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Concrete Floor Question

J

John B.

Well-known Member
I'm going to be putting in some concrete in an area of 12' x 23' in my shed for a work area. It's just dirt now. What should I put under the concrete, Sand, 3/8 or 3/4 rock and level it off?? Should I put sheet of plastic down under first?

Thanks,
John B.
 
Not sure what kind of a shop you are talking about but have you considered a floor drain. I didn't and regret it almost every time I move snow and park the loader in the shop.

That said my best advice is to tell you the 3 things Ive learned about concrete; It gets hard, It cracks, and the most important thing is to hire it done.
 
I don't plan on putting in a drain on this section. Then I plan on cutting a slot in the middle of the concrete the day after it's poured. What did you put under your concrete though?
 
How cold does it get ther in the winter. Do you have foam insulation around the slab or foundation? Are you going to heat that area? Need more info. Heaviest piece you will drive in there.
 
This area is at the man door in the corner of the building. No heavy driving on it at all. I plan on insulating the walls and heating this 12 x 23 area. I'm doing this mainly to put in a nice workbench to store my tools.
 
The purpose of a vapor barrier is to reduce the amount of moisture coming up from the ground. Moisture in the concrete will naturally evaporate. If you have a high water table then it may be advisable to put a vapor barrier. The engineers generally determine if it is to be between the concrete and base or otherwise. Plastic or visquine (sp) is not sufficient. You need a material specific for the task. As to the sub-base, depending on your soil and its compaction ability, concrete can be poured directly on top of a level, compacted surface. A sand/gravel mix works well as it compacts very well and provides a good base. If you are planning to park heavy equipment on it you need to consider the thickness of the concrete and use of steel. If it's just a home workshop a good steel wire will help hold it together. Make sure you put in a sufficient number of saw cuts to control cracking. Here is a website that may help.
Concrete
 
Don't use sand. It really does not compact well. I started filling my shed with sand and the stuff is just a PITA. You think it is compacted...but really no. I have a client who is an old time cement guy. He would tell you that the most important thing for strength is what is under it. My current preference is road gravel from my local pit. Compacts like brown sugar, then seems to harden like it too.
 
Put in at least 8 inches of crusher run, a foot would be better, than put plastic over that, then either use fiber mesh concrete or put in wire mesh, or both.
 
Remove any unsuitable/existing soil, compact the undisturbed, then place an appropriate gravel/crusher run, compact 95% or better. The detail in the link below shows this.
Detail
 
In our area of the country (SWMN) this is starting to be the norm. Good base of compacted gravel, sheet of plastic, 2" of 25psi blue board insulation, infloor heat tubes and 1/2" rebar, 2' on center sitting on 2" chairs. Sounds like a lot but you will have a good solid pad that will not sweat in the spring.
 
It would depend on the soil in your area. If you had gumbo soil you would need to put down a layer of sand. The soil in my area is sugar sand. You can pour concrete without doing anything.
 
Most important thing is to start with good drainage. If the drainage is good, you don't need to be so fussy about the fill. Sand is fine if it's well-compacted; crushed rock is better. Vapor barrier isn't so important if you have good drainage.
 
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