Treflan question

I know somebody that has some in the liquid form that has a partial container they are willing to give me. Does Treflan freeze out? I know this stuff is not kept in a warm area during the winter. I have fought using chemicals in the garden but I have had arm issues for most of the year so I have not been able to hoe much. For next year I want to have control on weeds. The label shows crops and rates but if there was anything about not freezing I did not see it and I know the full label was not on it.

"Back in the day" (30 years ago) when we used it on wheat and sunflowers here on the tundra, freezing over one winter didn't hurt it. Dunno about now, or how many winters yours has endured, or how cold it gets where you are, tho.

On the other hand, what about PREEN, which (as I understand it) is basically a vegetable glue that seals the surface of the garden soil and makes it hard for later-emerging plants (weeds) to break through and has other effects on their germination/emergence.
PREEN

(quoted from post at 20:55:50 08/20/15) "Back in the day" (30 years ago) when we used it on wheat and sunflowers here on the tundra, freezing over one winter didn't hurt it. Dunno about now, or how many winters yours has endured, or how cold it gets where you are, tho.

On the other hand, what about PREEN, which (as I understand it) is basically a vegetable glue that seals the surface of the garden soil and makes it hard for later-emerging plants (weeds) to break through and has other effects on their germination/emergence.
PREEN

Click to expand...

PREEN contains Trufluralin same active ingredient as Treflan

If you are having trouble with grass in your garden use Clethodim 2EC. Local farm stores have it around here. Works on vegetables and most flowers even. Its the same as the old Poast we used on beans way back when.

correction: "Poast" contains the active ingredient sethoxydim. "Select" and others contain the active ingredient clethodim. different chemical, same family, same mode of action, and generally similar crops but READ THE LABEL!!

For all the "dims" and "fops" (eg Fusilade/fluazifop etc) they are post emergent to weeds only- must be absorbed through leaf tissue.

Treflan/trifluralin and others in its family eg Prowl/pendimethalin are mostly if not entirely absorbed by root tissue so must be applied pre emergence to weeds.

as for the OP I'm not sure about freezing but if you check out pims.psur.cornell.edu/ you can search for trade names or active ingredients and find complete labels online as well as registration status in NY.

Here is the label. Read under storage and disposal. Treflan is a good product, have used it incorporated on hundreds of acres of tomatoes and carrots.
Label

When we used Treflan years ago it wasn't unusual to have some left over from the previous year. A good shaking and it was good to go. I am assuming you know Treflan has to be incorporated to work. It will vaporize if sprayed on the surface and left alone. Mike

Jim is right. Preen and Treflan are the same thing. Preen is just a dry version that uses rain to incorporate.

jt

As stated earlier it needs to be worked in. Read the label but if memory serves it was to be disked in at 2 to 4 inches.

Treflan won't kill weeds that have germinated but will prevent then from germinating. With this in mind till your garden in the spring and then apply the treflan and go over again with a light tiller pass.

DON'T overapply. Read the label but 1 to 1.5 quarts per acre is typical rate. BTW a acre is 43560 square feet so you can figure your garden size from that. Also if memory serves I think it needed 15 gallon of water as the carrier when used in farming.

jt

Jim and big, I was thinking of Preen VEGETABLE GARDEN WEED PREVENTER which (as I stated) does NOT contain trifluralin.

Active ingredient is cornstarch.

Check it out at the link below.
PREEN for veggies

If weeds are a problem, a simple alternative is green, dried like hay, grass clippings with nothing sprayed on the lawn. Till, plant, water, then mulch with this green dry hay like grass mulch. No guess work, just mulch it down with one thick layer of it, then water it flat, walk away from it. No hoeing or weeding, it makes for excellent moisture retention, and additional nitrogen. I'll post photos of the results, but I can only do that from the phone, pc won't load my images, went to type this and do that from the phone, and the internet has stopped message came up and I lost everything I was going to post.

Its a simple solution to a larger problem. I've used hay too,its just a lot more coarse, I like dry grass clippings better. I make strips of it by mowing each way, centering a swath, let the sun dry it down, so its not heavy for the lawn sweep, and that's it, dump off by the garden, pitch it in over the fence in my case, walk away. I watered this garden exactly 4x since 6-20, the photos are 8 weeks later, nothing but the garden plants and some spare area covered for more greens.

Last year, pig weed took it over, it got ahead of me for various reasons, so I let it go. In the fall I trimmed it all back to the dirt, tilled it in, loaded with pigweed seed and straw chaff from the stalks. I added 12 wheel barrow loads of a mulch I make myself, thanksgiving evening, tilled that in, it snowed 1 foot that night. I tilled it again in late March. Pigweed then covered it like a carpet. I used that as green manure and tilled that in when it was powder dry in May, we got rain again and added nitrogen as the plants broke down. Another round of weeds came up, I then tilled, immediately planted and mulched, no weeds to pull at all, nothing but harvest, and there is a big reduction of new weed seed. For a small garden, its too easy, larger is more work, but the same benefits.

If its a loss this year, till it up, plant a cover crop, let that winter, then till that in the spring, add what you like etc. you will not deal with weeds if you mulch it like this, its something I've done all the years I have planted a garden, always works and this years small garden is beyond expectation. Its a good alternative, simple and effective.

I have heard that this mulch can be like thatch, but just the one layer, is all that is needed, when I pull it up, the soil is always moist, the rain gets through and so does the water from the hose, I just use it without any nozzle and water under the plants onto the mulch. You can tell if its drying out, summer squash and cucumber leaves will wilt, tomatoes and corn seem to tolerate it better.

Some photos of the garden using grass mulch. I posted some recent and more current, earliest was one week after planting. On the left I planted corn, weeds came up, you can see the contrast, so there was one strip to hoe, and mulch, thick layer and walk away, a few poked up, pulled by hand and done, but I think I got great results using grass mulch, corn is 8' tall and has 2 ears on each stalk. 60 day variety, Burpee, early and often, seed was last seasons.

I'm down to a half a gallon and use a tablespoon to the gallon in a hand spryer for my peas and beans. Last year I gathered up all of the chemicals between both our places. You would be surprised at what you have. I was able to sale both drums of toxaphene and 15 gallons of paraquart.