Anyone know if this 12 volt alt could be wired up on 24V sys

Tx Jim

Well-known Member
I think not so but someone on another forum thinks it will work. I think all they will see is SMOKE if wires are attached from batteries to alt. Number on alt is 1103120XXX3A(X's represent unreadable numbers) This is on a JD 5020 SN<-24,999. Sorry for blurry photo but alt has 2 big lugs with nuts on the rear.
Thanks Jim

mvphoto25809.png
 
(quoted from post at 16:12:00 08/10/15) I think not so but someone on another forum thinks it will work. I think all they will see is SMOKE if wires are attached from batteries to alt. Number on alt is 1103120XXX3A(X's represent unreadable numbers) This is on a JD 5020 SN<-24,999. Sorry for blurry photo but alt has 2 big lugs with nuts on the rear.
Thanks Jim

There is a chance that somebody took a 12V core. And swapped in a 24V regulator and floated the stator from chassis.
As previously stated . Bench testing is the only way to know.
 
(quoted from post at 22:48:26 08/10/15)
(quoted from post at 16:12:00 08/10/15) I think not so but someone on another forum thinks it will work. I think all they will see is SMOKE if wires are attached from batteries to alt. Number on alt is 1103120XXX3A(X's represent unreadable numbers) This is on a JD 5020 SN<-24,999. Sorry for blurry photo but alt has 2 big lugs with nuts on the rear.
Thanks Jim

There is a chance that somebody took a 12V core. And swapped in a 24V regulator and floated the stator from chassis.
As previously stated . Bench testing is the only way to know.

That number comes up as a 12V 10SI alternator. It might not be too terribly difficult to convert one to 24V, isolated case. The stator is not connected electrically to the case so that would not be a problem. Swapping a a 24V regulator is easy. That leaves isolating the rectifier bridge, regulator, grounded brush, and installing another terminal like the positive connection stud. The parts that get isolated from the case will now need a connection to a new negative stud.

The negative stud could be done by making another hole in the end frame like the positive stud and using another stud kit. It would be nice to have one of the stud insulators red and the other one black. A problem may be that once you isolate the rectifier bridge from the end frame, the end frame will no longer act as a heat sink. On the other hand, the positive side of the rectifier bridge never is in contact with the end frame so it is only air cooled.

Might make for an interesting project to see if one could be built for a reasonable cost. Are there still enough tractors out there with 24V generators that there might be some demand for one>
 
(quoted from post at 19:50:26




Are there still enough tractors out there with 24V generators that there might be some demand for one>

I would think the number of 24 volt tractors gets smaller each yr.

But my original question wasn't about converting a 12 v alt to 24 volts but charging a 24 volt system with a 12 volt alt charging each 12 v battery independently & simultaneously.
 
(quoted from post at 03:53:55 08/12/15)
(quoted from post at 19:50:26




Are there still enough tractors out there with 24V generators that there might be some demand for one>

I would think the number of 24 volt tractors gets smaller each yr.

But my original question wasn't about converting a 12 v alt to 24 volts but charging a 24 volt system with a 12 volt alt charging each 12 v battery independently & simultaneously.


Do a search for
12-24 VOLT SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
I could post a link but this site might get excited.
 
Normally when using a series parallel switch the main electrical system will be 12 volts with 12v (or 2 6V paired) batteries connected in parallel through the switch. When the starting system is engaged the switch change the battery wiring from parallel to series for the starter giving 24V to the starter only.

John Deere did not do anything that simple. They have basically three different sections of the electrical systems on the tractor. There is a 12V battery connected with positive ground in relation to the chassis. There is another battery that is connected with negative to the chassis. Each battery has part of the 12V electrical load. Then you have the charging and starting system. The whole system is a 24V system that works independently of the chassis. Both the starter and generator have both positive and negative terminals and no electrical connection to the chassis.

There is no way for a series parallel switch to work with that type of system.
 
(quoted from post at 13:12:00 08/10/15) I think not so but someone on another forum thinks it will work. I think all they will see is SMOKE if wires are attached from batteries to alt. Number on alt is 1103120XXX3A(X's represent unreadable numbers) This is on a JD 5020 SN<-24,999. Sorry for blurry photo but alt has 2 big lugs with nuts on the rear.
Thanks Jim

mvphoto25809.png
t can be done. It's all in how you connect it. I had a work van with a power inverter installed in it. The vans system was 12v but the inverter required a 24v supply. I added a second battery in series to get 24v for the inverter input but still was able to charge both batteries. In your case, how you accomplish it will depend on what battery you have. Is it a 24v battery with only 2 terminals or two separate 12v batteries?
 
(quoted from post at 07:38:58 08/12/15)
Do a search for
12-24 VOLT SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
I could post a link but this site might get excited.

And how is a 12-24 volt parallel switch going to allow a true JD 24 volt system to be charged by one 12 volt alt.???
 
The question was could it be done. Probably have to rewire so it looked like a 3020 12 volt. Now install your series parallel switch and it should work.
Makes no sense to do it but it should work.
You can purchase 10si in 6,8,12, or 24 volt in neg or pos ground.
Wonder how they used to get the 6 volt , start on 12 volt batteries to work?
They must have had some solenoids attached to battery.
 

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