Riding Mower belts

For most items I can search ebay for a part number and get a replacement cheap that looks and works like new. But belts, well, I've been bitten with the $15 belt (ebay) that broke in a months time before--that's not a deal. But I've also had a $35 belt (NAPA) break after only 1 year. Meanwhile a $44 belt (ACE Hardware) lasted 8 years! I don't know how to know I'm getting quality. I know Kevlar is the buzz word but I'm beginning to suspect there are different grades of Kevlar belts out there. Is Kevlar wrapped good or is that like buying gold plated when your looking for gold? Right now I'm looking at Ebay item #200884501198. Or, maybe I should just bite the bullet and go back to ACE and hope their quality is the same. The belt I need now is the ground drive belt--it's actually the one that came on the mower when new in 1999! The others belts I've mentioned were the blade belts which don't seem to last as long--which makes sense when you figure they are probably higher stressed than the hydro drive belt, run at varying angles depending on deck height and are prone to trash getting caught in them.

So, advise on belts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Changed one of those out two years ago and they are a real Prize if you are working on an MTD with the variable drive pulley. You need to pull out the bolts and drop the tranny out a little.

Most all riding mowers I have owned, require a special length.
On my Wheel Horse, I changed the idler pulley and can use a B100.
I buy most belts from local Industrial Supply Store for about 1/3 dealer price.
I have discovered, over the years, that they last much longer if I simply turn the blades/pulley by hand to keep them from setting in the same position over the winter.

You'll get lots of opinions on this subject!

All I can share is my personal experience. I have never been able to make an off the shelf belt work on a riding mower! Tried it several times, ended up wasting money and time. If not instant failure, it would fail in a fraction of the time the original belt lasted.

On a ground drive belt, if it's a straight forward belt, no special size, no twists or misalignment, you might get lucky. But for a mower deck, I would go back with a factory belt.

Also there are many different cross sections of belts, A, B, C, L, V, and variations of each! If there is not enough left of the original to positively identify, or a standard number, then the guess work factor comes into play... Not the makings of a happy ending!

All this hearsay and BS is one thing, but I don't think you posted the part number or price of an OEM belt, or how long it lasted vs. the price and longevity of a second-rate part, which would be good info to have before making a judgement.

'Course why would we let the facts and lots of info stand in the way of making a snap judgement?

The Kevlar is a must in this type of situation. It has to do with how the belts are routed, not only going around a poker the normal way but also bring almost folded back over the other way on the idler pulleys, and if there is any twisting going on like there is for my snowblower,a normal belt just won't last.

In the end,oem belts are a better deal than chasing after replacement belts 3x as often if they're not oem

Donovan from Wisconsin

Check with a place that sells belts and bearings. Ask if they have an INDUSTRIAL GRADE belt of that same size, that will outlast the OEM belts.

I like to save a buck when I can but mower belts are not the place to skimp from my experience. Cheap belts (the 4L/5L series) don't hold the HP requirements. The A/B series belts with Kevlar may hold the HP requirements but just don't hold up. It seems like the off the shelf Kevlar does not have the flexibility like OEM belts.

Last year on my mower (simplicity broadmoor) I finally replaced the original belts after 15 years and 350 hours of use with OEM belts. I expect to get the same from the new ones but probably wont have the mower that long to find out.

We had bad luck with one bought locally for our Husqvarna, so we ordered one online along with a new set of blades, working great and a good price.

I found OEM belts last the longest,...for my JD lawn tractors anyway.

Tremendous difference in belts. I have a Kubota. The original deck belt lasted 15 years. The original really didn't wear out but something cut it about half way through. I bought a new one at the Kubota dealer, noticed that it wasn't a Kubota belt but, the dealer said we don't stock Kubota belts so I took it. It lasted exactly 2 hours. I put the cut belt back on and finished mowing. Went back to the dealer and told him to order a Kubota belt. He said those belts cost $75. I ask him how much he thought the other one cost me. The 75 dollar one, that he ordered me has been on there at least 15 years, I haven't cut it yet.

I have no advice on belts but I will advise you that advice and advise are two different things.

Not to hijack the topic but........Belts get replaced, a few times. Few people look at the pulley and realize they also wear.
A new belt on worn pulleys will have a shorter service life.

(quoted from post at 21:39:37 03/29/16)
Not to hijack the topic but........Belts get replaced, a few times. Few people look at the pulley and realize they also wear.
A new belt on worn pulleys will have a shorter service life.

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That's good advice.

Hi, I buy green color belts, they last probably 4 to 1 compared to standard. I get them from an industrial warehouse. Ed Will Oliver BC