Miracle gasket sealer

Fudd

Member
At work, we have a F-750 that has developed a seep at the bottom of the rear end where the third member attaches to the differential housing. The factory uses a sealer instead of a gasket here. Twice I have cleaned it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and tried to force blue silicon into the joint but it still leaves a silver dollar sized puddle overnight. This truck goes out every day but sometimes gets back before I leave. I have in my head that I read somewhere way back when that someone makes a sealer that you spray on to seal such a leak. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
"forcing sealer into the joint" You need to take the third member out and clean it good and apply the sealer. I had a Mercedes Benz that did not have an oil pan gasket. Just used silicone sealer. I know it will work.
 
I have fixed leaks 'similar' to this before by draining and cleaning area well then setting up a shop vac to the fill plug, start drawing vacuum on it and apply 3-M Super weather strip adhesive to the leak area till it draws some in, let it set over night and refill,, it has pulled the rabbit out of the hat a few times..the thing is you can not just rub the sealant on ,, it needs to get drawn in,, and this has a good chance of making that happen...
 
The front wheel drive gearbox on my JD 4450 leaked a bit after gasket replacement. I put some JB weld over the area and sealed it. Need to wipe the oil off completely.
 
Is it possible the bolts/nuts need snugging up and the two parts are squirming a bit in relation to each other, under load?
 
never heard of a spray on sealer, maybe on pavement though. but the mating surfaces have to be cleaned first. then locktite has a product you use, a red gasket maker. its not silicone either. have used that on bare machined surfaces. works good.
 
The simple fix would be to pull the axles and pull the rear, its not a big job realy, clean well and apply permatex ultra rtv, its a harder more durable rtv than the old stuff that was like bathtub caulk. Check carefully that it is coming from the joint, some housings do crack in that area.
 
Old mechanic where I used to work many years ago would loosen the nuts on the rear end housing then wrap something like water pump packing around the studs with the cut end at the top. Tighten the nuts back up refill and good to go. Always stopped the leak. Simple and quick.
 
(quoted from post at 15:17:26 01/26/16) At work, we have a F-750 that has developed a seep at the bottom of the rear end where the third member attaches to the differential housing. The factory uses a sealer instead of a gasket here. Twice I have cleaned it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and tried to force blue silicon into the joint but it still leaves a silver dollar sized puddle overnight. This truck goes out every day but sometimes gets back before I leave. I have in my head that I read somewhere way back when that someone makes a sealer that you spray on to seal such a leak. Any ideas? Thanks.

Try some spray paint. Several coats. Had to replace a water pump on an inboard engine boat I owned once. For some reason a gasket had to be cut and replaced as the oil pan could not come off without taking the motor and out drive out of the stupid thing. Cleaned everything and replaced the water pump and used RTV silicone to seal the gaskets that were cut. It never did seal and leaked oil in the bottom of the boat. Well as a neat freak I could not have this. I cleaned area with carb cleaner and laid a few heavy coats of spray paint on it and that is what sealed the leak. The fix is still going some 15 years later. Might be worth a try! Cheap and easy!
 
I use a product called Seal-All. Clean and degrease the area aroung the leak and smear it on. Might take several appications, but it will work. I had a Diesel fuel tank with a pin hole leak. I cleaned the area around the leak and smeared on the Seal-All six years later it is still working. I use it all the time on my tractors for leaks between the transmission and the axle flanges. My brother in-law just restored an old Gibson. Got it all painted an put it together and the gas tank had half dozen pin hole leaks in the bottom. Smeared on the Seal-All and no leaks. That was two years ago.
 
Find a tube of what's called Right Stuff. It is a permatex product. If you get the black it will seal anything. When you take it apart again you will have a heck of a time breaking it apart it is that good. It is all we use when rebuilding a tractor any more. Our local NAPA store carries it and some other automotive places do also.
Right Stuff
 
I too,have done it this way several times.I remove two bolts and put in 6"long 5/8 bolts and slide the rear end out,and allow it to hang on the bolts.Clean both surfaces,and apply the silicone,and slide it back together.The ultra is the best,it won't leak.Mark
 
"Honda Bond" is supposed to be really good for sealing. I haven't used it but have had others tell me it is good.
 

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