The brakes on my 94 Ram 1500 haven't worked right for quite some time. I had low fluid level, so I filled it and checked the system for leaks. Didn't find any leaks. and it has not leaked since, although the brakes don't work right yet. Since winter is here, I finally put it at the top of the priority list. I hardly ever drive it. When I tried to bleed the brakes, I was afraid I would twist off the bleeder screw, so I quit. Today, I heated the bleeder screws on the front and doused them with a mixture of ATF and Mineral spirits. I did this twice, letting it cool between applications. The third time I heated them, I used beeswax melted around the base of the bleeder. They came out without a lot of aggravation this time. I cleaned the threads and made sure the internal passages were clean and applied anti-seize to the threads and reinstalled them. Tomorrow I will try to bleed them. I just realized I need to make sure the rear bleeders are also operational. To bleed properly I know I need to start at far corner from the master cylinder and work back to the closest.
- Thread starter IA Roy
- Start date
Bob Harvey
Well-known Member
AND, whoever you have on the pedal, DO NOT pump them. Open bleeder, down pedal - stop - close bleeder - up pedal. If you pump them any air will disperse throughout the line. HTH
As much as I admire your technique, I've got to say that personally, I don't need too much justification to buy new calipers when doing brakes.
If the bleeder screws are rusty enough to worry about, especially on an older vehicle, and even more so on a vehicle where the brakes aren't working right, and even more so on a vehicle you're planning on bleeding anyways - I'd run to the nearest chain auto parts store and grab some new calipers.
They should be cheap enough and easy enough to swap out quickly. Plus, you might even fix your problem in the process.
Of course, the one "down side" is that when you touch old brake systems, a domino effect of problems always seems to get kicked off, and you may end up finding you need some new hoses and lines, but - it's a good time to find those weaknesses vs. while driving.
If the bleeder screws are rusty enough to worry about, especially on an older vehicle, and even more so on a vehicle where the brakes aren't working right, and even more so on a vehicle you're planning on bleeding anyways - I'd run to the nearest chain auto parts store and grab some new calipers.
They should be cheap enough and easy enough to swap out quickly. Plus, you might even fix your problem in the process.
Of course, the one "down side" is that when you touch old brake systems, a domino effect of problems always seems to get kicked off, and you may end up finding you need some new hoses and lines, but - it's a good time to find those weaknesses vs. while driving.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I would be very very careful to keep any chance of the anti-seize from getting into the caliper. They are petroleum based and can contaminate the entire system. Were it mine I would wipe them clean. Jim
Not sure what yr your truck is, but with my Chevy with abs braking, you have to unhook power to abs control block before it will open the ports, I have bled mine numerous times to try to get the air out, mainly because my brake lines rusted into over the frame, and this was after the so called professionals had worked on it.
Mathias NY
Well-known Member
My 97 ram 1500 has also had some braking trouble. In my experience with it, low fluid and no leaks tells me that the bleeding probably won't help. I admire your dedication to freeing them up though. I'm usually to chicken to try that unless I've changed something.
They salt the roads pretty well around here and I have had trouble with the lines corroding closed. If you can get them to bleed, this isn't your problem.
If the e-brake doesn't grab, check the adjusters on the rear drums. I've had my truck 13 years and have had to replace the adjusters every 3-4 years.
If the front brakes don't work, check for worn pads or uneven wear pattern on the rotors. If all this looks ok, check for rust/grime built up around the calipers. In order to work correctly they need to move. I try to remove them once a year just to keep everything freed up.
Good luck!
They salt the roads pretty well around here and I have had trouble with the lines corroding closed. If you can get them to bleed, this isn't your problem.
If the e-brake doesn't grab, check the adjusters on the rear drums. I've had my truck 13 years and have had to replace the adjusters every 3-4 years.
If the front brakes don't work, check for worn pads or uneven wear pattern on the rotors. If all this looks ok, check for rust/grime built up around the calipers. In order to work correctly they need to move. I try to remove them once a year just to keep everything freed up.
Good luck!
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
I wish I had your problem. On mine the reservoir for the rear breaks goes dry every two weeks. I've checked the wheel cylinders, the lines and the master cylinder and can't find a leak anywhere. The fluid has to be going somewhere but it seems to be evaporating.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
Low level in the master cylinder doesn't mean there's a leak when you have disk brakes. Normal wear will cause the level to drop and after topping off you may find the reservoir overflows when you retract the calipers to replace the pads.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Pull the hose off of the vacuum booster, the fluid is being sucked into the engine! jIM
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