How does everyone sharpen the brush hog blades

I have a 10 JD mx10 brush hog mower. How does everyone sharpen their blades. It seems everyone has a different way of doing it. Trying
to find a way that works for me.
Thanks, Al Shaulis
NE Pa.
 
We have a fifteen foot batwing. Sharpen the fold up wings with a four and a half inch angle grinder standing up and lay on the ground to sharpen the center blades.
 
On my 6 ft woods I get underneath while the mower is on the trailer, using my 4 I/2 inch grinder. I have plenty of room that way. About every third time I remove the blades, and hit them with my large grinder. Stan
 
It is easy to remove the blades on my Woods, so I just take them off and hold in vice and grind with a 9 inch Milwaukee 15 amp angle grinder. I seldom sharpen my 10 foot Howse because the blades take more time to remove
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:29 09/10/16) I have a 10 JD mx10 brush hog mower. How does everyone sharpen their blades. It seems everyone has a different way of doing it. Trying
to find a way that works for me.
Thanks, Al Shaulis
NE Pa.

I just run mine for around 300 hours on my Bush Hog 3008 and then put on a new set...not worth messing around sharpening them when I can put on new ones for around $150. New ones cut better, stay sharp longer and use less fuel. $150 for doing $20k in work is cheap! P.S. if anyone wants some never sharpened blades let me know....
 
If they need sharpened they need thrown away that is a strong but true statement the outer 1 inch does all the cutting when it's worn away the good is gone.
 
Last time we sharpened them on the 6ft mower, had enough man power to just flip it over, sharpened them with the 4 1/2 hand grinder, still on the mower.

Took a while, but they had been neglected for a long time. Next time hope they don't get that bad!
 
Unhook from tractor, flip it over with front end loader, wedge a 3 ft 2x4 between blade and side to keep the blade stationary, grind with weapon of choice, usually 4 1/2" grinder, takes about 30 minutes and cost about $1.79.
 
I use a 4&1/2" angle grinder with an 80 grit sanding disc rather than a stone. Also do a double angle cut, repair original angle and dress the cutting edge with a slightly steeper bevel. Seems to stay sharper longer.
 
I would agree with you on that for any mower blade. Seems once that corner is gone they don't work right again and it looses suction cause the blade is narrower or the upsweep is wearing away by then.
 
In the 23 years I've owned this Farm King six footer I can only remember taking the blades off once to sharpen them. I could not see that it made much difference for the work involved in removing them. Seems to cut just fine for my needs and I have not even looked at them in years. No doubt the blades are well rounded from hitting a few rocks and dirt piles but it cuts just fine for the few acres I have to do.
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4 and 1/2 inch angle grinder. I raise on 3 pt., put jack stands under for safety, and lay under and grind the top edge of blade. I use a block of wood to rest my head on and a block of wood, maybe a clamp, to block the blade. I don't believe it needs to be razor sharp, I grind until I develop at least an "edge" or "angle break" on what otherwise is a rounded blade. But then again I tend to travel where there are rocks so razor sharp is a waste of time. If I was assured I was just doing grass/weeds/small trees I would sharpen more to save power and make a nicer job.

On my Woods, there are shims to control up/down deflection. I noticed last time I need to shim one of the blades.

Well, I am not proud of it but my Woods has some pretty good gooves in the top metal plate of the brush hog because a stone deflected the blade up more than once. The blade also took out one of the box beam frame members underneath, again from a stone. I have to weld a patch into that box beam one of these days. Where I grow up in the Kettle Morrine of Wisconsin, we had/have rocks big time. And we have big stone piles. Paul
 
When sharpening blades the main thing is not to get them too hot while you are grinding on them. If you get the edge hot enough that the steel turns to a blue color after it cools some you just annealed it (made the steel softer). It'
 
A very dull blade works real good for killing the weed trees that tend to grow in places that do not get mowed often. I have 2 rear mowers one Bush Hog and a 50 year old Long.
 

I get the blade about centered in the discharge opening and clamp a 4x4 block between the blade and the bottom of the deck to hold it still and then go to work with a small grinder. :)
 

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