Best grease

ed in cny

Member
What is the best all around grease for these old tractors? I have an Allis, Oliver and International and as always they need maintenance. I want to treat these old tractors as best I can so I can enjoy them as long as I can. So any thoughts on what grease would be recommended, thanks.
 
I'll tell you what to stay away from and that is the cheap "mud" that many suppliers sell including TSC. The stuff is sediment heavy and over time it makes fittings difficult to grease when the material dries out. I would use a name brand regular grease or store brand premium multi-purpose. Since you will only use maybe a couple tubes per year it is worth the extra few dollars to know you can pump fittings without difficulty. I've used Deere's grease and am satisfied. When we could get it Texaco had pretty good grease. I've used New Holland due to dealer closeness in a pinch and that has worked good also.
 
Hard to know what your getting any more.
I like to take the cap off ad inspect it. I don't like the red stuff or the sticky stuff. I like a light slippery grease bluish green or amber in color. One that will gather some dust and wash off. Not sticky goo. Pretty hard to find anymore.
 
My bother in law is a millwright and at his place of employment a salesman sold him the supposed "ultimate quality grease" (and I've forgotten the brand name) for about $20 a tube. He brought it to me to test on my metal to metal tester apparatus. He was not pleased to find out that the $20 a tube grease had less metal to metal protection than the cheapest grease at about $3 a tube that I was using on my machinery. The best grease I've come across I have no name of but you can't wipe it off metal or your hands or it will not wash out of your clothes let alone get pressure washed off your equipment. This was used on a second hand excavator I bought. Any grease that is easy to clean up or wipe off has a short duty cycle in any bushing. In machines like backhoes and excavators you can usually hear (not talking about squeaking) and feel when the bushings are calling for more grease. I'm sorry I don't have a brand name that I can call "the best grease"...but you can do a little self testing.
 
Any lubrication is better than none. Keep grease in bearings by greasing often. For plain bearings, (bushings) a moly (molylebdeum) spelling?? is best. The moly acts like little ball bearings, but if the grease is allowed to dry out the little ball bearings now act as a lapping compound. I am a retired mill mechanic/machinist and one of our engineers explained this to me. I haven't bothered to get a moly grease for my plain bearings though, I just try to grease often. Sealed ball bearings can be greased by carefully getting a small smooth pick or screwdriver under the inside of the seal and carefully prying it out, putting some grease in, and carefully, with your thumbs and maybe a screwdriver working the seal back into the outside of the bearing. Shielded bearings can be greased by carefully drilling a small hole, 1/16" or less in the shield, injecting grease, clean the hole area with solvent, and put a small dab of silicone gasket maker over the hole.
 
For most applications , I like that red grease. It seems to have STP or some other additive that makes it sticky and really stay in place. I use it on wheel bearings and bushings all the time . The worst grease I ever saw was that White lube made by Fisk Bros. It was dry and stiff very quickly. The light brown or clear greases are lithium based and they are a good quality too ....
 
I like the red grease, and the blue grease, very tacky. Every manufacturer has a variety of it, all seems very good.

Ross
 
(quoted from post at 15:03:37 11/13/15) Any lubrication is better than none. Keep grease in bearings by greasing often. For plain bearings, (bushings) a moly (molylebdeum) spelling?? is best. The moly acts like little ball bearings, but if the grease is allowed to dry out the little ball bearings now act as a lapping compound. I am a retired mill mechanic/machinist and one of our engineers explained this to me. I haven't bothered to get a moly grease for my plain bearings though, I just try to grease often. Sealed ball bearings can be greased by carefully getting a small smooth pick or screwdriver under the inside of the seal and carefully prying it out, putting some grease in, and carefully, with your thumbs and maybe a screwdriver working the seal back into the outside of the bearing. Shielded bearings can be greased by carefully drilling a small hole, 1/16" or less in the shield, injecting grease, clean the hole area with solvent, and put a small dab of silicone gasket maker over the hole.

The advantage of moly grease is that it forms a very tough film on the metal surface, so that if your grease goes away that coating will protect the metal for some time, until it is worn away.
 
Mobil 1 red synthetic is premium quality sticky tough to remove from metal, and high temperature stable. Ford specification Graphite grease is spec'ed for wheel bearings and also has high temp aspects. Jim
 
i've had good luck with Swepco 105, a little pricey though. I got a million six on one of those funky Hendrickson tube axle(have to replace the axle if king pins wear out)pos. not a lick of wear in the bushings even.
 
Cheap grease is fine in old loose, slow moving equipment. The most important thing is to grease regularly to push dirt out of the greased joint. Grease is the cheapest spare part you will ever buy.
 
We used to get some grease from the Exxon distributer that would harden in about 6 mo's on a machine. I understand that clay is mixed in some formulas to help it stay in place ...
 
For mowers and old tractors I use the Lucas red super tacky. I like it a lot.

When I first got the 9500 combine I used regular grease on it at the required intervals. All of the straw walker bearings went out the first summer when the machine was only a couple of years old. The tech said,"Have you been using John Deere grease?" I hadn't. He reamed me a new one. I have used their grease on that machine and all of the Deere equipment since. I haven't had a straw walker bearing go again in about 1500 hours since. It is good stuff but I think it's about $10 a tube. I don't know - I just get a case and they bill me. I don't use it on machines that are older. Loose equipment can use the Lucas grease.
 
Bulk grease is much cheaper than tubes. I buy it in a 120 pound barrel. The cheapest grease is better than not enough of the best grease you can buy. I have trucks with over a million miles on with the original bushings and spring pins. They are still tight. They also have most of the original u-joints in them. I grease them every 3-5,000 miles.
So the best grease is the one that is in the bearing.
 
I try to use John Deere HD lithium Complex grease TY24416. I've also used regular John Deere lithium grease quite a bit. PT507 There isn't really enough of a price difference to justify the lower quality of the PT507
 
(quoted from post at 15:03:37 11/13/15) Any lubrication is better than none. Keep grease in bearings by greasing often. For plain bearings, (bushings) a moly (molylebdeum) spelling?? is best. The moly acts like little ball bearings, but if the grease is allowed to dry out the little ball bearings now act as a lapping compound. I am a retired mill mechanic/machinist and one of our engineers explained this to me. I haven't bothered to get a moly grease for my plain bearings though, I just try to grease often. Sealed ball bearings can be greased by carefully getting a small smooth pick or screwdriver under the inside of the seal and carefully prying it out, putting some grease in, and carefully, with your thumbs and maybe a screwdriver working the seal back into the outside of the bearing. Shielded bearings can be greased by carefully drilling a small hole, 1/16" or less in the shield, injecting grease, clean the hole area with solvent, and put a small dab of silicone gasket maker over the hole.


My opinion:MollyB is just about the worst grease there is.When the carrier drys out or drains out you've got a problem.
 
exxon grease hardins in 6 months ?? if you're only greasing every 6 months, hard grease is the least of your problems
 
Depends on the use for me:

For wheel bearings I pack them all with a decent quality Valvoline grease rated for the GM and Chrysler OE spec job. I buy this in grease gun tubes so I can also use it on other stuff that is worthy of a decent grease. (it roughly $4.50 a tube at O'Reillys).

For my old worn junky farm equipment; I use the Rural King brand #2 cheapo stuff that can be bought for 97 cents a tube on sale. The key though is that I grease frequently and often with it. A lot of my stuff sits outside and is well worn to boot. Expensive grease would not stay where it needs to be any longer than the cheap stuff. I fully grease everything before use and most of my stuff is then lucky if it sees an hour or two of work since I such a small time hobbyist. My hay rakes do get additional squirts each raking trip over the fields so they getting fresh cheapo grease every 4 to 6 acres.
 
Well thanks guys for this great info on grease. I agree with what some of you said in the fact that bad grease is at least better than no grease. I agree 100% with that. The ideas of replenishing it or servicing these girls often will save the trouble in the long run as well. I have been wondering though that none of you spoke of corn head grease John Deere sells. It 3 something a tube. It looked to be what some use in steering boxes and such. Just wondering what other apps it could be used for?

Anyways thanks again for the advice and info. I'll do some shopping around and see what these greases have that make them what they are. I'm sold on keeping these things alive as long as I can for someone later to enjoy like I am now.
 
do you have a farm coop near you? grease made for and sold by them is designed for H.D.farm use. Most different coops use a different brand name for their grease. Stop in and talk to their petroleum specialist.
 
Hard to know what your getting any more.
I like to take the cap off ad inspect it. I don't like the red stuff or the sticky stuff. I like a light slippery grease bluish green or amber in color. One that will gather some dust and wash off. Not sticky goo. Pretty hard to find anymore.
 

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