Oil plugs

dhermesc · Nov 3, 2016

My son has a 1990 Ford Bronco that had the engine (351W) replaced in 2008 that now has 30K on it. First time I removed the oil plug last fall I could tell it had been cross threaded. Put it back in and it leaked for a couple weeks before I bought a "self threading" replacement plug with a rubber washer. Sealed well and didn't have any issues. Before we changed the oil on Sunday we noticed the plug had started to seep a little. After the oil change its now dripping making a mess where ever its parked. Would a new rubber washer fix the this (and a new rubber washer at every oil change)?

Any other suggestions on how to fix this short of lifting the engine and replacing the oil pan? Ticks me off that with that few of miles on the engine someone had already ruined the oil plug.

Michael Soldan · Nov 3, 2016

A friend had this happen to him. The garage was going to pull the pan etc so he suggested they ream out the plug hole and then weld a big nut the size of a new oil plug right onto the pan. It worked very well and was a cheap and easy fix.

Mike M · Nov 3, 2016

I'd check into an oversized drain plug and retap the threads for it to fit. I think the plugs made for this are self tapping.

JK2 · Nov 3, 2016

Dorman as well as others make an expanding rubber plug just for that. I'll try to add a link to one.
One on Amazon

D beatty · Nov 3, 2016

Try using a heavy O ring that fits that plug and replace the O ring every time you change oil.

Hank ABAB · Nov 3, 2016

dhermesc,

I had this problem on a Ford 302 engine in a van.
The self-tapping drain plug did not work.

Turned out that the tab that is spot-welded to the inside of the oil pan, was cracked.
This is the threaded part that the drain plug screws into.

The only cheap fix was to weld a threaded fitting to the bottom of the pan, and use a plug to fit that fitting.
I used a 110 volt flux-cored wire feed welder to do that; I did not remove the oil pan.

If this is what you might end up doing, be very careful.
I had a bottle of CO2 that I purged the engine with first, and during the whole welding process.

If you don't do something like this, you could blow out every gasket/seal in the engine.
It worked fine, and still does not leak.

The oil pan is very thin, so do very short welds.
........... and this welding is all done in the overhead position, so maybe practice on something similar first, if you are not a welder by trade.

I could not find a good picture to show this tab in the oil pan that cracked, but this one will have to do.
Good luck.

Bob · Nov 3, 2016

IMHO, the very best sealing washer for an oil drain plug is a dowty washer, also known as a Sta-O-Seal.

<img src = "https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/M/3245.JPG">

If the plug is tightened even SNUG against them they simply don't leak.

Of course, they have to be replaced every now and then as they harden from heat over time.

hd6gtom · Nov 3, 2016

In our oil changing business we found this many times. Use the plug gasket Bob has posted. Keep in mind they make more than 1 size.

dhermesc · Nov 3, 2016

Who sells them?

Oil plugs

dhermesc

Well-known Member

Michael Soldan

Well-known Member

Mike M

Well-known Member

JK2

Member

D beatty

Well-known Member

Hank ABAB

Member

Bob

Well-known Member

hd6gtom

Well-known Member

dhermesc

Well-known Member

Similar threads