- Thread starter Cooter143
- Start date
Is that the door or the doorframe? Not that it really matters. I would cut the corner welds on the flange that goes into the firebox. That way you would weaken it enough to be able to clamp to a flat surface. Then I would cut flat bars, 1/4 x 2 or wider the length of each side and stand them up on the front surface and tack them in place. Then go around and place short intermediate length welds around the perimeter. Then re-weld the corner welds that you cut open in the first place. That should keep it flat. Be careful not to add too much weld in any one location as that will tend to make it warp again. There is (asbestos type) gasket material available to use between the mating surfaces. You might have to modify the hinge holes to move the door out the gasket material thickness.
Bob Harvey
Well-known Member
Yep. BUT, you will need a person with Blacksmith skills. Heating here, clamping there etc. HTH
Cooter143- Not really enough information provided...so I have to assume a few things.
Looks like a front face (frame) and not really the doors that is installed in an existing
fireplace. If this is the case...just drill 4 holes, one in each corner. Then drill matching
holes into front of fireplace. Attach the fireplace 'Front' to the fireplace using Tapcon screws
which will draw the frame snug against the face of the fireplace.
Looks like a front face (frame) and not really the doors that is installed in an existing
fireplace. If this is the case...just drill 4 holes, one in each corner. Then drill matching
holes into front of fireplace. Attach the fireplace 'Front' to the fireplace using Tapcon screws
which will draw the frame snug against the face of the fireplace.
Great, thanks everybody. I didn't title the post right, that is the frame and the doors attach to it. Greg, I'll see if I can make that work. It will still need straightened some because when the doors are installed, they don't close right. There is an Amish blacksmith down the road, I'll see if he can straighten it out.
cooter143- " Greg, I'll see if I can make that work. It will still need straightened some because when the doors are installed, they don't close right. There is an Amish blacksmith down the road, I'll see if he can straighten it out." Have you already re-installed the frame and secured it using Tapcon(type) screws? If so, I don't see why you need to take it to a Blacksmith for 'adjustment'. It should be square and plumb without the need for a Blacksmith and seal correctly.
I'm confused?????
I'm confused?????
You're right, sorry I'm not being clear. I had shifted my thinking to how to reinstall the frame, since the way it was designed was flawed. I'll post a pic separately and show you what I'm working with here. I'll explain in the post with the pic, but the outer frame portion doesn't seat against anything that I am able to anchor to. The smaller portion joined to the back has some anchor bolts that push up against the inside of the fireplace to hold it in. The expanding metal has no way to go, and that how it warped. Instead of pushing, the Tapcon screws should allow for the expansion but it doesn't fix the warped frame. Let me go get a picture, that'll help.
cooter143- From the 'soot' lines that I see in the pic, it looks like you have enough room to anchor the 'face plate' onto the the fireplace. Just drill at opposing angles and the Tapcons should 'pull the 'face plate' in nicely.
When I mention drilling for anchor screws, I am talking about 2 1/2" to 4 inches of anchor.
When I mention drilling for anchor screws, I am talking about 2 1/2" to 4 inches of anchor.
cooter143- Thanks for the pic. Now I can see what you are talking about.
First, get angle grinder with wire wheel and clean the steel surrounding the frame insert.. Then 'wire wheel' the "lip" on the Face Plate.
Once those are clean, secure the Face Plate as stated.
Then seal with High Heat Fireplace Mortar. Heck, even Home Depot has this product.
Poke here
First, get angle grinder with wire wheel and clean the steel surrounding the frame insert.. Then 'wire wheel' the "lip" on the Face Plate.
Once those are clean, secure the Face Plate as stated.
Then seal with High Heat Fireplace Mortar. Heck, even Home Depot has this product.
Poke here
he pic might make it look like there is more there than there is. At the most, there might be 1 inch of lip in some places. Drilling at an angle might allow me to get it in there, but I'm afraid the high angle required will reduce the tightening force to flatten the frame. You've given me some ideas to work with, I'll just have to stare at it for a little while longer!
No I didn't remove it, the pictures aren't doing a good job of showing the set up. That metal (insert)frame you see in the lower picture is almost flush with the mortar you see in the upper picture. I just got real close in the second one and it makes it look like it sits lower than it does. Also, in the second picture the door frame sits all the way out to the right near the stone. It is about four inches away from that insert frame. They don't come close to touching. The space in between them was filled with insulation. I'd have to cut the door down to get back in there against the insert. I'm not sure I'm doing a good job of explaining it, but the problem is nothing seats up against anything else. The door frame was just sitting out in front of the insert, before.
Stubborn Dutchman
Member
I think you can get most of that warp out fairly easily. I have over ten years experience straightening frames on steel parts racks in a
plating plant. Here is how i would tackle your problem. I would place three 2" blocks of wood under the frame and clamp it to a table.
This is to raise the frame off the table so you can take a heavy duty c clamp and draw down the corner that sticks up. Go slowly and over
draw slightly. Repeat until it looks flat. Once close, simply lay the frame on a flat surface to check for true. I think you will be
surprised how close you can get it. Then reinstall with some sealant to fill whatever small gap remains.
Good luck.
Don
plating plant. Here is how i would tackle your problem. I would place three 2" blocks of wood under the frame and clamp it to a table.
This is to raise the frame off the table so you can take a heavy duty c clamp and draw down the corner that sticks up. Go slowly and over
draw slightly. Repeat until it looks flat. Once close, simply lay the frame on a flat surface to check for true. I think you will be
surprised how close you can get it. Then reinstall with some sealant to fill whatever small gap remains.
Good luck.
Don
(quoted from post at 22:34:02 11/06/15)
The metal you see is about 4 inches back from where the frame sits. When installed, the frame was set in there and mortared in to seal it so it was never pulled tight up against anything.
You cant mount the face/door frame solidly to the fireplace insert (or metal support framework). If you do, the uneven heating and cooling (which means expansion and contraction), things will break and warp. Mortar should [b:ffa52f1232]never[/b:ffa52f1232] be against anything metal, much less metal that expands and contracts as much as a fireplace. The mortar you mentioning being in there could have caused the warping. More likely though, it was the mounting bolts not allowing the door frame to move through the heat cycles. Mounting bolts should barely be tighter than finger tight and always have washers so the frame can slide under the bolts.
Straighten your door frame.
Make sure you mount bolts allow movement and are not too tight.
Keep anything solid out of the door frame gap (including mortar). Fill will fiberglass rope.
Skip the tapcon idea, thats heading you further down the road you are comming from (failure). Head in the opposite direction (allowing movement).
Janicholson
Well-known Member
I agree and would recommend putting metal angle tabs on the reinforcement plate farther in the opening with tubular standoffs holding the frame at the correct distance outward. Loose nuts, or belleville washers just snug, to allow frame expansion. To make it more spark proof, a flat ledge of fire cement could be put behind the flat of the frame, allowing the frame to expand and contract sideways while limiting the in and out travel
A fire door rope seal could be used under the flange and against the cement! Jim
A fire door rope seal could be used under the flange and against the cement! Jim
Andy Martin
Well-known Member
Let the blacksmith flatten it. Not a hard job to cut the flanges, pull it straight, and reweld it.
Thanks to all for the advice. I think it needs to be re-welded, it just springs back and forth when I try to clamp it. There is a guy just down the road that can do it for me, so I'll run it down to him this week. Fortunately it's been really warm here all Fall, so I haven't need it yet.
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