OT-Getting Steel Filler Plug Out Of Aluminum Transmission

1206SWMO · Dec 19, 2015

I recently purchased a F-350 Ford with a 5 speed tranny...The Jolly Green Giant must have tightened the transmission filler plug.....I broke off a Snap On 3/8" drive trying to get it out of there.....Just how much heat will an aluminum transmission housing take? The only other alternative is to drill it out and flush the tranny.. The rear end filler plug was also very tight but I finally managed to get it loose..I wish that it was rear end plug that I couldn't get out..

Don-Wi · Dec 19, 2015

Must be the same guy who tightened the drain plug on my F250's 5 speed. I started rounding it offoso I quit for now and figure I'll go after it with a breaker bar some time. I was able to get the filler plug loose so I topped it off for now. Only took about a pint.

Donovan from Wisconsin

rrman61 · Dec 19, 2015

You might be better off drilling it out then use an easy out.If you use more force with a wrench with more leverage you can crack the aluminum case.That happened to me trying to remove a heater hose fitting on my intake manifold on my 350 Chevy.While drilling the shavings should flow out not into the transmission.You can also try unscrewing it with a hammer and cold chisel after its drilled

dr sportster · Dec 19, 2015

You will never get it hot enough with a propane torch to melt anything. Things like that I heat the plug as hot as I can then when it cools I put the twist to it.

RayP(MI) · Dec 19, 2015

More likely the plug corroded in. Had similar problem with steel lug nuts on aluminum wheels on a Ford Bronco II. Tire dealer was stumped with this one. I finally resorted to drilling stud and nut out. Replacing both with new. Problem continued and my final solution was to lube lugs and tapered shoulders of nut with gun grease.

When you do get it out, wire brush both sets of threads thoroughly and ssdemble with some sort of lubricant that won't contaminate fluids.

Tx Jim · Dec 19, 2015

I suggest to tap on plug with a small hammer. Sometimes tapping allows plug to break fee.

MarkB_MI · Dec 19, 2015

Put a brazing tip on your acetylene torch, then apply heat to the PLUG, not to the case. The plug can take a lot more heat than the case. Also, the case will quickly dissipate any heat you apply to it, so you have to heat the plug to heat up the threads. Once you get the plug hot enough, it will easily come out.

jon f mn · Dec 19, 2015

It's likely the problem is corrosion and not overtighening. Forget heat and use an impact wrench on it.

Leon R · Dec 19, 2015

try heating the plug and then apply candle wax. It will absorb into the treads. I had trouble removing a steel plug from an aluminium irrigation pipe. Would not budge until I tried the candle trick. It was still a tough pull with a pipe wrench and extension but nothing worked before that.

Tech 7 · Dec 19, 2015

I second the rapping it a few times with a hammer, or as I have starts doing a few light bursts with an air hammer. Its kinda like using ether though. More is NOT always better.

mj · Dec 19, 2015

Yep - 3/8 rattle gun first THEN heat snd the impact if it still won't give it up. :lol:

David G · Dec 19, 2015

I would put an impact and good 6 point socket on it.

1206SWMO · Dec 19, 2015

Its an internal plug that a 3/8th inch drive fits.....Its hard to find a drive that fits snug in it..

David G · Dec 19, 2015

Use a 1/2 to 3/8 impact adapter, push REAL hard and bump it out.

You press hard so the impact does not pop out.

Andy Martin · Dec 19, 2015

Do you really really need it out? Will the adjacent pan drain it? Some things are best left alone.

the tractor vet · Dec 19, 2015

What you need is a DRAIN PLUG socket set , there are two styles made one is a square drive that has real square corners and a hex style . Both styles are made for a 1/2 inch drive and yes you can use a LONG breaker bar on them . Mine are made by Mac tools and i have had them a LONG time . Some of them drain plugs under Farmalls can be really tight at time also.

1206SWMO · Dec 19, 2015

I have a new 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but it sure doesn't fit as snug as the Snap On 3/8th drive that I broke..I guess the worst that can happen is that I round it out and drill it out..I hope that I can put enough pressure to hold it in there....I'll bet that its been years since anyone bothered to check the oil....I've had several other Ford 5 speeds and never had problems...

1206SWMO · Dec 19, 2015

Thats both the oil level and filler plug...My guess is that it hasn't been checked in years and that the
transmission is low..I'm not going to pull the drain plug until I get the filler plug out..I'm sure it could use new
oil..

Jiles · Dec 19, 2015

(quoted from post at 04:37:00 12/20/15) What you need is a DRAIN PLUG socket set , there are two styles made one is a square drive that has real square corners and a hex style . Both styles are made for a 1/2 inch drive and yes you can use a LONG breaker bar on them . Mine are made by Mac tools and i have had them a LONG time . Some of them drain plugs under Farmalls can be really tight at time also.

Years ago, I ran into an almost exact problem.
A mechanic friend had a tool that assisted in removal.
He had a 4 or 5 inch 3/8 drive extension that had a hex in the center. Such a design that one could use a crescent wrench for operation.
I used a 3/8 drive impact wrench while I also turned it with an 8" crescent.
I have no idea where he got it or what it was called.
Today, I would try to make one by welding (correctly) a rod to serve as a handle.

Jim in MN · Dec 19, 2015

Son's pickup had one in the rear end that wouldn't budge. After rounding the hole out, I welded a bolt into the recess, let it sit for a few minutes, then it backed right out.

2x4 · Dec 19, 2015

grind off the end of an old 3/8ths extension until it is perfectly flat. They are rounded when new. I have had success using an air chisel. Before you put the plug back in, weld the extension to it.

Dr. Walt · Dec 19, 2015

1/2 inch Impact gun with a 1/2 to 3/8 Impact Adapter. And make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN of the Impact guns rotation - you certainly DON'T want to tighten it further.

37chief · Dec 20, 2015

Something about aluminum, and iron plugs. They like each other. I had a 1 inch iron plug in a oil pan on my motorcycle. I finally ended up putting the pan on my mill table, and cutting small cuts until I chipped the plug out. I wonder if you can drill and tap another size pipe plug in the plug? Stan

dzc3 · Dec 20, 2015

If all else fails what is the cover next to it? Get a rubber plug like used in jeep rear ends. Remove the "tin cover" correct size hole and insert rubber plug. Had to do this with an 87 GMC.

Phil9N3667 · Dec 20, 2015

This comes up more than you can believe with steel/aluminum together. Jim in Min had one excellent fix and I disagree with Dr. Walt. Anytime you have any pipe fittings together regardless of material incompatibility, if you can tighten it just a couple of degrees of rotation, you've broken it loose!! A friend showed/taught me this back in the early '90's and I do it almost very day at work on hydraulics on trucks/trailers an it works!! When you get it out, put it back in with some "anti-seize" compound on the threads and barely snug it up. Hope all the YT'ers here have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!

J.Wondergem · Dec 20, 2015

I would heat the plug up hot. Then let it cool down on it's own, maybe overnight. If you twist the shoulders out, weld a bolt to it, but again wait until it's cold before you put a force to it, or you could take the threads out with it.

OT-Getting Steel Filler Plug Out Of Aluminum Transmission

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