What happens when you don't check oil?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
Trash motor. Too much damage to repair.
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SOO, what's the story, did you screw up???, or was that motor on the mower that you mounted on the termite to mow in less than hoeizontal positions.???.
Loren
 
No, I know how to check and change oil. Engine had very little mud like oil. A friend gave me a 48 inch hushy mower, motor was locked up. Only 331 hours on clock. I have same mower, keep it for parts.
I have 1700 hours on my 20 hp Koehler on terramite. It runs like new. Doesn't use oil.
 
When I was a claims adjuster working vehicle service contracts, I got a call one July from a GM service department that had towed in a Pontiac minivan. The engine was seized, and when they ran it up on a hoist and pulled the plug on the oil pan nothing came out.

I called the lady who owned the van and asked her when was the last time she checked the oil. She replied, "Well, I just bought the van in March. I didn't see any reason to have to check the oil yet".

Since her contract had a clause stating the vehicle should be subjected to "reasonable maintenance", she found herself on her own. It was amazing how many vehicle owners thought that just because they had a service contract they could totally ignore any form of maintenance, oil changes, etc., until there was a major breakdown on the vehicle. Then they were the first to badmouth their service contract as worthless. If the lady above could have shown even one oil change receipt, or any documentation that the oil had been recently checked, or even if she had said her son checked the oil last Sunday and it was OK then, I would have paid for the engine.
 
No pics, but I'm currently rebuilding a 3208T CAT that was run with low oil. In this case the customer knew about the leak, and had been keeping it checked regularly for a good while. Then, one afternoon, he got in a hurry, and forgot to check it. I believe he ran it for about 15 minutes, before it seized. His machine died blocking his loading dock, and it is the only large machine he had to unload scrap. Because we had no information on the engine due to it being a reman, and the fact no one would accept a seized engine as a core, rebuilding was about the only option available.

It trashed 4 rods, and the crank, all of which had to be replaced. The new crank ran him right around $1700. I don't know about the rods. The block had to be bored and sleeved because it was worn beyond just going oversize.

I imagine his final cost for this 'ooops' will run him around $14,000+. Thing is he has no choice as another machine would run in the hundreds of thousands.
 
Back many years ago I was pulling a JD 14T hay baler home and had to stop due to a wheel bearing going bad at a gas station. The guys where nice an helped me out.
At the same time I was there a lady came in and asked for help with her car. She told them the oil light came on and well she figured it was just a stupid light and kept on driving and then all at once the car died on her. They asked what happened if you tried to start it and she said it would turn over but made some odd noise. She asked them if they could help her an they said well could have if you had stopped when the light came on but you did not now you need a new engine
 
Old that reminds me of an auto teacher I had. He carried a tin can open end down. We asked what it was. He turned it over showing the half full can and simply said "oil". Some lady religiously checked her oil, added as needed. But never changed it. The sludge in the can that wouldn't pour when upside down is what was in the oil pan.
 
We always called 3208s throw away engines. Couldn't he find a good one (better one) out of a truck or tractor?
 
My FIL was given a Deere LA110 Automatic with a seized engine. If I remember right, someone checked or added oil and forgot to put the cap on. It blew the oil out the fill tube and seized. I took it apart recently and the rod had seized on the crank and put a hole in the block.
Last week my dad gave me a Deere ZTR that quit on him. 25 hp vertical shaft Kohler. He had just finished mowing and went down the road a little ways to get rid of a dead varmint. On the way back it started loosing power and then quit. The starter will click but not turn over. He said it was a quart low. It only holds 2 quarts. It had been using quite a bit of oil (his words). I took the air hose and blew all the dirt and grass out of it. It will probably be awhile before I pull the engine. Guessing a seized and broken rod.
 
Without knowing the HP, etc, and without it having the right accessories in the form of the governor, the right fuel pump, the right turbo, etc, etc, etc. simply getting a used one was a no go. He really didn't want to go this route anyways, unless he could find something with a warranty. There are plenty of them out there, but the majority of them were in trucks, -vs- equipment, so even finding one like he needed was pretty much impossible.

The same held true for a new one. Looking at what was available out there, by the time you factored in shipping, the core charge he wouldn't get back, my time to transfer things over to it, etc, etc, etc, the cost was going to run just as much, or more, for a long block, as it would for a complete rebuild....where he knows exactly what he has.
 
I check oil in a LOT of stuff, even new. Not only can the oil burn/leak out but you might find it overfilled with fuel or antifreeze.

Sometimes I'll get a sigh from someone if I;m checking oil. I just tell them "it only takes once."
 
As a teenager I worked in a Dodge dealership one summer. Someone brought in a car with a valve clatter, we pulled the rocker cover and it was dry, oil passages were not drilled at the factory. Engine was a slant six with over 60,000 miles. Rocker shaft was a bit worn causing excessive lash/clatter.
 
I rate "ran when parked" right behind "that said or that being said" as the two top catch phrases of the 21st century.
 
I've done that a few times, each time the oil hit the muffler, saw smoke, and I stopped before any damage, only lost an oz or two.

I check both gas and oil before using tractors. When some start to use oil at 50-75 hours, turn dark, then I know it time to change oil.
 

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