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IH 350 starter

B

Bob21 Martin

Member
I know I should trade all my fine equipment off for new stuff and I will ... someday. But I'm trying to get my starter working. It's on a 12 volt system if that makes a difference. It was giving me a problem so I put new brushes in it and hooked it up to a battery and it spun like new. So I put it in the tractor and hooked it up and got nothing. Took it out and hooked it up again and it spun fine. So I stopped it then tried it again and got nothing.

I have found out if I nudge the bendix just a little to turn the starter it will spin over, but won't start by itself off the switch.

All the brushes are in good contact, as far as I can tell. Is there anything I can do to get it to work all the time.

Appreciate the help, as always,

Bob
 
Was there any burned bars on commutator or tiny bits of solder under the band. If so, you have an open winding in the armature.
 
From the frame to the terminal there is normally about .3 to .5 ohms (not much at all) if you measure it and get infinity, or even 100 ohms, there may be a bad connection. A connection to the field at the terminal is often cracked and intermittant from the stud being a bit loose in the insulator. Jim
 
The resin cover is chipped off at a couple places, but no burned places, Pete.

I'll check the post insulator. I hadn't looked at that, Jan.

Thanks a lot for both replies and information.
 
After reading your post again, I suspect the main soldered field connection to the external stud but it could be other internal connections as well. Are you conducting your test through the magnetic switch on top of starter or going direct to starter field stud.
 
That's what I'm thinking, open segments on the armature.

Thinking if you were to put an ohm meter between the stud and the case, then hand turn the armature while watching the meter, if any read open, it's a bad armature.

That would be a lot safer than reaching in, turning it under power! I ain't doin' that!
 
When I spin it an let it stop, it pretty well needs a nudge every time. If it was the armature with open circuits would that be more like a Russian Roulet where it would only be a hit and miss? I'll take it apart again and check the connection to the stud to make sure it's OK.

Once again, really appreciate the help from everyone
 
As long as you are taking it apart again, polish up the commutator with some 400 grade auto body abrasive paper, if you didn't already do so. A lathe is ideal, but not essential. The flat surface of the new brushes will be riding on the many wear ridges that the old brushes used to mate up with, and may actually be in less contact with the commutator than the old brushes.

Check to see if someone decided to undercut the mica; if there are grooves between the commutator bars, use an awl to clean the conductive brush dust out of them. I have heard of folks using a broken hacksaw blade for this task, but I never had one that fit right.

Zeke B.
 
I vote for a bad segment in the commutator. I have been told if you put the ground on a welder on the shaft and the rod on the commutator if it arks the armature is bad. It supposedly has to do with a low voltage or amperage leak to ground,that will not show up with a meter. I personally have never had the gumption to risk ruining a possibly good armature that way.
You would have to turn the armature to find out which one is the culprit.
 
I was wondering about that, Zeke. After reading the posts concerning a bad bar on the armature, I notice with the wear on the brush contacts the individual bars aren't well defined. Maybe a couple are too close. I'll take it apart today and clean that up as well as checking the post.

Thanks again for all the information
 
Well it started a couple of times now in the tractor. The post and insulation looked OK but the heavy metal connector that runs to the two coils had a slight bend in it that showed signs of rubbing. I bent that over to get some clearance. Then I rigged up a drill to spin the armature and cleaned it up with heavy emery cloth, then some 1000 grit finish paper. That polished up pretty good. Then I cleaned out the lines between the bars with a small finish file.

Then I stuck it all together and it worked out of the tractor and after I put it back in the 350, so I'm tickled for now anyway.

If I can get another 20 years out of it, I'll trade it off.

Thanks a lot to everyone for the help.

Bob
 
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