Roosa Master Inj Pump

Mike1990323

New User
I have a ford powermaster 861. Story behind this tractor is, My Father-in-law got this tractor from his uncle when he was given a farm
before his uncle past away. Last year we noticed fuel in the crank case. And the tractor sat for over a year. I went and replaced the
unbrella seals in the roosa master pump. Started it up and wouldn't shut down and would want to surge the idle all over the place. I ended
up having the rest of the reseal kit for the pump, as it was cheaper to but the whole kit. Now what happened was the plastic ring
deteriorated away. I took the pump apart and resealed the whole pump and put it back together. I did watch Steve Watroba on you tube and
follow the book i found online. But now my problem is, the pump is not pumping fuel. Like its airlocked. I have cranked and cranked. Nothing
coming out of it. I have taken the pump back apart and everything in in correctly. The metering valve is working correctly. I am at a loss.
Any ideas?
Thank you,
Michael
 
Yes, Everything was fine. From what i could tell.
I did follow the instructions from http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product%20Manual/99523.pdf
 
Did you happen to take the pumping plungers out of the rotor. They sometimes form a slight ridge around the hole they come out and when you put them back in they can stick. Fast is, I never even take them out anymore as it is unnecessary . They have to rattle back and forth freely when you shake the rotor. Another thing is the deliver valve stop screw, tight or missing. Also, o-ring on primary pressure regulating assembly or sticking regulator piston. Is metering valve opening up far enough, smoke screw turning in too far limiting movement. Internal governor linkage adjusted correctly (critical adjustment if you loosed adjusting screw).
 
You certainly could not have flipped the cam ring over? Don't ask how I know about this. Ford 841.

Tom
 
Yes i did take them out to clean and make sure everything was fine with them. I will take the pump back apart today and see if they move freely. I don't know if this pump has ever been rebuilt / resealed. so i did it to make sure. Metering valve is opening fine, just like it did, i never messed with the smoke screw. As far as the internal governor linkage, Which screw are you talking about?
 
Like 4435 stated I would bet that you flipped the cam ring over on the transfer pump. They injections pumps are designed to turn either way if the fuel transfer pump is pumping pressure.
 
I went ahead and tore the pump back down but the head. Looks like everything bottom end is fine, Guess i will need to take the head apart and see whats going on in it.
 
Here is something I used to do after repairing a few pumps that I felt it took too much cranking with the starter to get them going. Also, I gives you the satisfaction that the pump actually does pump and most of all, will shut off . I just fashion a bracket on the side rail of tractor or anyplace within reach of the fuel supply line. Hook up the supply and put the old speed handle wrench on and crank away. When a fuel pump shop gets done with a pump, everything inside is primed up so to speak. When you don't have a test bench , it is all dry, full of air. Hooking a gauge onto the primary pump test port will also go a long way to show if primary pump is building pressure. At cranking speed it won't show much but has to show some. I think if you put the cam ring in backwards it will still pump some, just wrong time, but if liner in primary is backwards, I don't think it will pump any. Never tried it, just from what I have heard. Depending on your application, you may have to remove the drive housing from tractor, but I just had one from a junker. I even jerry rigged a shaft with a seal on it so it did not have to remove the drive from tractor. Electricians tape will even do the trick and any contamination from your make shift shaft is on the return side so will not get into working parts of pump if anyone is worried about that.
 

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