9n wont start

hwcarrico

New User
i recently purchased a 9n ford, it had a new 12v conversion a new governor on it when I got it, it ran when I got it but took forever to get it to start then it just wouldn't start at all, I went ahead and replaced carb and put a new radiator and water pump while it was apart, i checked for spark on all plugs and it has it, I pulled plug at bottom of carb and good fuel flow for awhile, I bypassed ballast resistor and it fires but wont run, hook up resistor and just turns over, does anyone have any suggestions
 
#1 the spark needs to be a good blue/white and jump a 1/4 inch gap at all 4 plugs.
#2 when you pull the carb drain plug you need a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in under 3 minutes.
#3 if you pull the spark plugs are they wet?? If wet they are gas fouled and will not fire because of that. Or maybe they need to be replaced since they do go bad over time. I now used NGK3112 plugs in my fords
#4 how is the compression?? If it is under 90PSI they do not run well if at all
 
(quoted from post at 16:09:55 11/09/16) i recently purchased a 9n ford, it had a new 12v conversion a new governor on it when I got it, it ran when I got it but took forever to get it to start then it just wouldn't start at all, I went ahead and replaced carb and put a new radiator and water pump while it was apart, i checked for spark on all plugs and it has it, I pulled plug at bottom of carb and good fuel flow for awhile, I bypassed ballast resistor and it fires but wont run, hook up resistor and just turns over, does anyone have any suggestions

Like young fella Old says, take a spark plug reading, see if perhaps you just need to just hold the choke closed a little longer.
 
(quoted from post at 16:09:55 11/09/16) i recently purchased a 9n ford, it had a new 12v conversion a new governor on it when I got it, it ran when I got it but took forever to get it to start then it just wouldn't start at all, I went ahead and replaced carb and put a new radiator and water pump while it was apart, i checked for spark on all plugs and it has it, I pulled plug at bottom of carb and good fuel flow for awhile, I bypassed ballast resistor and it fires but wont run, hook up resistor and just turns over, does anyone have any suggestions

Like young fella Old says, take a spark plug reading, see if perhaps you just need to just hold the choke closed a little longer.
 
ill purchase new plugs, I pulled the old ones and they are dry, I will give that a try and see where I'm at then, thanks for the replies, ill post on it after get the plugs
 
I'd stop throwing parts at it and do some troubleshooting.

First and easiest is to make sure you have good quality spark.
The front mount Fords are notorious for having cheap points
installed (TSC, etc) that fail very early. You need good spark.

"The old plugs are dry" - they should be.
I take dry to mean no gas and not covered with oil.
What do they look like? Black with soot? Burnt? White?
Do they all look the same?

Take the air cleaner tube off the carb and use your hand to
cover the carb throat instead of using the choke. Expect your
hand to get sucked to the carb and to get gas on your hand.
Does it have good suction? Does it fire then?

Have you checked compression or tried pull starting it?
There are lots of things to check that are free.

One other thought, you said you replaced the carb.
What did you replace it with? A known running one or an
aftermarket new one? The aftermarket carbs do not come
pre-adjusted and ready to run. They are meant to be put on
an already running tractor and adjusted by the operator.
 
9N should have original ballast resistor on back side of dash.

Since it has been converted to 12 volts check to see it it has an additional ceramic resistor in the line from from switch through original resistor to coil. If so, bypass it and see if it starts better but do not run very long.

If it starts better check resistance of coil from input to coil spring contact. If about 1.5 ohms you need extra resistor, if about 3 ohms get rid of extra resistor.

From either of above check points to output (flat spring tab of coil) should be about 6500 ohms.
 


If, after a little cranking with no start, the plugs are still dry, you have a fuel problem.
 

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