I believe you had a post a few months ago about fixing an older dehumidifier that had R22 by using R134 to bring it back to life. I have the same situation with a 25 yr old dehumidifier that is freezing up, which I assume is from low freon. Could you go over the procedure you used and the equipment one would need to do this. Thanks for any help you can provide.
- Thread starter bocomo
- Start date
Interesting, as R22 and R134A are not even CLOSE on the temperature-pressure charts, not to mention the lubricant incompatibility between mineral oils and R-134A.
Its off the chart
Its off the chart
I missed that post ? I have a few around that need fixed. Not worth paying someone to do them though. Problem is the new ones they sell are junk and your lucky to get one that works out of the box yet alone a year.
I still have a really old one limping along in the basement.
I still have a really old one limping along in the basement.
R 12 can be replaced by 134 just change the oil out. If you buy 134 from and HVAC supplier it has the same threads as r 12 systems, The flares not the acme and quick disconnects . I have converted all of my deeres by dumping the compresser oil and refilling with pag and the charging with 134. I have seen it done on some old refrigeration machines we have at work to. R 22 is no way close to the other two.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
I would say 25 years old, good chance you are low if it's freezing up.
Actually the dehumidifiers I've seen use R12. If you can get your hands on R12 it may be better. 134a is the drop in replacement. The pressures are different so don't mix. All my freon had leaked out. I I soldered in sharder valve on suction side and vacuumed out system. Then I filled it with 134a the old school way. Added 134a slowly, stopped when condensation showed up on all the evaporator tubes and a little came back on suction line. I have had luck using line taps too to add freon. Good luck.
Actually the dehumidifiers I've seen use R12. If you can get your hands on R12 it may be better. 134a is the drop in replacement. The pressures are different so don't mix. All my freon had leaked out. I I soldered in sharder valve on suction side and vacuumed out system. Then I filled it with 134a the old school way. Added 134a slowly, stopped when condensation showed up on all the evaporator tubes and a little came back on suction line. I have had luck using line taps too to add freon. Good luck.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
JohnT,
R12 was used on car AC, refrigerators, and dehumidiers, 134a was the replacement.
R22 was used on on residential AC's, 410a was the first replacement.
I've been out of it for a while, I think there may be other replacemens available or in the works. I'd have to ask BIL who is still in the business.
R12 was used on car AC, refrigerators, and dehumidiers, 134a was the replacement.
R22 was used on on residential AC's, 410a was the first replacement.
I've been out of it for a while, I think there may be other replacemens available or in the works. I'd have to ask BIL who is still in the business.
guido
Well-known Member
Hello Bob,
The poster has R22 George replaced R12 with 134a. I know people did it on automotive applications claiming success. There are R22 units out there. Not very economical to run. It's like running 5 or 6 thousand btu's window air condition unit. Last one I had in the shop was pulling 6 or 7 amps!
Guido.
The poster has R22 George replaced R12 with 134a. I know people did it on automotive applications claiming success. There are R22 units out there. Not very economical to run. It's like running 5 or 6 thousand btu's window air condition unit. Last one I had in the shop was pulling 6 or 7 amps!
Guido.
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