What are some methods for installing a seal with a spring in it? This is on a John Deere Gator 4x6 Diesel transaxle input shaft. The first one I put in I messed up. It leaked almost immediately and I found the spring wrapped around a sleeve upon disassembling it again. Sleeve is done.
- Thread starter JimS
- Start date
Pete in MD
Well-known Member
- Location
- Central Maryland
I'm not familiar with a Gator but it sounds like you're talking about a lip seal with a garter spring. If you don't have access to a set of bushing/seal drivers you can use a socket to drive the seal. It needs to be big enough to catch the outside wall of the seal and small enough to fit inside the bore the seal presses into. You can also use a piece of pipe if the seal has to pass over a long shaft before it seats.
NOT sure exactly what you've got going on, but I'll make a couple of observations.
Gently PRESSING a seal into place with the proper equipment isn't a bad plan.
If you have some sort of driver you're gonna whack with a hammer to shove it into position, it's common practice to pack the lip/garter spring area with heavy grease, to make it less likely the blows will cause the garter spring to go for a ride.
Gently PRESSING a seal into place with the proper equipment isn't a bad plan.
If you have some sort of driver you're gonna whack with a hammer to shove it into position, it's common practice to pack the lip/garter spring area with heavy grease, to make it less likely the blows will cause the garter spring to go for a ride.
Many times you have to invent. I think the overall idea is lube everything up good so it slides, get some sort of bushing / socket / sleeve / pipe / pusher that fits good, fits all around securely on all edges, and either press into place, gently, or tap-tap-tap in squarely. SQUARELY!
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I agree on pressing in when you can.
Pressing helps to keep the installation vertical.
Plunger should be sized to emphasize or at least cause equal pressure on the OD of the seal.
On outboard motors, they recommend a thread locker for installing a seal. 2 events here: 1. The locker provides initial lubrication for the insertion. 2. It provides a film to seal any tiny imperfections in the mating surfaces. Auto parts stores carry it . Blue is what I use for everything. The Mercury OB manual recommends red. Well fine. Red is for permanent applications. If that suits you ok. But if you plan on keeping it for a long time, which most of us do, then at some later date you will be back in with another seal and blue will be much more friendly in cooperating with the change.
Pressing helps to keep the installation vertical.
Plunger should be sized to emphasize or at least cause equal pressure on the OD of the seal.
On outboard motors, they recommend a thread locker for installing a seal. 2 events here: 1. The locker provides initial lubrication for the insertion. 2. It provides a film to seal any tiny imperfections in the mating surfaces. Auto parts stores carry it . Blue is what I use for everything. The Mercury OB manual recommends red. Well fine. Red is for permanent applications. If that suits you ok. But if you plan on keeping it for a long time, which most of us do, then at some later date you will be back in with another seal and blue will be much more friendly in cooperating with the change.
I have had the spring fall of from trying to drive seals in. Putting grease around the spring may help. Best to press in some way if you can. If the shaft isn't really smooth and shinny or has a keyway with sharp edges I put one carefully applied layer of electrical tape over the shaft to make it smooth so you don't nick the feather edge of the seal. Remove tape after seal is in. Lube shaft or tape with a little oil so seal slides in easy. Loctite or some other sealer is fine for the outside of the seal although probably not necessary. It may lube the seal and make it press in easier.
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