60 John Deere

HELP!!! I have 60 JD that fires immediately and runs as along as starter is engaged and stops when starter is released. Put in new starter and electronic ignition.[/quote]

How about the new coil that goes along with that elec.ign? And do away with that resistor under the dash.


My experiences.

(quoted from post at 11:12:36 04/16/16) HELP!!! I have 60 JD that fires immediately and runs as along as starter is engaged and stops when starter is released. Put in new starter and electronic ignition.

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/quote]

Looks like it's wired for bypass starting but has no "run" circuit to power the ignition when the starter bypass switch opens.

Sounds like the resistor

You have it wireed wrong as soon as it starts and you let up on starter sw it dies so that means that wire going to dist is no onger hot when you release the staart button so check voltage to dist back thru sw to se why no volts at dist when stqart bytton is released thats why you need a volt meter./

Does it have a solenoid? gm

If it had a ballast resistor , that your problem

Check the ignition switch, be sure it has power to the ignition terminal in the on position.

My first suspect is IFFFFFFFFFFFF????? it has a voltage dropping (12 to 6) ignition ballast resistor (IFFFFFFFFFFF it uses a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt tractor) the resistor is bad/open or the wiring TO (Ign switch IGN Terminal to Ballast) or FROM it (Ballast to coil) is bad or open.

CHECK THE BALLAST RESISTOR FOR CONTINUITY AND RESISTANCE AND ITS CONNECTIONS AND VOLTAGES FIRST

THEORY OF OPERATION: When starting the switch on the starter motor sends up battery voltage when cranking to the coil thereby by passing the ballast resistor for improved cold weather starting, so even if the ballast were bad/open she can still fire while cranking HOWEVER when not cranking the voltage from IGN on the switch must pass through the ballast to get to the coil but if the ballast or its wiring is bad/open she stops firing when not cranking.

NOTE this happens even if the ign switch has good voltage to IGN when ON. The switch itself can be fine and your problem (if a bad/open ballast resistor) still exist IE a check for voltage on the switch when ON doesn't address any potential bad ballast condition. Of course, you still need voltage on the switches IGN when on WELL DUH and if not check the switch and its BAT input voltage.

NOTE on some elec ignition switches the ballast may or may not be used the same so insure its wired correct for your elec switch THAT MAY BE THE PROBLEM INSTEAD OF THE ABOVE

Hope this helps, let us know

John T

Look under or behind the dash for a resister. It is broken.

Thanks so much to each of you for your responses. I also installed a new "Flame Thrower" Coil when I put the electronic ignition in. I just went out and eliminated the resistor; however, I still had same result where it fired right away and had total loss of ignition when I released the starter. I'm somewhat confused as I never touched any wiring on the switch when I installed new ignition.

(quoted from post at 08:12:36 04/16/16) HELP!!! I have 60 JD that fires immediately and runs as along as starter is engaged and stops when starter is released. Put in new starter and electronic ignition.

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/quote]

It sounds like the only source of Voltage getting to the COIL is through the BLACK wire, running from the Engine "Starter" to the Coil.

Something is awry. This black wire, is to supply voltage of full BATTERY VOLTAGE only on start up (when starter is cranking) to the ignition Coil. Hope these schematics are of assistance.


As you are probably aware of, if the tractor is IN GEAR and SOMEONE ENGAUGES the STARTER even with the ignition turned off you could get hurt!

John Deere D, with all due respect, as I understand it I don't think your statement below is exactly correct IF ALL IS WIRED CORRECT.

YOU STATED:

"As you are probably aware of, if the tractor is IN GEAR and SOMEONE ENGAUGES the STARTER even with the ignition turned off you could get hurt!"

If the ignition is turned off, there's a kill switch safety grounding wire connected to the MAG terminal on the switch that wires to the coils output (to kill spark, its like points never open) as I recall for safety purposes so stepping on the starter with IGN off DOES NOT ALLOW THE COIL TO FIRE EVEN THOUGH BALLAST IS BY PASSED AND COIL IS FED VOLTAGE VIA THE STARTER

If you notice the coil (or via ballast) effectively has FOUR wires to it. One from IGN and Ballast to input,,,,One up from starter to input for ballast by pass,,,,,,,one output to distributor,,,,,,,,,one on output up to MAG safety grounding kill switch/wire which is grounded anytime ign is off

SOOOOOOOOOO stepping on starter even with IGN off DOES NOT ALLOW COIL TO FIRE since anytime its in any position OTHER THEN ON the coils output is grounded which is like points never open SO NO FIRE. I think that same MAG ign switch terminal also serves as the grounding kill switch if the tractor had a mag ignition IE it grounds out the points

I think that's right but no warranty ;lol

John T

In that case something isnt wired correct or your switch is bad because the coil should get battery voltage when ign switch is ON and NOT only when cranking. The wire up from starter must be feeding the coil instead of the wire from IGN on your switch or your switch is bad.

Turn IGN on and see if theres hot battery voltage on the coils high (NOT to switch/distributor) input terminal??? See if the coil ONLY has voltage when cranking??? if so its fed from wrong wire.

John T

I am basing this on a project from several years ago, but aren't you supposed to remove the resistor from the system when going to electronic ignition ? The resistor prevents the points from burning, points gone don't need resistor. I am 99% sure I had to on an SBC when changing it to a pertonics setup. If this is true it maybe that once you let off the starter there is not enough power to fire the ignition system.

Thank you "John T"

Bob..

Again, I wish to thank everyone for your comments. The electrical schematic was most helpful; and yes, I did get out my meter and began
checking voltage. The only battery going to the coil came from the black wire that provided voltage only when the starter was engaged. There
was no battery voltage coming from the key switch. Therefore, a new switch was installed yesterday. Wow, the electronic ignition is great, fires
on first revolution of flywheel, and has never sounded so sweet. Don't work her much anymore; although she does a great job with the square
baler. I guess if I got rid of a few horses I could then get rid of baler. Not really as I love the sound of that 60 pulling that baler.
Chuck

Thank you for the follow up , letting us know the results.