only a couple of responders attempted to give you an answer to what you wanted to know.

To simplify your question, if just for kicks and giggles, you put 24V to a 12v starter, will the starter handle it? I'm sure the starter manufacturer knows how much it will handle. Lots of guys, including me, run a 6V starter on 12V and get away with it.

Is there a multiplication factor where 12V to 24V gives the starter let's say four times the torque where 6V to 12V gives the starter only twice the torque. Or does 12 to 24 have the same effect as 6 to 12?

Can the windings in a 6V starter stand running on 12 volts better than the windings in a 12V starter running on 24 volts ?
 
Hello Farmall706guy,

30* F.? That's not cold! Batteries capacity are at rated zero degrees F. DC motors usually have no problems with higher voltages, espacially when the higher voltage is relatively a short time event,

Guido.
 

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