I have a 1965 John Deer 2010 it warms up and you put it under load and it will stall out. I have change distributor, plugs, coil, carb. And nothing makes it better. New ms carb made it stop back firing but not giving it power. Have good gas flow and spark. Just no power and it will kill it with 5 foot king kutter brush hog on it. Can anyone help me please. I know biggest prob with it is name and paint color. Someone please help me.
- Thread starter Build4Him
- Start date
steve_in_mo
Well-known Member
That tractor wasn't JD's best idea.
Still, the carb should not have anything to do with a backfire. Does the distributor advance work? Is the ignition timing correct?
Is the governor working? By that, I mean this: Does the governor open the carburetor butterfly when you put a load on the engine? You should be able to hear a change in the sound from the engine. The linkage may be bound, incorrectly adjusted, and/or the throttle shaft might not let the butterfly open.
Does the fuel system really provide enough flow when the engine is loaded? Sorry to be crude, but it takes a stream bigger than you can make with a full bladder.
Do you have good compression on all four cylinders?
Still, the carb should not have anything to do with a backfire. Does the distributor advance work? Is the ignition timing correct?
Is the governor working? By that, I mean this: Does the governor open the carburetor butterfly when you put a load on the engine? You should be able to hear a change in the sound from the engine. The linkage may be bound, incorrectly adjusted, and/or the throttle shaft might not let the butterfly open.
Does the fuel system really provide enough flow when the engine is loaded? Sorry to be crude, but it takes a stream bigger than you can make with a full bladder.
Do you have good compression on all four cylinders?
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Build4Him
Welcome to YT.
IMHO 2010 gasoline engines were some of JD's better running 4 cylinder gasoline engines. Have you checked engine compression. Is spark advance is distributor operating correctly?
Hay maker2
Member
Unless your engine is completly worn out I would not bother checking the commpression. Check the manifold and replace the gasket as it could have holes in the manifold or the gaskets could be shot. If this is the case, then the air to fuel ratio will never be correct and your tractor will run as you stated, I have been there and done that with my 1965 John deere 2010. Get a JD service manual and correctly set the throtle linkage and or replace the worn bell crank ends on the linkage as this will not allow the governor to open properly. After this I would adjust the load needle on the carb.
With this being said, do you know it one cylinder keeps fouiling out or is it all four cylinders?
With this being said, do you know it one cylinder keeps fouiling out or is it all four cylinders?
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
IMHO checking compression on a gasoline engine is one of the simpler diagnostic steps to take.
I will not commet on rest of tractor but that engine was a very good engine. 145 CU IN andpowered the round back 45 combines and with a different deck plate and pistons it was downgraded in power 115 CU IN for the 1010 tractors and the 40 combine, later upgraded with still a different deck plate and pistons to a 165 CU IN engine and powered the first generation square back 45 combines, not sure if that version was put in a tractor or not but might have been in the 2510 tractor. Have had 2 of the 145 and 1 of the 165 engines in the combines and a very good engine. Different govener setup on combines to get rid of variable engine speed as combine requires either an idle or a full open speed. Now the diesel was a different story.
Hay maker2
Member
You are 100% correct that it is a simple step to take, but a gas engine will run just fine with low compression as long as the air to fuel ratio is correct and there is a good spark. Now, if the compression gets extremly low, then it will cuase issues.
Correct air to fuel ratio and a good spark is the key to any gas engine.
Correct air to fuel ratio and a good spark is the key to any gas engine.
Determined
Well-known Member
Hay maker2
Member
Whether they check ompression or not, a gasoline engine will run fine on low compression regardless of make or model. Yes, there is a time and place to check compression, but first check the air to fuel ratio, manifold, gaskets, ingition system. I also assume, and you know what assuming does...He does not own a compression tester becuase he probably would of trested it by now.
To many times people see low compression on a gasoline engine and they think that is the issue when in fact its something with the air to fuel ration, air or fuel restriction, or ignition system.
To many times people see low compression on a gasoline engine and they think that is the issue when in fact its something with the air to fuel ration, air or fuel restriction, or ignition system.
I had a livestock feed customer a long time ago that had 2 , 2010 John Derre's. I ask him one day, " why two of the same tractor" his reply was,
"well, the first one wasn't worth a damn, and I bought a second one and I was right. They're not worth a damn". He traded both for a 4020 and
was happy.
"well, the first one wasn't worth a damn, and I bought a second one and I was right. They're not worth a damn". He traded both for a 4020 and
was happy.
Bob N.Y.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Norway, N.Y.
Have you checked the air cleaner?
none of plugs fowl out. It idles like a dream had to get a carb because the none replaceable seat on idle set screw would not close it would let fuel fill up the bowl plus let gas fill the air inlet from breather tube. What did u mean by bell ends. I was wondering bout the intake manifold. But I am upside down on the dad gum tractor don't want to put anymore in it without it being the fix. Had a guy out to work on it he said the timing was right. I have adjusted it with new carb even thought about firing order. I think it is 1342 counter clock wise. Like I said idles fine give it full throttle starts its crap turn pto on it goes down hill. Any help is greatly appreciated.
M-MAN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bostic, NC
Running good with no power if I'm reading correctly? Four things come to mind quick. 1st is timing. Set it with a timing light by the book. 2nd is the dist advance stuck? If you change the throttle position after you set the initial timing you can see the light move away from the mark if it isn't. 3rd Is governor set and working correctly? If you move the throttle arm on the carb while it's running you can feel the governor pulling it back. 4th Are you positive you got the correct carb?
You do need a service manual.
You do need a service manual.
Hay maker2
Member
Check the joints for wear. Items #4 and #15 on the attached picture, also inspect the rest of the joints in the linkage. You need to set the linkage according to the manual, replace the componets accordingly.
Inspect the intake manifold and gasket for holes. If the manifold is original, then most likely there are holes in it. There are after market manifolds avalible that are priced resonable. And adjust the load on the carb.
Send me an email and I will see if I can copy the linkage and carb section of the JD manual.
Inspect the intake manifold and gasket for holes. If the manifold is original, then most likely there are holes in it. There are after market manifolds avalible that are priced resonable. And adjust the load on the carb.
Send me an email and I will see if I can copy the linkage and carb section of the JD manual.
Hay maker2
Member
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