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3 point hitch implement design

C

ccaissie

Member
There are standards for the pin diameters, but there seem to be no real standards for the distances between the top and bottom pins.
I've learned, this distance plays a serious part in what happens to the implement when you raise and lower it.

If the implement hitch vertical distance is shorter than the tractor link vertical distance, the implement tends to rake forward when lowered, i.e. leans in the forward direction.
If the implement hitch vertical distance is taller than the tractor link vertical distance, the implement tends to rake backward when lowered.

You could fool around with the top link, or get a hydraulically operated one, but it becomes a pain to adjust this top link when loaded, or when switching between implements.

This shows up strongly when using Cat 1 stuff on a Cat 2 tractor...the implement pitches differently out of vertical when raised or lowered.

Is this something that others have dealt with? How?

I build and modify implements for all sorts of tractors and it's a design challenge to get it right..almost purely custom work.
 
If the top link is horizontal and the primary links are about parallel with it, AND the forward and rearward off set of the implement top link location is near zero when the implement is level, it will have little tipping motion issues. The real problem is that the lower links are almost always much longer than the top link (attached forward under the axle). This causes a pitch change no matter how carefully things are adjusted. Jim
 
I don't have it in front of me at the moment, but there are specifications and diagrams that are standard for this, that go back over 50 years.

I recently added a top link mast to a set of Woods Du Al universal pin-on forks, without modifying what was existing. I built it to CAT 2 dimensions and it works perfectly.

See the links below.

Someone here will likely post those standards from way back, I have a copy somewhere in my file directory from the last time.
ISO

Google Search.
 
Yes. Also, the spread of the bottom links effectively shortens the arm, so wider implements behave differently than a narrow one on the same tractor with the same vertical pin distance.

The other reply I just got shows that there are standards. I've seen 15" used as a distance on Cat 1, and 19" for Cat 2.

But I've found just about any dimension in the field. Guess I don't know what I'm crabbing about...it's a case by case situation.

If I was making a standard mass production implement, I'd build to a standard, and not worry.
 
Yes, I learned that too late! I have built some 3-point tools and I have to adjust my top link as I use them sometimes. When I lift the wood splitter it becomes off level. But like Jim says, with the links being different length it's hard to prevent. sometimes it would be nice to have another hydraulic valve and have a hydraulic top link.
a231662.jpg
 
Thats why I have about 25 toplinks hanging in a shed between the differences in 3pt equipment and difference in the hitches on tractors sooner or later I'll use them all probably.
 
As others said, I also have several top links in barn and for specific equipment like 3 pt hay rake, sickle bar mower, rotary mower, and mark them so I know which one. Believe us that cost for a new or used top link worth it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:29:38 07/11/16) Yes. Also, the spread of the bottom links effectively shortens the arm, so wider implements behave differently than a narrow one on the same tractor with the same vertical pin distance.

The other reply I just got shows that there are standards. I've seen 15" used as a distance on Cat 1, and 19" for Cat 2.

But I've found just about any dimension in the field. Guess I don't know what I'm crabbing about...it's a case by case situation.

If I was making a standard mass production implement, I'd build to a standard, and not worry.
Click to expand...
nother fly in the ointment is that many old 3-point implements were made BEFORE the standards came about.
 
Much appreciated practical replies.

It looks like a standard design is not gonna happen, and being adaptable is the best strategy.
Having different top links is about the most practical idea.
Building or buying a hydraulically powered toplink works well.
The toplinks that can be set by releasing and closing a valve are ok, can't adjust them in the air though, need to set them down to fix a setting.
Multiple top link hitch holes is a smart idea...have seen it.

My Farmi winch on my B275 is 26" tall, My Ford bushog has a swivel at about 18", A bed lifter I'm rebuilding is 14", and so on....
 
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