2000 Grand Am No Start Please Help

2.4l 4 cyl

Car sat a couple weeks and when I went to start it, it would crank and crank but no start.

It'll run on a snort of ether.

I can hear the fuel pump run.

I don't think it's the passlock theft deterrent system because the security light does not flash.

Tried a different key.

Ran fine when parked. No symptoms.

It didn't rain at all during those 2 weeks.

Quarter tank of gas and I added some more just in case.

Couldn't find any blown fuses.

Oil level is up.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator a couple years ago.

Can anyone recommend what to try next?

To keep it tractor related, I drive it to work where I drive tractors.

Thank you for any guidance.

Check the fuel pressure.

Scan for trouble codes.

Runs with ether means it has spark, so at least part of crank/cam sensor system is functioning.

Beyond that I'd suspect the anti-theft system next.

Un hook the battery for a few minutes let it reset the codes then hook the battery back up and see if it will start. If not then I would think fuel pressure regulator stuck/bad. Since it fires on either I do not think it is the security system. That shuts down the ignition.

JD the security shuts off the fuel pump.

Check for codes, but fuel filter will do that.

Fuel injectors, actually.

So I stand corrected! LOL Thanks Bob.

I'll try unhooking the battery.

Try turning the key to the ON position (do not try to start car) and leave it in the on position for 10-20 minutes, then try to start car DO NOT TURN KEY OFF before trying to start though.. It will "reset" the override.

It's been a while back, but a ex-girlfriend had a Chevy Malibu around same year as yours that would not start once in a while, every once in a while.. Never knew when it'd might not start, never threw any codes, and ran great, when it would start.

I believe someone here told me to try leaving the key in the on position when it wouldn't start for 10-20 minutes, then attempt to start it.. Worked every time she ever had the issue for 3-4 years (was very sporadic, and usually after it started it'd be fine for quite a while, it may be months before it'd do it again). If I recall right, whoever told me said after so many minutes of the key being on it overrides the security system.

It's a cheap attempt, and better than just throwing parts at it.

Brad

X2 Old car dealers trick. Daughters Grand Am did the same thing any time you cleared the check engine codes with the computer. I was thinking door open & switch on for 15 min - switch off for 15 & switch back on for 15. Then she would crank. I alway's hooked up a battery charger before I started.

If it were me I would rule out the Theftlock system. I have a 2004 Grand Am, and have the Theftlock issues (very common problem - GM should have done a recall). The issue is (as I was told by the dealer): There is a faulty plastic pin on the back side of the key cylinder that activates/deactivates the Theftlock switch in the module that is behind the cylinder. It is an intermittent problem, and will show up whenever. In order to clear this error, you must leave the key in the "Run/On" position for ten minutes (Until the SECURITY light stops flashing), and then return the key to the "Off" position. Then you will be able to start the vehicle.

Since your vehicle does crank, however, I'm 99% sure you can rule out the Theftlock system. Everything I have read and have been told by the dealer, the engine will not crank at all with this issue - you will have full power to everything, but the motor will not turn whatsoever.

If it were me, I would suspect the fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter (or possibly an intermittent issue with the fuel pump). Sometimes, fuel pumps are funny. When they are going bad they will sometimes work fine for a while, then all of a sudden one day - nothing. Or like on my Taurus it would build up enough pressure to get the car to fire but not run. If you used ether it would keep it running long enough for the pump to build pressure in the line enough to keep it running. You just never knew.

I would say it is the fuel system, somewhere.. Not the Theftlock.

Oh, and by the way... The Theftlock system fix - $60 key cylinder and module on Amazon... But you have to have the dealer reprogram the computer on the car. I was quoted $6-$800 for the work. For that price, I'll wait the unpredictable ten minutes on occasion.

"The issue is (as I was told by the dealer): There is a faulty plastic pin on the back side of the key cylinder that activates/deactivates the Theftlock switch in the module that is behind the cylinder."

NO "pin". It's a "Hall Effect" electronic switch. In addition to the "switch" getting flaky there's been issues with an electrical connector associated with it.

"Since your vehicle does crank, however, I'm 99% sure you can rule out the Theftlock system."

NOT sure about his exact car, but many GM vehicles affected by security system problems will start and run 3 - 5 seconds 'til security stops pulsing the fuel injectors. Probably can fail so they don't pulse during cranking, as well. No pulsing = no fuel = no start.

Bob, is there a Schrader valve I can check with a pointed tool? If so, where is it? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge set.

Bob,

Good to know! All I could go off of was what the dealer told me, and the little bit I read online (and you can believe everything you read online!).

Thanks for the info!

What I've been reading is just about exactly what you've been saying. Pretty sure the theft system isn't the problem. Thank you for your input. Please see my question below about checking fuel pressure.

Looks like the *%#$^@ thing MAY not have a pressure check port, and you need to "T" a gauge inline, with the proper quick coupler fittings.

A quick GOOGLE search turned up the info below for a SIMILAR engine.
2.4 fuel pressure

No change after battery disconnect. Wish I had a scan tool...

I agree, I would check for fuel pressure FIRST.

Just as a "heads up", when there ARE security system issues, rather than throwing a ton of money and labor at replacing obscure components, find a "tuner" shop with "HP Tuners" or similar software.

For the cost of a license for that vehicle ($100, IIRC) and whatever their service charge is, they can log into the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) computer and tell it to ignore the opinion of the BCM (Body Control Module) as to whether a valid key is in the lock and just simply START.

Obviously, this defeats the security features, so you have to be OK within that before proceeding.

Ends the problem, for the life of the car.

This is also GREAT information. I'm gong to check around with my local performance shops to see what I can dig up.

Dang, looks like the 3.1 has a port. Hmmmmm...

My daughter had a 2001 Olds Alero. Sometimes it wouldn't start. load it up and take it to the dealer and had them reset the security system. The mechanic told me after the 2nd or 3rd time how to reset it myself if it ever happened again. Turn the key to on, set the emergency brake and then put the car in neutral for 10 minutes. Started right up and Never had a issue with it again.

This could be a bit obvious, but........
Is it possible that it is simply out of gas??
I say this because:
a) ran when parked for a couple of weeks...
b) security light is not flashing....
c) you can hear the fuel pump running...
d) runs on ether.

Those symptoms all point to the engine simply not getting fuel. As previously posted, check fuel pressure. Also, check for the PRESENCE of fuel AT THE FUEL RAIL.
Another thought is that there could have been some phase separation in the fuel, and the pump[ may be pumping a weak water/ethanol solution that will not start the engine. Just my thoughts.

That was one of my first thoughts. Gauge showed a quarter, but I added a few gallons just in case. Thanks, though. Do you how to check fuel at the rail? Pull the pressure regulator off?

We've got some good info here, but I'd try smacking the bottom of the fuel tank to see if the fuel pump is stuck.
Tim in OR

There should be a test fitting on the fuel rail. Looks like a tire valve stem with a plastic cap on it. Gauge attaches there. Fuel pressure should be in the 40 to 50 psi range.