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What's the collected wisdom on buying a JD 2010?

D

docmirror

Well-known Member
Good tires, power steering, new seat, good belt, hyd working well, has new stuff in the PTO output. Shifts and drives fine. Looks pretty bad, lots of scrapes and scratches, no rust I can see. It's LP gas and has the weird shuttle kind of selector shifting where it has ranges and gears within the range. Asking $2000 I was gonna offer $1600. Used for grading, grubbing, raking, and box blade high desert. I can haul it on my trailer which is nice.

What say you folks? I have an 8N that won't do the job, but I think this will.
 
That Deere and the 1010 models have been considered the worst JDs ever. Engine design was one issue with the cylinder block and components subject to
failure, I would steer way clear. Jim
 
Run do not walk away form it. The J-D 1010 ans 2010 are okay tractor till you need to repair something and then they can be money pit big time. Some parts are very hard to find and when and if you do they cost an arm and leg.
 

I was going to say run, run away until seeing LP. While the tractor will never be worth anything as a collectable or for being useable . It would make a neat and unique addition to a tractor collection.
 
I think you won't be using it very hard up on the mountain, so it should last a long time.
You got propane up there? Tank got a wet tube?

1600-1800 bucks and you get 3 or 4 years out of it, you won't lose to much. Should be done with the runway by then.

I'd go for it.
 
Might be low production numbers and if so these are gaining with collectors of new generation models.
Otherwise buyer beware as parts can be hard to locate and expensive at that.
 
(quoted from post at 12:42:25 10/25/16) I think you won't be using it very hard up on the mountain, so it should last a long time.
You got propane up there? Tank got a wet tube?

1600-1800 bucks and you get 3 or 4 years out of it, you won't lose to much. Should be done with the runway by then.

I'd go for it.
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I got lots of propane up there, and a make-up fill hose with fitting. Tank doesn't have a wet tube, but I think I recall seeing a regular LP gas gauge on it.

Sounds like this is a one-time-shot kind of tractor, but it's been around and working since 1962. hard to pass up if the clutch and tires are good. Wonder if the parts are worth anything if the enine goes Tango Uniform?
 
After cutting the runway, I'll just use it to grade, and move snow around. Nothing heavy.

So, the other option is even stranger. There's a guy with an antique Meili Blumberg model 10 road grader. It's built under a Farmall M tractor with the super low range gears, and a 10' blade. The downside is no 3 point, so I can't attach a grubber unless I make one for the existing blade. I can get that for $1600, and it'll do the grading job, but almost nothing else. I think using a tractor with a box blade, should do it, but the road grader will also fit on my trailer so that's a different way to go.
 
I got lots of propane up there, and a make-up fill hose with fitting. Tank doesn't have a wet tube, but I think I recall seeing a regular LP gas gauge on it.

Sounds like this is a one-time-shot kind of tractor, but it's been around and working since 1962. hard to pass up if the clutch and tires are good. Wonder if the parts are worth anything if the enine goes Tango Uniform?
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Without a wet tube, the make-up fill hose doesn't work.
 
(quoted from post at 15:07:01 10/25/16)
I'd take a running/driving 2010 LPG tractor with live hyd's & pto for $2000 any day over a Ford 8N
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I already got the 8N, but it won't grub the creosote bush roots at 8000' elevation.

but - was thinking the same thing.

We settled on $1750, I put a chisel plow on it with 3 tines, and it pulled ok at 1000' elevation, so I think I'm gonna do the deal.
 
I have no idea where everybody gets that idea. That engine IS a VERY good engine, the deck plates cause no problems. That engine is what was the majer power plant for all the 40 series combines and probably 2/3 of the 45 series combines , It was in all 45 from 62 up into late 60's when they went up to the 180 engine in power. I know I run the 45's on thousands of acres with no problems but they were not on LP, but gas and that LP is the part about the engines I don't know about. To me the big downside to a 2010 is that stupid shifter placement and operation.
 
there are better tractors out there ,,. but a 2010 is a major Leap and a big bound over a 8n ,,,.. yet my granpas on both sides luved their little fords ,,.. probably because there was nuthin else available and they could adapt their horse drawn toys easily ,,.
 
Here is my take on the 2010. Just don't do it. My grandfather bought a 65 model off of a neighbor in 68. It is still around, and I don't know why. It is underpowered, the brakes are crappy even when serviced properly. The pto design is a little lacking and they hydraulics are not very good compared to say a 2510, or 3010. The gas motor is gutless in this application The only reason that tractor is still around is nobody wants to be the one that sells it. Nobody likes driving it myself, my uncles, or my son. He would rather rake or tedd with my 430W with no power steeting. Just not one of deeres better ideas. IF you want a green tractor I would reccomend a 1020, 2020, or even a 2510. It might be an upgrade over an 8N, but if something breaks its going to cost a lost more to repair than the 8n.
 
Understood there are better tractors, but the guy has a 2010, and that's what's for sale. I guess I can keep hunting, or maybe go with that Farmall M with the Meili grader. The issue with that is that it won't do any grubbing and I need to get the creosote roots out first before I grade.

I'm not a green, or red, or blue aficionado but care more about power and low service costs at this point. As with all things, a large infusion of cash would solve this problem! Budget be damned, full speed ahead. :D
 
A box blade will not level out enough for a runway, even a grader with a long wheelbase you will have to work hard with a transit to find all high spots to get rid of them, you don't want a high spot to bounce you off course and flip as you land. A tractor with a blade will not get rid of low and high spots, just smooth out the surface but you would still have hills and valleys when you get done. I have no idea what you are wanting to use to grub so have no idea there except a brush rake on a dozer. Now I also do not know how that grader is mounted to rear of the M but they do make aftermarket 3 point hitches for them and if you could mount a hitch you would be way better than any tractor to go that way as you will find out they will not do what you need to do. The M and the 3010 will be about equal in power.. Use a long chain to pull the stuff and the length of the grader will help keep the front end on the ground as with that Deere you would probably be using that chain to pull the stuff and very likely to tip tractor over backward onto YOU.
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:10 10/25/16) Understood there are better tractors, but the guy has a 2010, and that's what's for sale. I guess I can keep hunting, or maybe go with that Farmall M with the Meili grader. The issue with that is that it won't do any grubbing and I need to get the creosote roots out first before I grade.

I'm not a green, or red, or blue aficionado but care more about power and low service costs at this point. As with all things, a large infusion of cash would solve this problem! Budget be damned, full speed ahead. :D
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Go find a used aftermarket 3 point, any brand will do as it's a grader, not a tractor and fab up mounts on the back of the grader. The you can grub with it too.

Rick
 
Go find a used aftermarket 3 point, any brand will do as it's a grader, not a tractor and fab up mounts on the back of the grader. The you can grub with it too.

Rick
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I was considering this as well. Get the grader, and mount a three point on back for any kind of equip. Not sure if the Farmall M will have enough power to grub at 8000' but don't know that the JD 2010 will do it either. It's a crap shoot, and I'll just have to go test one application. The JD 2010 would be much easier to sell if it doesn't do the job than the MB power grader.

This is a pic of the one I'm looking at, but without the cab.

http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/Content.aspx?dsNav=N:4294963828-4294955414&dsRecordDetails=R:IM59989
 
(quoted from post at 06:45:27 10/26/16) A box blade will not level out enough for a runway, even a grader with a long wheelbase you will have to work hard with a transit to find all high spots to get rid of them, you don't want a high spot to bounce you off course and flip as you land. A tractor with a blade will not get rid of low and high spots, just smooth out the surface but you would still have hills and valleys when you get done. I have no idea what you are wanting to use to grub so have no idea there except a brush rake on a dozer. Now I also do not know how that grader is mounted to rear of the M but they do make aftermarket 3 point hitches for them and if you could mount a hitch you would be way better than any tractor to go that way as you will find out they will not do what you need to do. The M and the 3010 will be about equal in power.. Use a long chain to pull the stuff and the length of the grader will help keep the front end on the ground as with that Deere you would probably be using that chain to pull the stuff and very likely to tip tractor over backward onto YOU.
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Not sure if you've flown light gen aviation planes, but they will handle modest hills and valleys if the surface is smooth. I land on graded gravel pretty often and it's not always smooth. However, I get your point about keeping the bumps out with the grader. The JD seller also has a ROPS for a different tractor that he thinks will fit on the 2010 and is asking $300 for it. I think I would get the ROPS if I get the tractor.
 


I own and rebuilt a 1010. No more expensive or hard to find parts for than anything else. Not a powerhouse, but not a dog either. No the greatest tractor, not the worst by far.
 
Never been in a plane but from just the rockeyness on some roads the way it bounces the car around I would not want to bounce a plane around like that. You hit those spots in the road with the car and think you are going one way and you are imediatly going the other. That is what I am basing my thoughts on. And if you in landing have one of the two main wheels hit a high spot and the other not I would think that wheel that hit the high spot would want to turn the plane in that direction. Same principable as hitting an object with the side of a piece of machinery, want to flip the piece to that side.
 
You need the grader so if you would find out it does not have enough power just replace the M engine with a 450 Farmall engine half again as much power. And for grading use I would think they would have put in an extra low gear and that would give you more pulling power than a standard M.
 
Just a little update. I went out and drove the 2010 for a while, got it warmed up, tested all 8 gears and all the reverse. It's all working fine so I'm going to put the ROPS on it and buy it. I'll be 2100 all in for the deal. He's selling me a chisel plow for $200 with moveable tines so I'll just go give this a try.

It's not pretty, and it's not clean but has near new rear tires, the clutch is very good, and doesn't leak much. I can't say I'll be disappointed if it doesn't work out, but for this price compared to the fee of having it graded I'll give it a try.

the shifter is rather bizarre, but I'll get used to it. I suspect once I get the plow blade in the ground, the trans in 2nd gear, and the power set right, it's going to be hours of slogging along ripping out the scrub, then I'll go over it with a landscape rake and burn off the junk. After that I can worry about getting the bumps out of it, and smoothing some with a grader.
 
For $2100, it doesn't sound like you were hurt on the deal. New tires is a good part of that price, and it will sell pretty easy here in the SAN Luis Valley if it doesn't work out. All that and almost twice the power and heft of your 8N.
 
(quoted from post at 08:31:57 10/27/16)

I own and rebuilt a 1010. No more expensive or hard to find parts for than anything else. Not a powerhouse, but not a dog either. No the greatest tractor, not the worst by far.
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A gas 1010 is a long way from any 2010. Don't mix them up.
 
Another update for anyone that cares. I've been messing with the 2010 for a few weeks. So far no grubbing with it, just some leveling and a few odd pulling jobs.

Aside from the ridiculous shifting mechanism, it's doing an admirable job so far. I have a leak that's getting worse under the center front, and afraid it might be the front main seal. If not that, something with the PS stuff.

Next month I'm going to dig into the shifting linkage and replace a few bushings and tighten it up then lube it so the shifting isn't so shifty. I like the seat, and steering is super nice. Good brakes too. Overall I'm very happy. I didn't get the ROPS put on. I'll be trying it out with the chisel plow and grubbing next month.
 
Nice to hear back on the unit.
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