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Input on building a bridge for my 135 to cross

D

ditchwitch

Well-known Member
I bought two 20 Foot I-beams yesterday so i can build a bridge across my creek so i can get my 135 over so i can work up in the woods. My question is do i need to anchor them into the ground and if so what would be a good easy way. Its not going to be a raised bridge its just going from flat ground to flat ground with the creek being about 5 feet below. I dont want to build a ramp on either end just want to just drive right over it from the yard. Each end will be about 5 foot onto each bank.
 

I would dig a place for a Footer at each end of the Beams, with a provision for the Beams to set in a Notch formed in the top of the footer..

You will most likely end up with needing to grade an approach to the bridge at each end..

What are you going to use for the Bridge Deck..??
 
Just 2x10 treated. all cross ways then 2 stripes side by side on top of that where the wheels on tractor will be . I was thinking just diging the dirt down to the top of the beam which the beams is about 12 with a 6 inch flange and just setting it in the dirt. I dont want to have to built an approach if i dont have to.
Could i dig it down like that and say put a 6x6 on each end in cement and bolt it to the beam . you think that would be secure enough??
 
one problem I see is without proper support the I beams will twist, and how are you attaching the deck? You might have been better off buying an old flat from a truck.
 
(quoted from post at 08:10:01 08/08/16) Just 2x10 treated. all cross ways then 2 stripes side by side on top of that where the wheels on tractor will be . I was thinking just diging the dirt down to the top of the beam which the beams is about 12 with a 6 inch flange and just setting it in the dirt. I dont want to have to built an approach if i dont have to.
Could i dig it down like that and say put a 6x6 on each end in cement and bolt it to the beam . you think that would be secure enough??
Click to expand...

It WILL settle and sink into the dirt. If you do it the way you describe, you will be retrieving that bridge from the creek in a few months.
 
You will need a concrete footing for the beams to sit on.

Also, how high does the creek get when it rains? Any trees, debris come down high enough to get caught under the bridge?
 
All depends on how fancy you want to get and how long you want it to last. I've seen chained log bridges just laying on the ground last for over 20 years with heavy trucks running over them. I would anchor the beams in concrete. Be sure to use ground contact treated lumber cause the regular stuff won't last. Around here you have to special order the ground contact lumber.
 
Saw a bridge in a southern state [ not saying ] that was a 1955 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup rolled over upside down and put in the creek, with the doors removed for the flow. planks across the top.
 
Ok, I can see what your saying about twisting. I was thinking about bolting 2x8 on inside of I-Beam then lag the boards to that or get some self tapping screws and bolt them to the top of the beam
 
How wide do you want it and how wide do you have the tractor wheels set? Cross planks will not have enough strength for tractor if you put beams wide enough to make a safe width of no less than 10', that is with the beams set at the end of the planks and if you set the beams in the wheel track then if you get to the side of them the ends of the planks will break off and then the tractor will roll into the creek. you need at least 4 beams so you can have one on each side with a 10' minimum width and one under each wheel track. At that you might if you get off the side of the ones under the wheel track and I say might not break through but that is questionable. So is your tractor loaded with fluid or loader or anything else that would make it heavier than a bare tractor. Me I would want 5 beams with a 12' total width at minimum for if something would distract you (bee sting) while crossing you would not jerk the wheel far enough to go over the side and roll it. And that would be not only the cross planks but lengthwise for the whole deck.
 
LOL, fbh44 , Now i will admit i am pretty much a redneck but i havent got that far yet to drown an old truck. LOL too funny
 
Its not going to be but around 7 to 8 foot wide. the beams will be placed at rear tire width. Its just a bare 135 it does have fluid in the rears. and will carry a brush hog across.
 
you will need footings for either end of the bridge. go to your local concrete dealer and buy a few ecology blocks, and bury them. set bridge on top of them. cheap and easy
 
I have seen a old highway trailer laid across a creek for a bridge like what you are doing, and some times two trailers side by side for extra width. No construction to this type of bridge ,just lay them across , and ready to use .Even seen a freight trailer with the end cut out used for cattle to cross, like a covered bridge. Fella just closed the doors on the one end to keep the cattle from crossing if he didn't want them on the other side , creek was fenced up to the bridge.
 
We going to assume the beams are strong enough to carry the weight.
Next you have to build a footer to keep the beams from sinking into the dirt.
These footers can be large rocks; railroad ties laid perpendicular to the beam ends; or a concrete slab.
Just something to distribute the weight over a larger area so you can get below your soil bearing weight.
Put the beams at your wheel settings so you run on top or very close to the beams with the weight.
Then top the beams with decking such as used on a trailer because your aim will not be perfect every time.
 
You will need at least some cross bracing to keep the beams standing straight. Won't take much, but without anything they will twist and flex too much. Sounds like you have plenty of beam. And yes, you do need a footing to set them on. An old railroad tie on each end would work good for that.
 
I don't know too much about this but, the bridges we made for ATVs were often found 100 yds downstream after a storm . If water ever rushes through the area the bridge should probably be anchored.
 
We just moved here last November. The creek stayed running even durning the drought last year. But when it did rain hard the creek did rise alot but it didnt get as high where the bridge will be
 
I know the power of water , i sure dont want to do this thing again. I figured i would ask for suggestions before i took on this project.
 
The creek did get pretty deep but it didn't get as high as to where the bridge will be. No debris to speek of just water. Like i said earlier we just moved here last Novemember . I don't know the creek all that well yet. But evidence from the sides of the creek and the creek banks its has got higher.
 
Jon when you say cross bracing do you mean something welded in between or can it be of wood. These 2 beams have holes drilled in them where i could bolt a L bracket to 6x6 or a 4x6 and have a bracket on each side. sure that would also keep it from twisting. In saying that would maybe 4 be enough. That would be one either 6x6 or 4x6 inside the web of the beam every 5 foot.
 
heres one i built in 1997, used and heavily creosoted power poles, 3 of them, laid down on a bed of gravel then covered with timbers. actually they are used crossarms, 8 footers. first photo is as built in 1997. the next is as dated. still solid used often.
a234075.jpg

a234076.jpg

a234077.jpg

a234081.jpg
 
Your bridge will carry your 135 just fine without footings for a few years. The way it sounds you won't use it much. With no footings it will settle into the ground on it's own without being driven over and if it settles the same in all four corners, fine but usually it doesn't happen that way. A bridge that moves around when you drive over it doesn't give you much of a sense of confidence. You could lay heavy creosoted planks under the ends to help with the settling but concrete pillars sunk in deep is the only way you can guarantee it will stay up straight and square. But again, maybe for your application going the concrete pillar way is too much money.

The people I harvest with have a 40' long by 12' wide plank bridge with no railings that we used to drive big combines over. It was scary sitting way up there in the combine cab looking way down into the creek below to say the least. Eventually one corner settled so when the front combine wheels went on the bridge the other end of the bridge would lift up a bit and stay up for awhile until the weight of the combine brought it back down. It was enough to make an atheist pray. We don't drive combines or trucks over it any more but it still is unsettling to me just driving a pickup on it.
 
Thats a great job. My creek is not that wide and i bought 2 steel beams i need to use for this project. If i had that ramp down like you have beside your bridge i wouldnt be building a bridge i would just drive through the creek
 
Something you can do with your tractor and a post hole auger. Dig 4 holes as deep as you can go where the end of each beam will be. Fill the holes with cement, ready mix will work, install studs to bolt the beams down while the cement is still wet. Install beams and build your bridge..
 
That sounds like a great idea. I do understand what everyone is saying about support underneath. And something Jon said about cross bracing. I will do that to keep the beams from twisting also. Now how to fasten the boards to the beams.
 
The TV show "HOmetime" put a bridge across a creek in one of their series, Some factory made the bridge and used some anchors that worked really good to hold the bridge in place. I don't remember the details but if you search/Google, you should be able to find some engineered anchors that will do the job.
 
Yes i didnt want this to turn out to be a major project. But when the replys where saying sinking
and twisting i was like hey i might need to think on this project just a little more. They are alot
of great ideas. What sticks out most is good support underneath and cross bracing. With this
information i have a better idea of what i need to do.
 
Best way is a drill and carriage bolts. That's a lot of holes to drill. How do the rest of you guys feel about about self drilling truck screws? I have used them only a couple of times. Will the I beam be too thick for these screws?
 
One on each end and one or two in the middle is enough. Wood will be fine, I would use 2x6 or 8 and get at least 3 bolts in them. You just need to keep the beams from twisting or moving. I-70beams have very little resistance to twist or side force.
 
believe it or not, a few years after that photo was taken, a flood took that bridge (trailer) and tossed it aside like it was nothing. It now has cables anchored into bedrock, and I cleaned out some brush below to allow the water to flow and not back up so badly, but I think the biggest issue was debris collecting behind it which caught and took it out. But it has been well worth the effort as there are times I cannot cross the low water crossing to get home otherwise. During that flood it washed one of the large blocks down as well, and those weigh roughly 2500 lb. each, so there is a lot of force involved with that little stream when it floods.
 
first you need to be sure the beams are strong enough to carry the deck and the tractor without over stressing.keeping the compressive stress on the low side on the top flange tremendously reduces the tendency to twist, also a lower height beam will keep it from twisting--a horizontal bridging at each end between beams at each end would be sufficient
a timber sleeper bolted to the top flange is a good way to fasten the timber decking
a heavy timber laid perpendicular to the beams at the ends would work as a support for them and bolt them down to the timber
 
This thread makes me wish I lived in a state that would allow me to build a bridge over the creek! I can't without DEP stream crossing approval and if I were to manage that it would have to be certified by an engineer.
 
I was wanting to do the same thing you are talking about 4 years or so ago where a small creek crosses the back of my property. I took some good solid phone poles I had and laid four of them across the creek where I wanted my bridge. I put two on each side about where the tires of my truck and tractor would be on the poles when crossing. The poles are anchored on a bed of stone on each end. I then went to a local sawmill where the guy will saw phone poles into lumber any size you want. I had him saw me a load of true 2"x8"x9' and some 2x4s out of the poles I had. I then decked the bridge and it is solid as a rock. I built gravel ramps on each end and I was good to go. I can't remember the length exactly but it is about 25 ft long and 9 ft wide. I have had several tractors and trucks over it and it doesn't give much, if any, under a heavy load.

38973.jpg
 
That's pretty much everywhere nowadays as the Fed's put in wetlands protection acts years ago, however if no one notices....And some areas are more lack on enforcement
 
Ya the self drilling screws even have trouble in 1/8 steel pipe without predrilling. Best thing would be to rent, beg or borrow one of those magnetic drill presses and drill a million holes.
 
That's funny, when I worked for state of Virginia, bridges were preferred crossing for forestry practices. Every state is different, I reckon.
 
Is it going to be out where everyone can see it? Build the dam bridge and use it. Sometimes it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission.
 

I am thinking you would not want the bridge to move IF you got a flood...placing the beams on the ground will work but it will be only temporary ( if that's what you intend)..
 
The only way (by automobile) to my house is by a bridge similar to what you have described. It was built before my time (1975 ish) by my grandfather. It consists of 2 large I beams about 30 feet long with 2 inch oak boards on top. I drive a 16000 pound backhoe across it regularly and vehicles across it several times a day. Its on its third or fourth set of boards in 40 years. It will work
 

My opinion , based on probably fifty wooden bridges built on farms and logging roads that I have looked at over the years is that most of the comments here are way overkill. With five feet on the ground on each end it isn't going anywhere. Those wooden brides were good for two logging operations 25-30 years apart. Most of the loads were ten wheelers which were loaded by how high the sides were as opposed to weight. I would just remove the topsoil, set them in place, and place some rocks to hold the little dirt ramps.
 
Actually after i started getting reply's i got to thinking holly crap. My thought process was way
off. But it did enlighten me on a couple things i actually didnt think of. Got alot of great ideas.
But i dont think i need to build it as heavy duty as some you folks. I dont have the big equipment
like some do here. But one thing for sure i know i can ask a question and get great help from yall
folks here.
 
Going to be hidden actually. But yes that is so true. I dont understand why you have to get a permit to work on your own property. Somethings i understand but a small bridge across a creek no.
 
Your big problem is width you want to make it, that width is only safe for a lawn mower. Read the posts just a few after you about tractor sliding in a ditch, that very well could be you with that too narrow a bridge for safty that you want to build. Get more beams and widen it out so you can stay on the bridge and not end up upside down in that ditch.
 
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