Adequate push-button starter switch??

This seems like it should be easy, but perhaps not. I've been trying to find a push-button starter-switch for my little Oliver OC-3 crawler. Has a little Hercules IXB3 engine. This still has the original 6 volt electrical system. In the winter, I often disconnect the charging system and put in a 12 volt battery so it will start. It is too sluggish on 6 volts in cold weather and just barely adequate in warm weather.

Here is my confusion. I found out after some voltage-drop testing that most of the problem is loss in the push-button starter switch. I bought a new one and have the SAME problem. Now -after some research - seems every push-button switch I can find is only rated at 100 amps and that is ridiculous. It will work when hooked with 12 volts but not HD enough for 6 volts that needs twice the amperage. Not even close. My 6 volt Delco starter is rated for 60 amps no-load and 500 amps fully loaded. Probably should draw around 200-250 amps during normal cranking @ 4.5 to 5 volts. Yet - I cannot find a push-button switch anywhere rated more then 100 amps. Is nobody making them anymore? 100 amp rated switches sold for a 6 volt system are a rip-off, in my opinion. If that is all there is - no wonder so many convert to 8 or 12 volt systems. If anyone knows where a true HD 6 volt switch is available, please post the info. Even with electric-solenoids for 6 volt systems - so far I'm only finding ones rated for 200 amps max, but at least that's better then the mechanical push-button at 100 amps.

external link carries quite a few starter switches, including many that meet OEM specs for old 6 volt tractors. I could't find the amp rating in a quick look, but they were OEM for 6 volt systems so they likely will work. I got one for them for my 1948 Case and it works fine.

Not sure what the rating is, but these were 6v.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ferguson-TO20_Starter-Switch-Manual_181679M1.html

And then I found this... Interesting but expensive!

http://www.realworktrucks.com/vehicle-electronics/solid-state-contactors/solid-state-contactor-inpower-ssc20-200.html

Put a ford solenoid on there and be done with it.

Don't have an answer, but have the same problem. My Farmall H always started until someone stole the starter switch. After replacement it's hard to start. Did a lot of research and found the same, 100 amp switches. One thing to note, is the old switch had 3/8" terminal studs, replacements have 5/16". Been keeping my eye open for a switch with 3/8" studs. Maybe someone smarter than me knew this when they stole my old one.

Had same problem with farmall M on 6v. I added a 6 volt solenoid to carry the heavy starting current and used the stock switch to energize the solenoid. I was able to tuck it all away so it was never seen. Starter may be weak causing excess current but more likely the switches now are poor quality.

The starter checks out fine. I know the issue is the push-button switch. The first switch was something I robbed off a truck salt-spreader that has a 18 HP Briggs & Stratton engine with a 12 volt battery. So I assumed that switch was low amp and made for 12 volt. But the news one I've bought - advertised to be made for 6 volt farm tractors like Case and IH - is the same size and only rated 100 amps which is WAY too small. The starter when new is supposed to draw around 250 amps @ 4.5-5 volts when cranking. Obviously if the switch cannot pass that much amperage, much gets lost to heat (and it DOES get hot fast). Considering all the reproduction parts on the market for old tractors - I am somewhat amazed that no one sells an adequate push-button switch anymore? I guess I will wire it for an electric solenoid like Ford and Ferguson uses. Those are rated for 200 amps and that still falls short - but at least is twice what the push-button switch is. This is kind of ironic in a way. My little Cletrac is the last tractor I own still has an original 6 volt system. Generator and lights work fine. I needed a new battery this spring and was very temped to put an alternator on it and change to 12 volt. But - I kind of like having it original since it all works.

Get 2 electrical solenoids and wire them parallel. Hit switch, both close, boom, 400 amp capacity.

Try an Oliver push button starter switch. $9.62 from this site there's one for use with solenoids and one just a switch in the battery cable
switch

Have switch energize Ford starter solenoid and be done with it.

Go to the junkyard and get an old switch off an old H or M it should have the old heavier switch.

(quoted from post at 23:15:01 05/05/16) Put a ford solenoid on there and be done with it.

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Yep - cheap, reliable & ez!

WINNER! Best thing I ever did to my old tractor.

You need to check these out,
Cole Hersee, Or Flaming River for electrical parts.

Maybe I am getting old. I cannot get used to the cheap crap for sale as replacement/repro parts for farm tractors. Yesterday, I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 6 volt solenoid made for various tractors like a Ford NAA. Countyline brand. Looked kind of neat because it has a manual button on top so it can work with an external 6 volt energize circuit of just by pushing the button. I put it on and tried it with 6 volts to the little "energize" stud and it just chattered and the starter barely worked. I then hit the manual button and it worked great. So at that point I knew it was defective - but as long as it worked with the manual button - WHAT THE HECK, RIGHT? I started it up maybe 20 times and then the solenoid stuck closed. I had to rap it with a hammer to make it open back up. Now it sticks every time I use it. I assume the contacts inside are soft junk, arced, and now stick to each other. So my search goes on. Three useless new parts in a row. It started with a voltage regulator I bought here. Then the push button switch only rated 100 amps, and now this worthless Ford-type relay. I have a New Holland/Ford dealer nearby. I might visit there today to see if they have anything with better quality.

On a side-note - the voltage regulator still perplexes me. New out-of-the-box, it worked fine whenever the engine first started. Then after 5-10 minutes, no charge at all. Put the headlights on and got a 15 amp discharge. So, I took the cover off the regulator and it then worked fine. What the heck? Note there is NO mechanical interference between the cover and regulator body. All I can figure is with the cover on - it gets a little hotter inside and makes it work different? After messing with it for an hour, I bent the arm hooked to a spring to make more tension and the thing started charging great. Ran it for two hours with the cover on - and charge voltage was 7.2 volts. And when I turned on the lights - still read a slight charge.