Cross bearing help

I am trying to assemble a new yoke and cross bearing. It's going together tough big hammer is not driving them home they are flush but need another 1/4 inch to get them to expose the snap ring is this normal to need a press? Tips?
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You may have knocked a needle bearing or 2 out of the cap. They'll end up in the bottom of the cap and prevent it from going all the way in.

Take it back apart and check it. If no loose needles, I'd measure to make sure you have the Right cross.

as said better check neeedles. if ok then use a vise to press them in not hammer. then use the appropriate socket to finish pressing the cup in.

If you find some needles in the cap, you may have to smear some grease around in the cap to hold them in place until you get it assembled correctly.

If you don't have a press, I've just used a vice to press the parts together, holding a socket on the cap to push it in to where it is supposed to be, then do the other end of the cross the same way.

Like everybody says,a needle is out. When you get it back in,fill the cap with grease and mash it in with your finger to hold the needles in,then put it together with the zerk out so the grease has someplace to go. Don't hammer it. Use a press or vice to push it together.

As others said, take it back apart and check for needles laying down. Then lightly squeeze the cups on the cross in a vice to compress the seals. Take some measurements to be sure it's the correct part.

Then, remove the grease fitting to get it out of the way. Remove all the cups, pack with grease to hold the needles.

Here's the tricky part! Place the empty cross in the yoke. Push it all the way to one side, slip the first cup on the cross journal that is sticking out the yoke. Place the yoke in the vice and squeeze the cup in while keeping the cross journal firmly inserted in the cup to keep the needles in place. Then loosen the vice, put a spacer (a magnet works best) on top of the cup and continue pushing it in, past the snap ring groove, push it all the way in until the cross hits the other vice jaw. Put the snap ring on that cup.

Then carefully start the opposite cup in, be sure the needles are standing straight, push it in with the vice and spacer. Push it until the snap ring seats on the first cup. The snap ring can then be installed on the second cup.

Repeat for the other 2 cups. If it feels stiff, wack the yoke with a hammer on all 4 sides to firmly seat the snap rings and center the joint. Don't forget the grease fitting.

You might also have the yoke turned the wrong way for easy grease gun access. The grease gun will have to be up next to the tractor. I was working on a brand new bush hog that was that way. GRRRRRRRRR.

Got the snap ring in on one side, lack about a 1/16 to expose the groove on this side. Tried my blacksmith post vice, didn't get it. Tried a 16 pound hammer and tapping on the anvil. Just bends out the other snap ring. May gave to go to work and use the big vice. The bearing are new, needles greased and standing up. This is going to be real fun trying to do on the other end still attached to my 14 foot mower is a field....

Thanks guys for the advice

I second this... I had it happen to me once. A needle slipped out of place and stopped up everything.

The yoke may be slightly sprung inward. Try supporting the cup and tapping the yoke apart. It shouldn't take that much force.

I will agree a needle bearing is your problem. Install one cup at a time. This way you are assured it is seated properly. Just use a vise and when you get first cup in, use a 5/8 nut setting against the cup to press it through until opposite side (of cross) touches vise. Visually center cross in yolk and install other cup. You can install retainer first and press until second cup is installed. While it is still in the vise and the 5/8 nut is still being used, you can tap the top of the yolk with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the yolk springs ever-so-slightly and this will spring it back. Hope this isn't too confusing. I can show you easier than tell you. Nathan

It's easy for those needle bearings to fall out as been mentioned. Hal

Dang a 20 ton bottle jack won't do it.

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How in the world do you get it apart to check if there is a crumpled pin?

I agree with just about everything everybody has said. But, one more thing.

Just a couple months ago, had a similar problem. Installed one snap ring, but couldn't quite get the other to seat.Turned out the snap rings were too thick. I purchased the kit from a reputable dealer, but I was unable to install it. Diagnosis made by dealer's mechanic, who was also unable to install it with the original snap rings. Tip off: Not only do the included snap rings look unusually thick, they don't seat in the groove very well.

Zeke B.

Take the snap ring off and push that cup on through,then you'll have to carefully tap the other one back the other way.

It is hard to tell, but it kind of looks like the side next to the nut is not seating properly, that will be the side with the bearing out of place. Removing is difficult. Drive both cups to one side as far as they will go, with large hammer and an impact socket. The part of the cup that sticks out past the yolk can be clamped in a GOOD vise with GOOD jaws and removed by rotating and prying. You will more than likely destroy it. I would replace it with a new one. Looks like a 35 series joint. I just bought some Made in USA for 35.00 last week. When you get it back apart measure to make sure cross is right size. I like to install joint in the 'heaviest' side first and easiest yolk side last. Some of these with cv's can be quit heavy and prone to finger pinching.

Also if you pressed with that much force you have distorted the bearing and put a flat side one it. Another reason to replace with new.

Well guys I think it's torch time and try again with a new bearing. I can also see I better go get the other piece from the mower no way this is going to work in the hay field. Thanks for all the greAt replies. This is such a great place

as long as needles did not fall out, clean the yoke up with a round file in the holes and flat file for clearance. Those things get bat up some.

I would assume you have ruined the u joint, get a new one, make sure pins are aligned and gently squeeze it together in a vice.

Quit trying to force the damn thing!! You need a medium-large vise that can span the yolk plus room enough for a socket against the cup. What you do now is hang the exposed journals of the cross over the vise jaws and pound on the yolk to drive the cups back out and hopefully catch all the needles when they fly. Carefully gather them up, make sure they're not bent or broken (and yes, the cheap weasler needles WILL BEND....), then carefully reinsert them into the cups until you get them all in place, then grease the cup with a dab of grease on your finger. Then put the seals back on the cups...
Now you can begin pressing the cups back into the yolk. What I usually do is press the first one in until it's flush with the inside of the yolk, then install the cross into it... then carefully press it further in until it's far enough to seat the snap ring but don't bother with the snap ring just yet. Make sure that the cup is actually pressed in straight and that the cross is centered visually when viewed from the other cup hole in the yolk. Now start inserting the other cup and MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT. This is where you buggered up the last time. What I generally do is insert it enough so it's just about reached the cross and it's straight.... then slide the cross into the cup so you have part of the cross in BOTH cups.... then finish pressing the second cup home, using an appropriate size socket or nut or whatever is handy that will fit through the yolk. Use the vise to press it. If it binds up real bad, something is wrong. If you get to the last 1/8" and it binds up solid... then a needle has fallen down again. Take it apart again as before and try again.
There is a knack to changing these things but once you get onto it... it's not so bad.... but most of us still have needles fall down sometimes, particularly on old and sometimes bent or worn yolks. The real fun will be when you attempt to install the second set of cups on the shaft yolk...

Rod

Are you sure you have the right cross kit for the yokes you have?

I've messed up just enough of these to now take them to the local drive line shop- they knock them out while I wait for about $10 if I have the parts, or they supply the parts for automotive applications at a reasonable price

If the cross is tight, as in very stiff to turn I'd say you have pushed the ears of the yoke together by pounding on them. Turn the cross 90 degree to the yoke as you have it pictured and then take a blunt cold chisel and pound the outer edge of each ear a little this should gain the 1/16 inch you need and make the cross turn free. To take it apart to check the needles put a larger socket on the bottom to let the cap slide inside and press the cap out.

I've had a few bent yolks over the years too so I know it can happen easily enough...... but do bear in mind that he appears to have a brand new yolk here. I would find it a little odd if it got bent that quickly....

Rod

Sometimes it takes a good smack with a hammer somewhere AWAY from the bearing cap to relieve the stress.

It there is a needle out of place the grade seal will have little or no compression when the cap sops moving. When installed correctly the seals should bulge out a bit.

i guess not! u are doing nothing! just using the u joint as a spacer, and applying pressure right through.