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Farmall A Storage

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FarmandRanchBoy

Member
As I was discussing today, I have not been able to get my A running. Someone suggested I change the oils and the antifreeze when storing for the season. Question? If i drain the radiator/antifreeze, and put in new...it won't have circulated correct...so am I better off leaving as is?
Also, short of taking to a dealer shop...what is the going rate for someone to work on such a tractor; how would I go about finding
someone who would work and bring my tractor to working order?

Thanks
FRb
 
As to the antifreeze, you can pre-mix it in 2.5 gallon jugs or buy pre-mixed.
 
I don't know where you are, but there might be somebody on here that can point you to someone, just need a location.
 
If it has god antifreeze in it I don't know why you would waste money changing it. same for oil. If it does not have many hours on it and is not dirty why change it. I run most of my tractors very few hours any season and have not had any problems. the ones I run a lot I change them by the book.
 
Change anti-freeze is a prime example of stupid advice thats posted on this site. To change it just doesent have any rhime or reason to prepare for winter storage. Changing oil is another unusual thing. You need an owners manual as there are instructions about use and maintence. Where the tractor is going to be parked is the most important thing.
 
Hi Gene,

I store my tractor on dirt/uninsulated shed? So leave the anti-freeze alone? I hear all these stories of cracked blocks in the spring
 
If you have the right mix of antifreeze, you're good.
You may have the possibility of condensation in the crankcase. In the spring, I loosen the drain plug and drain out any condensation before starting the engine.
 
Have you used a tester on the antifreeze to see what temp it is good to? If it is not testing to at least 20 below zero, just drain it for the winter. It would be best to get it running and go by the operators manual for storage though. The 20 below zero estimate is for you location in Minnesota. It may need to be lower.

Rodney 8)
 
A few years ago, I was surfing craigslist. Two boys had a MF30, they needed someone to help them fix it. Just so happens they were only 3 miles away. I fixed their generator, they needed a voltage regulator. I got paid with flowers, mums. The boys were small time truck farmers, raise veggies and flowers. Mom sold them.

Try posting an ad on craigslist, looking for help getting your farmall A running.

How close are you to Terre Haute? Good chance you have a mag and a simple marvel carb. See if you have spark, then spray starter fluid in carb. It should fire off for a second or two. No spark, no fire.
 
gene, ever hear the saying "rust never sleeps"?

There is more to antifreeze than freeze protection! If the corrosion protection is depleted, just because the vehicle is stored doesn't mean nothing bad is happening inside the cooling system. And how easy is it to have had that leak last summer, top it up with water, forget about it...

Same with oil. The older engines that were inefficient when new, may or may not have thermostatic controlled cooling systems, commonly get started, idled, and put away, and have poor crankcase ventilation, are very hard on oil. It's not the hours, it's the contamination. The contamination depletes the additives that provide corrosion protection. Once the additives are gone, the oil will get acidic. The acid combines with moisture, which tends to condense in the top end. End result is a stuck engine! So, why not get rid of the old oil before it's stored? Then it will be ready to go next season or whenever it's brought out of storage!
 
You are treating this engine thing like it is a modern hi-strung racing engine. Those engines are simple thats why they are still around and dont need special stuff the new ones need or they are junk. Think of how many millions of tractors were parked in the fall and never started till spring and a majority of them lasted for yrs. Ive had engines apart that have sat for yrs and there is still oil on the bearings and crankcase isnt full of water from condensation. Anti-freeze in those old engines doesent break down but the use of bad water sure can. Tear down a 113 engine thats been in Colorado if you want to see rust ect and if they would have used anti-freeze it would have been in better shape.
 
Thats the bes place and if the test is good the block will not freeze even if there is a good amount of anti-freeze in the coolant it will not freeze solid and bust a block mite get slushy but will not freeze solid at 20below.
 
I agree with Gene.
I've had my A for about 10 years. Have other tractors now and only use it a few hours a year here and there (augers, move a trailer, etc.).
It starts right up. Gets an oil change every few years (when it is good and black). Almost never drained/changed antifreeze in anything around here (flushed a pickup one time and had continual problems afterwards with the temp. gauge). Only problems I've had with storing it this way is the battery. Drains itself, freezes, and then is junk. Oh, well.... Has a hand crank for a reason. Can pull start with a riding mower if I want to (thing is small enough and light enough you can push start if you want to).
Turn the fuel off and let it run till the carb is empty and the fuel isn't an issue either.
Mine is parked on dirt, partially under a roof.
They're tough, simple, and need little effort to keep in working order.
 
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