Tractor Tire-old rim new tubeless tire

We've got an old tractor rim, one with the steel plate wheel riveted on, that we plan to put brand new tires on. The new tire says it is tubeless. Normally we just use a tube anyhow.

But has anyone ever tired a new tubeless tractor tire on an old tractor rim and care to tell if it held, or if they had to put a tube in it due to the old rim not being air tight?
 
Put a new rear tire on a big old Ford backhoe once. The rim was the typical dirty, rusty, messed up thing. The old tire had a tube in it, so we put it back in. Then we had a slow leak! I can't remember if we tried to fix it, but we eventually just pulled the tube out, installed a valve stem in the rim, and no leak!

An issue I've had with trying to inflate tubeless new rear tractor tires, even on new rims, is getting them spread out enough to hold. I gave up on one, took it back to the tire guy, and he sold me a tube!

As you describe your situation, I agree with Dieseltech.
 
My cat grader from 1936 has 24.5 truck tires mounted on the original 24 inch tube type rims. The tapered bead of a modern tubeless truck tire sealed just fine. I was worried where the stop block was riveted to the rim might leak but there's just one tire of the 4 I have to add air to every year or two
 
I have mounted many implement tires and a few rear tires tubeless. The rims are welded and not riveted together. I used bead sealer or flex-seal on the bead to keep the bead from seeping. I usually have to use starting fluid to mount a big tire. The good thing about mounting them tubeless is that you can then use a 5 minute string repair for thorn and nail holes. Also Multi-seal or Ultra seal (not Slime) works good in the tires.
 
I don't know if it really makes a difference or not, but the results are good whatever the cause. I have a Ford 2000 tractor. In that past two years I have had both of the rear tires replaced by the guys at our local Farmer's Co-Op. The rims were rusted pretty badly. The installer wire brushed the rims to remove any loose rust, then wrapped the rim from side to side, all the way around the rims, with duct tape.

Then he installed new tubes and added whatever liquid they use now days for extra weight.

So far, so good.

Tom in TN
 
If you look at a tubeless type rim and a tube type rim in the bead area you will see they are different and that difference can and will make it so the tube type rim will forever leak
 
I did the work on the township grader for many years. We found that using tubes was better than tubeless. Running tubeless, the plys would tend to separate. Also we got them recapped & there were a lot of them that they wouldn't cap if they were run tubeless.
 
If the center is riveted to the rim you should use a tube. A large diameter tire has a lot of bead area to have a chance for leaks already without having rivets leaking.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top