2003 BX2200 running issue

I have had a 2003 BX2200 Kabota for 5 years. With the backhoe attachment and front loader, I have used it maybe twice a year. It has 553 hours on it. It has worked fine for about 3 hours at a time, them struggled to maintain power. An auction came up and when I loaded it onto the trailer, the nipple on the "out" side of the fuel pump cracked. I bought a fuel pump at a local parts store and it would not run ( but would try to start). I then ordered an aftermarket and had the same issue. Finally I ordering the $161.50 fuel pump from kabota, the tractor fired up and I ran it for 20 minutes. During this same period, the fuel cap failed and the center of it fell into the tank. All four nipples on the fuel tank broke off and I drilled and tapped new brass fittings into each of these. The fuel kill solenoid has been failing for years. I cut off the pin for now, and left the pigtail disconnected until the new kill solenoid comes in. It would work great when the engine was cool, but after it warmed up the kill solenoid would burn your finger if you touched it. When you place the key switch in the start mode, the pin would detract. In the run position, the pin would stay retracted. When key was in the off position, the power would shut off holding the pin inside the solenoid and a loud click could be heard as the pin sprang out to shut the fuel off. After I turned it off, it would not restart. All four nipples on the fuel tank broke off after I placed it in the auction and the fuel tank seems to produce water. I have drained and vacuumed out the fuel tank 3 times. How water continues to get in there I beyond my understanding. I didn't sell this tractor at the auction. The best bid was 5750. I saw the backhoe attachment for sale by itself for 5K and the bucket for 3K. I want to get this tractor running right. I couldn't stand to give it away. My parts (operator, parts and service manual, kill solenoid, all filters and oil, and key switch) should be in soon and I will persevere. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I THINK I can say what is wrong. Your first problem started when the fu@8 years Kubotel cap vent )Which is quite complicated) failed. What you thought was stoping after it got warm was it stopped when you pulled a vacuum on the fuel tank. The fact that it sucked the center of the cap proves that. Now also the Factory KUBOTA you bought was just more pump than the first two you bought. The small vent lines there on the front of the tank were collapsed and caused the tubes to snap off. It is important to understand the fuel control solenoid circuit. There are three wires involved. One furnishes power to the PULL in coil of the solenoid. That circuit is only active when you turn the key to the START position then as you release the key to the run position power goes to another spade or coil called the hold in coil. That holds it pin back to let the unit run. When you say you experienced heat at the solenoid I am certain the hold in coil was going to ground and has probably failed by now. Sound like you are a pretty good mechanic , maybe you will get it going. I would not sell it for that either should bring 10 to 11 thousand.

All I can say is I have had more fueling trouble on Kubotas then anything I own. The skid loader would run for bout 30 min and lose power. Both zd226 mowers have had a lot of trouble. Replaced pumps and filters and ended up one with a collapsed hose and other one was a bad switch that changed from the tanks.

I want add to what jm. said about the fuel solenoid. I bet the reason it failed was improper adjustment. After it pulls in, the linkage has to have about 1/16 or 1/8" of free play, OR, the hold in circuit part of the solenoid WILL FAIL. It is not meant to keep pulling the linkage, but just 'hold' it. That would be why it was so hot. I have seen them fail in just a few hours of run time because they were installed without free play in their linkage. Mark

Never worked on a bota. Some solenoid will work on less voltage. To reduce the voltage 0.6 volts add a diode. Two diodes in series will drop the voltage 1.2 volts. See if solenoid will work and not get over heated.

Are you sure you have a solenoid problem?

Mark the BX is a direct pin not like the old 50 series where you comment is right on. This BX is an enclosed short solenoid that uses no linkage. Most likely a bad solenoid.