1956 Model John Deere 70

sometimes the clutch facings come off/apart and jam everything to the point of not disengaging. Bill
 
Does the clutch engage and disengage with a "snap" at the lever but yet won't release, or is there no movement/"slap" feel to the lever?

To add to what the other reply says, the plates can rust together and continue to transmit crankshaft rotation to the belt pulley even of the lever "snaps" back.

Also, is there a lot of side-to-side movement of the pulley and flywheel (crankshaft endplay)?
 
Get an operators manual and a ITT shop manual.. and if you have these items then read.. if you can't read or have poor reading
comprehension get a friend or acquaintance to interpret the manuals for you. All you need to know is in the manuals...if you study the
mechanics of the clutch and its engineering design. You can also learn from practical experience.. if you have a modicum of mechanical
ability ...by dissembling the clutch in a studied fashion. A John Deere dealer told me many many years ago that his one big beef was that
"no one reads the manuals... no one"... and was often appalled at just how ignorant and lacking in mechanical ability many "so called"
farmers" actually are. I was pulling the clutches apart on my Dad's 2cylinder tractors 63 years ago when I was 12... grow a pair.
 
I'm familiar with the clutch in a 730,but not a 70. If they're the same,the far inside disc isn't just as simple as it might seem to get out. On the 730,you have to turn two half inch bolts in to threaded holes and use them as pullers. I've seen some of the best old time 2 cylinder mechanics break that disc. It might be necessary to put heat to it with an acetylene torch. If you turn one of those bolts just a fraction of a turn too far,instead of popping loose,it can break like glass.
 
What the others are telling you plus there might be a broken disk that has doubled up. Did it just happen or was it sitting for awhile when it locked up.
 
I had that happen in my '53 70 last winter, the lever would
snap back and fourth but the pulley just kept spinning. The 70
is slightly different than the 720 and 730 and a whole lot
different than the smaller 60. I gotta John Deere service book
and would be happy to copy and email you a few pages if
needed. Just email me.
 
(quoted from post at 13:29:42 04/03/16) What the others are telling you plus there might be a broken disk that has doubled up. Did it just happen or was it sitting for awhile when it locked up.
t was idle for about 3 weeks then this happened
 
I have had the same problem with one of my 70's if what you mean is the clutch starts to reengage when the lever is pulled back. You have a warn operating pin as shown on
page 43 of the I&T manual JD-10. When the operating pin gets warn the pulley brake can not stop the rotation of the pulley. I use the 70 D service manual as well as the I&T
manual and in this case the I&T manual is very good.. You will need to remove the pulley from the tractor to get at the operating pin (be careful not to drop it or you'll be
removing the first reduction cover to get it) . Do not ask how I know that. I will show you where that warn operating pin is , you look and see for yourself.
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a222519.jpg
 
I have a 70D and have had the same problem, it was a broken disk that doubled up. One time it
engaged all on its own. Jim
 
While everything mentioned may be true, when that happened on my 70, I was just approaching the road with a just loaded silage wagon and
discovered the clutch wouldn't disengage even though the clutch lever felt perfectly normal. The problem was the roller bearing in the pulley
failed and locked the pulley to the crank. It was an exciting time getting the load stopped, the road can be very busy.
 

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