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Un-seizing adjuster screws on Hay Rake?

B

blunosr

Member
Hi, I just bought an old International 35, ground-driven rake. The bearings are all good, but it needs several teeth, and the adjuster screws are seized. Can you guys give me ideas about how to free up these screws?







Thanks,

Troy
 
Troy.........squirt'em with white cider vinegar. ($2, cheap) Simple, eh? .........the amazed Dell

50% acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is also suppostta be goot
 
It's going to take eons for anything to soak in as far as those threads go, if it ever does.

You need HEAT. Oxy-whatever heat. Propane, acetylene, MAPP. Pick your poison, they all work. Put the tube in the vise, heat it evenly and keep trying to move the crank every little while. Maybe try to wick in a little bee's wax if you have it.

Once you get it free, clean everything up with a wire wheel, let it cool, and slather a bunch of grease on the threads before you put it back together.
 
I have a rake a lot like that one it is in fact an IH rake and had the same problem with it. I heated them up then poured ATF on them and let them sit then heated again and kept doing that till they freed up. Takes time and a lot of soaking
 
As the others said HEAT. If you look close where the threads go into the tube about a inch down you will see a weld. The threads only go that far so no need to heat the whole
tube just the first couple inches.

Get it red hot and carefully apply the penetrating oil of your choice, be careful as it will likely flame up. WD40 is about the worst on this. My preference is GIBBS.

Have the tube clamped in a vise and try turning the crank while the collar is hot and you are applying oil.

jt
 
When you do get them apart, consider adding a grease fitting to each one. If I remember right, New Holland 256 rakes had a grease fitting on the top of their height adjuster screws. For a simple machine, there were a lot of grease fittings all over that rake.
 
Lots of good advice. Also try Motor-Coat. It is the stuff they use in Deisel engines and face the tube upwards in a vice. Pour some around the threads and let it soak in for a while. Add a little heat and carefully work it back and forth.
 
Kroil. Let some soak in for a while. If you can get it to move even a little it works faster. Then turn it back an forth with the Kroil on it. Don't force it with a large wrench. It will come a little farther each time till it's out.
 
Whatever method you use, be sure to start by working it back and forth, however small the movement, and keep adding lubricant. Do not try to back it out all at once. You may know this already.

Garry
 
had similar problem. Heat & ATF/Acetone mix worked well.
Buffed off old rust and coat threads with a mix of anti-sieze and moly grease to keep this from reoccurring.
 
I got 'em...

A little patience is all it took. No heat required, just back and forth with a pipe wrench and anti-seize, cleaned all the rust off the screws, then installed a grease fitting for each screw, and new zerks for the pivot points, which I will have to flip over since they are worn pretty bad. Apparently those cast pivots are a weak point on these rakes. Oh well, it'll work good as new now.





Bye for now,

Troy
 
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