Campers - manuals

Anyone know of a website/forum that gives wiring (and plumbing?) information (general or specific) on campers? I honestly know nothing about them but I've been looking at bumper pulls for a while and realize that in the price range I'm looking I need to know how to do some repairs.

Dhermesc,Here you go
Camper manuals

The wiring and plumbing is not difficult once you get the concept.

There are 2 sets of wiring, 120v circuits that are fed from the incoming power cord, to a breaker box and out to the outlets and any AC powered accessories if equipped. One of the breakers will feed the 12 VDC power supply that charges the battery, and powers the lights, and any other 12v accessories. Some items, like the refrigerator, water heater and furnace are powered by 120v, 12v, and propane. Nearly all RV's are 120v/30a service. Very, very few are 220v. Be sure what you have before connecting it!

The fresh water plumbing is done in plastic pipe with compression fittings. Usually the fittings and pipe need to come from an RV supply. I haven't found it at hardware stores. There is a storage tank for fresh water with a pressure pump. You can also connect to city water if available. One good thing about RV plumbing, most of the plumbing is readily accessible under cabinets, beds, access panels. Very little is closed inside walls like a house.

The waste water will go to either the "gray water" tank, for the sink and shower water, or the "black water" tank, for the toilet. They can be held and drained, or connected to a flex line and ran to sewer. The drain components are typically ABS pipe.

The entire water system must be drained in cold weather. There are caps underneath that will drain the system. They make RV antifreeze, safe and non toxic, but I prefer to drain.

Don't be afraid of it, it's really simple.Lots of Youtube info, or ask at the RV dealer. They have showrooms full of parts and gadgets. Nice to look at, be aware though, RV dealers are ruthless when it comes to over charging! Check prices online or substitute when you can!

I'm primarily looking at small tow behind campers to use as a mobile hunting cabin. Basically a place to bed down for the night and hopefully wake up not frozen or killed by a poorly vented heater. How does a battery work in the system? Is everything 12V in the camper then or does it use an inverter - or "depends"?


I am looking at an OOOOOLLLLLDDDDD Aristocrat (1970 or so). No leaks, been stored in a barn for decades. Everything is old and of questionable operating ability - worked when last used - by the guy's grandfather. Instead of trying to get the old AC unit to work (looks like a 1960s window unit) would I be better off putting in a roof mount? Can you get roof mounts with the heater included (don't trust the old propane heater either) or what would you use for a seperate heater? For $400 I figure I can't go to wrong. Every camper I've looked at needs several of the same things - and usually have a questionably repaired roof and a couple thousand dollar price tag. This one at least looks solid - just needs the HVAC updated and a dorm room fridge installed. It has the sink and stove but that will be something to worry about next spring if he uses during the fair to watch 4H projects.

Does the site you're going to have electricity? All air conditioners require electricity, won't run on battery. If so, a roof mount ac would be the way to go. You can get them with heat but the price gets high. Be sure the roof can support it though, may have to brace it if any doubt.

As for heat, there are 2 choices, electric or propane. Electric is cheapest, simple space heaters will do what you are wanting. Propane is going to require an RV furnace which runs on propane and 12 volt controls. If there is no electricity, that's the only safe way to heat it.

There is no inverter unless you want to add one to run a very light 120v load if there is no electricity available. Typically all there is is a heavy duty battery or 2 batteries to get the run time up, that run all the 12v lighting, water pump, etc. You start with fully charged batteries, run till they're discharged. Then when you can plug into power, charge them up, use the 12v stuff while it's plugged in. Or you can connect to the tow vehicle and charge them up.

Those old campers weren't really designed for cold weather use. The insulation was minimal, windows leaked, drafty... Again, it depends on what power you have available. If electric, add up the amperage of your heat, be sure not to overload the available service or the power cord. But don't under estimate the needed heat. Might want to do a few trial runs at home before heading to the woods!

If you are looking for a used one, be sure to check the roof for leaks. My friend had his roof come loose going down the road a few weeks ago. Things get rotten real quick when water gets in. When you get your unit go to the manufacture for manuals. If you are lucky you may get something with the manual still in it. Stan

Check out tin can tourists on the web and facebook. Lots of good stuff there.

Roof air on a vintage trailer can cause the roof to sag and then leak no matter how much goop you use. Better off using a window unit on the front or back end.

Don't plan on using one when the temp falls to freezing as if it does all your plumming will freeze up. Also they only have 1 1/2" of bat insulation in, think mostly for noise control. And windows are only single pane and heat will realy fast go out them and are usually not tight, just enough to keep out rain.