Ford-600

Need to separate a front and rear tractor half to replace a clutch on an Ford 600.

My plan is to get the front and rear up cement blocks/wood and use an engine hoist to pull engine away from the trans that is still hooked to the rear axle part of the machine. Is that the right approach? I did an old 960 before but it had "frame rails" of some sort between the trans and the pedestal.

I need to jack up each end of the tractor. OK to jack the center of the tractor in back to get a jack stand/block under each axle?

I then want to jack the front to put a block at the edge of the tran housing. I see two bolts on the bottom that I'll try not to over with the wood block. Not sure if those need to come out???

Can I jack the front of the tractor of the heavy gauge steel below the fan/water pump? It's in front of the oil pan, not sure what to call this piece but real heavy steel. I don't think it will bend. Other option would be to jack each fron axle...

thank in advance, Moday

Here is how you do it quickly and safely. First go to your local auto parts store and pick up a trailer jack. Then be sure that the 600 is on a smooth level surface, and with a carpenters level held at the bottom of the engine block, insure that it is level front to rear. If not put boards under the front tires to bring the front up to where it is level. It is very difficult to mate the rear up to the front if the rear is moving uphill as it is getting closer to the front. Next, you remove the left running board, and lean the trailer jack up against the round cover on the side of the rear housing where the PTO lever is. Now you sketch a plan for a bracket to attach your jack to the side of the tractor. You should be able to make this from two pieces of three inch angle stock. If you just drill holes and bolt it together you will be able to adapt it to other tractors. The bracket will mount onto the two studs that the running board bolts to plus the bottom one on that same round cover. Now you can jack the rear part just to where it takes a little weight. For the front you can lift under the oil pan. You won't hurt it. It is best to crib close up to it, then take the weight off with four fairly thin wedges. You want to have blocking that is a good six inches wider than the pan on each side. For extra security drive wedges in between the front axle and the front fame as well. You now have it secure with the Hobo NC non-patented tractor rear jack. Now you can do the normal disconnecting and unbolting, then roll the back away from the front. You can see that it will be next to impossible for it to fall from this method of support. We always roll the rear from the front because, larger tires roll more easily and the larger tires give you leverage to make it much easier. While replacing the clutch you will want to also renew your transmission input seal, clutch release bearing, and drive shaft pilot bearing.

Very good answer, it amazes me how many nolagable people their are on this site, and so willing to help without prase. Well to bad here some anyway. To all that help me and others thank you!!!!

If part of my plan is to pull the engine away from the tractor, would you still separate the front and back in the same process? I'm trying to tech my son about the cooling/fueling/lubrication system of the engine so this project may be more than just swapping a clutch. Hope to paint things up grey/red and make it look good. I will want tires/wheels off so I was thinking about getting it all up in the air and then engine hoist it away. Not sure if re-assembly will be an issue.

Showcrop,, loved your plan but I may have not made the whole project clear. I'm hoping for complete rework without tearing into trans or axle (Will redo brakes).
thanks, moday

Concrete blocks are not recommended for supporting weight, wood is a better idea. On my Farmall C I used allthread in the engine/transmission holes to keep things lined up and help hold it stable. Make sure to support the drawbar and the trans in case it would want to tip either way. Good luck.

It would be a good idea to buy an I-T FO-20 manual for it before you start working on it. It will fill in the blank that you will run into.

The way I do it is use 2 or more chain hoists to hold thing in place. I also use guide bolt when putting them back together. I.E. cut the heads off of at least 2 long bolts then you can use them to line things back up. I have a JD 1020 split in my shop right now hanging on 4 chain hoist o do an engine rebuild and clutch and a few other things

will add one more way. On JD 430 my backblade on the tractor or rotary mower hanging on 3 pt will pretty well balance out the back half, in fact I have had to lower implement to keep it from pointing up. I still use blocks under in case. I roll front half away. Block front axles so that it will not tip side to side. I put long blocking under floor jack, and block of wood to spread force, and jack under wood blokd on bottom of oil pan. Put jack on blocking so it will roll ,a wider board helps. with front jacked up level with back I pull front haf ahead with come a long hooked to tractor, pick up or whatever. Jack should roll with front end. I agree with using line up bolts to go back together, just make sure they are not too long so you can remove them after halves are together, I know from experience. My favorite way to split tractor is with hoist or front end loader, unfortunately when you are splitting your loader tractor that doesn't work.

(quoted from post at 10:43:25 09/06/16) If part of my plan is to pull the engine away from the tractor, would you still separate the front and back in the same process? I'm trying to tech my son about the cooling/fueling/lubrication system of the engine so this project may be more than just swapping a clutch. Hope to paint things up grey/red and make it look good. I will want tires/wheels off so I was thinking about getting it all up in the air and then engine hoist it away. Not sure if re-assembly will be an issue.

Showcrop,, loved your plan but I may have not made the whole project clear. I'm hoping for complete rework without tearing into trans or axle (Will redo brakes).
thanks, moday

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My answer was for pulling engine away from transmission, with no tearing into transmission or axle. Please read my description more carefully. Also with your son with you safety should be of even greater importance. you can always do the wheels after putting the engine back onto the transmission. Much safer than having many multiple parts in the air at one time.

You can go into different tractor repair shops all day long and you will rarely see engines or axles swinging on chains, it is done only for double splits. And factory splitting stands or similar are used. Workers comp is too expensive in large shops to do things slap dash, like you can do and get away with in a one man shop.

I will have to serch for a pix using the trailer jack on a Ford.

The last one I did on a MF

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My ford set up in this link

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=536891&highlight=trailer

I can tell ya its worth the trouble to rig up a trailer jack but not mandatory

found the pix

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I got carried away with the brackets just because I can and I moved it out so I could crank away with no interference :wink:

(quoted from post at 18:27:36 09/06/16) I will have to serch for a pix using the trailer jack on a Ford.

The last one I did on a MF

[/URL][/img]

My ford set up in this link

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=536891&highlight=trailer

I can tell ya its worth the trouble to rig up a trailer jack but not mandatory

found the pix

.

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I got carried away with the brackets just because I can and I moved it out so I could crank away with no interference :wink:

Click to expand...

I don't know if you have noticed but I have been promoting your jack ever since you posted it. It is great just for the safety let alone the convenience.

We always roll the back away from the front, it's hard to move the front around while keeping tires straight when the steering linkage is disconnected. Wedges between the axles and bolster then block up under the oil pan using a wedge on each side to make final adjustments.

I've used a large floor jack under the trans but now have a big truck transmission jack that works great.
I do like the trailer jack idea a lot, do you have a picture of it supporting the transmission and rear axle for doing clutch replacement.

All this info is great. I like the idea of backing away the rear of the tractor. Safety will be #1 and we'll move forward slowly. I need to check compression on the engine to determine how far this needs to go....

We live where the 600 is not required the winter months (Kubota for snow plowing); so we have a good window coming up to work on it.

What psi is considered acceptable on a Ford 600 132 ci before I need to be looking at a rings/sleeve clean up? It looks like a bit of blow-by on the breather side of the engine but maybe I won't have to go too far into the engine. I need to dig up my manuals but love this website for info. Thanks everyone!

Moday

I don't know if you have noticed but I have been promoting your jack ever since you posted it. It is great just for the safety let alone the convenience.[/quote]

Yes I have Its not my idea I read it somewhere are seen it maybe here. If I knew were I picked up on it that guy needs a cigar.

Its a good tip tho no mater were it came from...