TO30 charging?

Thanks everyone for the replies to my rough running/dying tractor. I noticed my ammeter always to the negative when tractor is running, dies after twenty minutes or so. Doesn't start, sounds like dead battery. New distributor, points etc. new ignition coil, voltage regulator, generator rebuilt and new ammeter. Brand new battery and even had load tested earlier today to make sure it was good. Read in book that I need to go positive on the ammeter while running so I switched the wires around. Unfortunately a long little league game my son was in kept me from testing the tractor out. I came home, put battery back in (she was left in the field while battery recharged) but was to scared to run it long since it was getting dark ha! Could a backwards wired ammeter be the gremlin I'm dealing with? I'll run her tomorrow.

When switching from positive ground to negative ground, to get the ampmeter to read correctly, it needs to be switched. But that won't change anything but the direction the needle swings, it will not affect the function of electrical system if wired backward.

To check it, turn the ignition on, or some lights, something to put a load on the battery. With the engine NOT running, it should swing to the "-" or discharge side. Start the engine, rev it up, it should swing to the "+" or charge side.

Ok thank you (sigh)

(quoted from post at 20:58:10 05/18/16) When switching from positive ground to negative ground, to get the ampmeter to read correctly, it needs to be switched. But that won't change anything but the direction the needle swings, it will not affect the function of electrical system if wired backward.

To check it, turn the ignition on, or some lights, something to put a load on the battery. With the engine NOT running, it should swing to the "-" or discharge side. Start the engine, rev it up, it should swing to the "+" or charge side.

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Just wondering if I should do a new ground from battery? The guy who did my generator suggested it. I've installed all new wiring and electrical parts. Can't seem to figure out the dying after twenty minutes or so and having a dead battery. He doesn't like the battery ground to back of dash. Any spot where anything grounds I cleaned to bare metal

Did you work through my Charging Troubleshooting Procedure??? http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=jd&th=458743

It will show if non charging is a Generator or a Voltage Regulator or other problem.

Swapping ammeter leads will NOT cure a non charging problem. If its wired right if you turn on lights or ignition tractor not running it should swing to - discharge. If it goes to + charge swap the leads side to side.

NOTE the BAT terminal from VR and the feed to lights and ignition switches are BOTH on the LOAD side of the ammeter, while the SUPPLY side wires to the hot ungrounded battery post often via a wire to where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch or solenoid input.

Has there been a polarity swap done on this tractor???

Did you Polarize the genny ????????? (See my Troubleshooting Procedure for instructions)

Does the VR have a good frame ground????

YES the battery needs a good ground and sometimes rusty sheet metal may not suffice.

See what my troubleshooting procedure yields, you may have a bad VR or the wrong VR or shes not wired correct.

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting

What is "case" when you say ground to case?

When I went to pick up my gen two days ago, he wanted me to bring the voltage regulator with me to check that. I had just bought it from tractor supply. The VR worked for a second then quit, however not burnt inside when he took cover off, but never worked again on the bench test with gen. I went back to Tractor Supply and swapped for another one. Wonder if that one is bad or not the right one even though box says it will work for TO30. Maybe I should try the old one.

The VR's metal frame and usually where it bolts to the Generator or tractor is its "case" that needs a good bond to tractor.

At a genny shop they might have a genny polarized different from your tractor, but once its back on tractor a new polarization will make it match what you have. Some VR's are polarity sensitive and need to match tractor. If it says suitable for TO 30 that means a TO 30 at its original ground (POs or Neg???) Was your tractor swapped from Pos to Neg ground??

NOTE My testing procedure is for a Class A charging system NOT for a Class B which some Fords (Massey???) used so I cant be sure its right for your tractor, sorry!!!!!!!!!!!

John T

I appreciate the help. I'm at a DOT physical so I haven't gone through your procedure yet but I will as soon as I'm home. The VR was bench tested with my gen after fields were replaced in it. I did polarize. I cleaned to bare shiny metal where the case hooks on tractor to get good ground. Maybe it's in my wiring, no wires on her when I got it. I'm positive VR is hooked up properly, especially since it's labeled, haha! I guess I'm gonna look up ammeter and my toggle switch to start wires. One question...where the battery positive cable goes to stud and other side goes to starter, does it matter which side is which? Also ammeter line to those posts, does it matter if it's on battery cable side or starter side?

(quoted from post at 05:56:19 05/19/16) The VR's metal frame and usually where it bolts to the Generator or tractor is its "case" that needs a good bond to tractor.

At a genny shop they might have a genny polarized different from your tractor, but once its back on tractor a new polarization will make it match what you have. Some VR's are polarity sensitive and need to match tractor. If it says suitable for TO 30 that means a TO 30 at its original ground (POs or Neg???) Was your tractor swapped from Pos to Neg ground??

NOTE My testing procedure is for a Class A charging system NOT for a Class B which some Fords (Massey???) used so I cant be sure its right for your tractor, sorry!!!!!!!!!!!

John T

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