7700 Ford Tractor

I have a 7700 Ford tractor that I replaced the clutch in. The transmission is acting like the clutch isn't disengaging. I can see through the starter hole the throw out bearing releasing the clutch. It has a new pilot bearing, throw out bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disc. I anti seized the splines on the shaft before putting it all back together. I have tried every adjustment that I can think of yet still no luck. when started in gear the tractor moves and the clutch does not slip at all. Also the PTO is not affected. If anybody has any suggestions please feel free to share.

Not sure about that particular clutch, but most clutch discs have the springs offset to the rear. Put it in backward they hit the flywheel bolts and will not disengage.

The only real adjustment on those things aside from the pressure plate is the free travel adjustment on the pedal. It is possible that the pressure plate was not correctly set up on the new clutch. I assume that was a reman? Beyond that... only other things that come to mind are that you left out some shims on the pressure plate (if it had them), the pinch bolt is broken in the clutch cross shaft... but that's unlikely since you say the release bearing is pushing ahead.... or the most probable fault... you got the disc in backwards. It happens....
At this point I'd probably just split her open again and have a look. If the disc is bent that would be your clue... You can try straightening the disc but that's as much voodoo as science and really you're probably better off buying a new disc IF you have bent this one...

Rod

Hi
I have never done a clutch in one of those, but with other clutches I have seen the flywheel machined so the clutch disc center rivets or other
parts hit the flywheel/crankshaft mounting bolts, and the clutch drags like you describe right on first start. Like others said disc in wrong way
round and it drags , or a reman clutch cover thats been machined down to far, then rivets for say a pto drive shaft boss catch the clutch disc, or
something else in the cover to the disc. If you got free travel in the pedal or set as it should be, with the tractor running in a higher gear and
clutch pedal pressed stand on the brakes and see if it stops, if it does any of the above or you bent the disc putting the 2 halves back together.
It don't take much drag on a rivet or bolt head or bent disc for that clutch to bind up on and still drive.
Kinda sounds like you might be re splitting, but if it stops with the brakes on you might see the marks on components where a rivet or something
rubs as it touches.
I had a Belarus here that did this split it 3 times couldn't find the problem or adjust it to get it right, never found anything you could see
wrong. I put another brand new assembly in and it worked fine. Something was off in that first new clutch and we never did find out what. That
tractor was like you describe but it stopped driving with the brakes on and I couldn't see any rub marks either.
Regards Robert

I replaced the clutch in a JD 350 dozer one time. Everything was in specs, but the clutch was not engaging as it should. Took it out 3 times before I discovered that one of the linkage pins between the clutch pedal and the clutch was almost worn in two. That allowed enough slop so that nothing worked correctly, but you could not see the wear without removing the pin. I don't believe this is your problem, but it should be checked.

I had a very odd deal on mine years ago. The clutch pedal attached to the shaft going into the tranny was not weldd right. At 400 hours the
pedal slowly slipped on the shaft..

Paul

Took my JD 5400 loader tractor in for a replacement clutch about a year ago ( I am not equipped for doing this). The brand new clutch from Deere was less expensive than a reman, so I went that way. First one from Deere had a spot that was not machined correctly, so i was told, and stayed engaged at all times regardless of adjustment. Poor guy split that tractor like four times before they decided to get another new clutch, which worked perfectly right off. When I got it home, the PTO would barely turn itself- they forgot to readjust the linkage after swapping the new clutches.

Sorry for the confused message, reminder not to be replying while being hauled home at night in the back of the relatives Preuis through Iowa at night..... I barely make sense in the daylight while stationary.....

Anyhow, my 7700 with about 4000 hours started having clutch issues, it would grind gears. Kept getting worse, slightly, every week. Adjusted the linkage and seemed fine for a few days, then not. Actually got to the point I made my own, longer, linkage......

Looked it over for the 100th time, and realized the shaft coming out of the tranny the clutch linkage attaches to was badly welded, cold weld. The linkage arm was only press fitted onto the shaft, the weld was not holding anything, and the arm would slightly rotate on the shaft.

About drove me nuts to figure that one out, several good mechanics were saying I couldn't have happen what was happening, something must really be messed up inside....

An odd and unlikely thing to happen, but - it did to me.

Paul