Roll Pin removal

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SHALER

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Can roll pins be drilled out? I have a quarter inch one about 2 inches long that I was having trouble with, mainly because my punch was not the right size, and its giving me fits.
 
That pin is fairly hard. Try and get a little penetrating oil around the outside of the pin. If you have one, try a 1/4 inch diameter pin punch that will just fit in the hole. If the pin is just below the surface of the hole, set the 1/4 inch pin punch in the hole and on top of the pin and give it a good whack with a hand held sledge hammer. The best thing would be a 1/4 inch pin punch with nose on its end. On occasion I have made these using a small grinding wheel to grind the pin end. The shoulder of the ground end has to be sharp to the edge of the pin. Drilling the pin may not produce the results you want and the drill can wander off course. You might also try a piece of 1/4 inch rod with a hole drilled in the end to fit inside the hole in the pin.
 
Before you get in any farther I'd find the proper punch, or rough one out on your grinder. Half the junk in my punch/chisel drawer has been ground for a specific problem.
 
No way to drill they are too hard and the slot in them would make drilling busted drilLS. Get a GOOD PUNCH mite need to see the Snap-on man
 
I have taken a grinder and cleaned the buggered end off flush with top of shaft, then driven in with correct punch.
 

DITTO on using correct punch. The following is my choice of roll pin punches

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(quoted from post at 11:16:57 06/06/16) Can roll pins be drilled out? I have a quarter inch one about 2 inches long that I was having trouble with, mainly because my punch was not the right size, and its giving me fits.

What most of the others said: Get the right punch! :roll:
 
Roll pins can be a pain in the drain sometimes , Even when you have the correct roll pin punches . The best was to get a roll pin out is first ya got to get it moving . And with a roll pin punch on the tough ones you loose some driving force thru the punch itself , the best way is to have a good selection of tapper drift punches as they transfer more driving force to the point . Then once you get it moving then go with the roll pin punch . One can not have enough punches around farm and industrial equipment
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(quoted from post at 16:02:23 06/06/16) I have taken a grinder and cleaned the buggered end off flush with top of shaft, then driven in with correct punch.

on tough, rust filled ones, I do that too. Both sides. Grinder or cutoff wheel puts some heat into the pin, and leaves a nice sharp line to get some penetrant to wick in.
While it's soaking, I make a punch out of good bolts on the bench grinder. pound away.
If the rollpin is going thru castiron, where there is a real risk of breaking the whole flange off, I'll sacrifice a worn out air hammer bit to the bench grinder. Just need a short narrow end. All the air hammer needs to do is get it to move, even a tiny bit.
Then a hammer and punch will finish the job.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:02 06/06/16)
(quoted from post at 16:02:23 06/06/16) I

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If the rollpin is going thru castiron, where there is a real risk of breaking the whole flange off, I'll sacrifice a worn out air hammer bit to the bench grinder. Just need a short narrow end. All the air hammer needs to do is get it to move, even a tiny bit.
Then a hammer and punch will finish the job.

If it's in cast I use the hot saw. 8)
 
Once you get one buggered up it can be a bear to knock out. Probably too late to get a proper roll pin punch. Like others said, if anything is sticking out, grind it flush. Heat is your friend; get it hot and it will come out.
 

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