Sucks to be me :~(

Been doing a in-frame rebuild of a JD4430 since Jan. I took the most care I ever have measuring, cleaning, assembling, lubing. Well I just got it together today and got it started. drove it out of the shop and let it sit and run about 5-7 minutes and it started running hard and stalled. Hmm tried turning it over and it's setup. It had great oil pressure the whole time. I just don't see what could have went wrong.

So we pushed it back in and drained the oil in prep for pulling the oil pan tomorrow.
 
Didn't knick a cam bearing or something did you? I did an out of frame on a 3010 once and it did that. When I started feeling along the side of the block,it was hot right where that one cam bearing was.
 
One farmer. Good luck for what you find pal. It reminds me of a motor rebuild I did on a Vauxhall about 50 years ago. Put the motor in, started it, it ran good but oil pzzg out from behind engine 2" from firewall. I had to take motor out to put in omitted frost plug on end of cam shaft. Plug cost 25 cents. Ed Will urrgh!
 
Piston skirt clearance can affect it as well from cold to warming up. Hopefully it is something simple.
 
Hope it is not as bad as my 4230 a few years ago. We got a new cam that was bad. Had it on the dyno breaking it in and it locked up so fast the fan belts squealed on the pulleys. Spun the gear on the crankshaft, the valves out of time so they kissed the pistons and broke several rocker arms. The company stood the parts bill and give us a labor allowance. Tom
 
If it wasnt knocking when it stalled out Maybe could be a main bearing. Would it spin over by the starter after it stalled ??? What ever it is i hope its not bad.
 
That does suck! I always worry too, and really don't trust an engine for a long time after I work on it, mostly because I know how much of an amateur I am. Hope it's not too bad.
 
Hope it's not serious. That does sick. Dumb question, but did torque everything right? Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.
 
This isn't my first engine rebuild but it's my first wet sleeve diesel. I was so worried about this type of thing happening (I had a bad feeling) I checked and double checked everything. I even came on and asked opinions on various steps. If the book gave a torque range I aimed for the middle. I know I did it all correct. But still something happened.
 
Also saw one time where the galley from the oil pump was plugged. You would get the pressure reading and no oil up in the top end of the engine.
 
I installed new rings in one of my tractors. I was running it after I got it together. I wasn't running hard. The motor just started slowing down, and finally just stopped running. The problem was one of the pistons for some reason seized on the cylinder wall. To this day I don't know what made the piston sieze. I honed the cylinder, installed new rings. I used 15-40 oil. I always used straight 40 wt. I don't know if the multi oil made a difference or not, but I always use straight wt oil now, and have never had a problem since. I hope you find the problem, and it's not too serious. Stan
 
Id say that probably my most nervous time is the first start on a rebuild. Your just waiting to find out you made a $3000 4 month mistake.
 
Gloom, despair, and agony on me
Deep, dark depression, excessive misery
If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all
Gloom, despair, and agony on me...

It will get better, since it was idling, maybe not too much harm done.

Remember, ASAP! (Always Say A Little Prayer)
 
"...run about 5-7 minutes and it started running hard and stalled. Hmm tried turning it over and it's setup...".

I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Mark
 
A person I will not name..... Has done many overhauls. On my OWN JD 4450 several years ago I was doing an in frame overhaul. I accidently got a top and bottom main bearing switched. Thee is NO oil hole in the bottom half. Wiped out the cam and block when the cam bearing spun in the block. It got hot enough the block was damaged.

So I would drop the oil pan and look for anything that shows where it was hot.
 
i had something similar happen to me on a 4440. Turned out the clutch hub fell out of the perma-clutch when I joined the engine to the flywheel housing. Too much thrust on the crank and she seized up. That would only be an issue if you did an out of frame overhaul.

Jared
 
"Turned out the clutch hub fell out of the perma-clutch when I joined the engine to the flywheel housing."

Trouble with that statement is that the "clutch hub" CANNOT fall out of a properly assembled "perma clutch". You could roll the damned clutch and flywheel assembly down a rocky hill and it couldn't "fall apart". So what REALLY happened?

I'm gonna venture WAY out on a limb here and put forth the hypothesis that the halves of the tractor were crudely drawn together without the traction clutch and/or PTO clutch splines being properly lined up/meshed with their respective mating splines.

Let's hear the REAL story!
 
No matter what the oil pressure,
Most engines lubricate the cylinders, rings, and tappet face by SPLASH
from the crank slinging oil. It is important for first break-in to run it
a good rpm over idle, so everything gets splashed well.
 
Seems to me that making main bearings with an oil access hole in only one side is a real Mickey Mouse way to engineer something. gm
 
Happened to me once, learned a lesson. I had put new rod bearings in without having the rods checked for round. Rods were out of round, should have been reconditioned. Yep, they get to laboring pretty good before they seize.
 
(quoted from post at 20:24:59 03/22/16) Look at the mains closely, if a lower shell was put in top that will shut the oil off..

I had an employee do that on an overhaul on a 4020. The engine actually ran for just about 20 hours. By then the oil level was about a gallon below the full mark. Maybe it would have run longer if the operator had kept the correct amount of oil in the crankcase?
 

Back in the mid-70s new IHC Hydro 100s had the same symptoms, you could be going fullbore and they'd slow down and 'lockup' as far as turning over was concerned. Turns out the clearances in the oil pump were too close BUT the pump could be changed on the tractor with little trouble. But, when it happened it seemed like a major overhaul was next; could be that you've overlooked something 'simple'. I hope so ....... Good Luck! :)
 
You're wrong on that. The halves will go in wrong. The deere originals were both halves exactly alike. Top and Bottom had the oil hole and the oil groove making a full circle with an oil groove. Part numbers on the halves were the same.

The replacements were solid on the bottom and oil hole and groove for the tops. But I'm 100% sure I did them correct.
 
stupid question time,,.you did indeed have water in the radiator ,,it has honestly been over looked by folx I know around here ,,.mostly because they thought someone else had put water in it while they went pik up sumthin ...and the water boy got distracted by the cows getting out or his girl friend dropping by wanting to know how a carburetor works on a diesel tractor .lol.they will cease up and lok up ,, but generally.after a natural cool down ,they will be fine with full coolant..if coolant is ok, then ,yeah that is tuf break ,,. btdt enuf to where I no longer will do bottom ends,and sleeve , piston rings , just do water pumps head gaskets ,injectors,. ,,don't kik yourself or beat yourself up . I took down a yanmar 2220 3 times before it finally run like it should.. after 12 hours see if the motor cranks normal . if so,,. if you are like me you will want to start it and see if it does it again , and possibly really phuk the motor up... lol ,.what I would do is add a couple quarts of atf , and perhaps some engine restorer ,. if it ceases again ,, try hand cranking the motor rite after ceasing , half hour later, 1 hour later and so forth,.just to judge whether it is crank or cam bearing,., imho, that idea is like playing Russian roultte ,,..to be on the safe side you would do well to meticulously remove and inspect each bearing.. .
 
(quoted from post at 11:12:12 03/23/16) Seems to me that making main bearings with an oil access hole in only one side is a real Mickey Mouse way to engineer something. gm

The load on the main bearings is always on the bottom bearing insert. By eliminating the oil groove on the bottom half it increases the bearing surface area.
 

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