Brazing or welding fuel tank

Brendon Warren

Well-known Member
Anybody have any tips on welding my tank on a 65 Massey diesel?
The tank rubbed on a valve cover bolt and is leaking. Tank is
empty. Should I run exhaust into the tank while welding?
a196482.jpg
 
Never run exhaust into a tank for welding! There is more than enough oxygen left in exhaust to burn. Your better off with nothing than exhaust. Since that's not a structural part I would use a putty that Napa sells for patching gas tanks. It comes in 2 strips you work together and put on the tank. It will work with fuel still leaking so no worries about cleanup and no worries about fire. It works great for this type stuff.
 
Just leave the cap off and weld her up, it'll smoke a little though. I've welded truck fuel tanks with fuel in them and on the truck, wouldn't do it if it's gas though.
 
Local well respected welder with a huge business in town did that that in his shop one day.
He did not live to see another day.
Take it to a good radiator shop and let them boil it out and solder it. That is what I do.
Richard in NW SC
 
My opinion too. Brendon it is not safe to put heat to any fuel tank unless it has been cleaned by boiling it out first. The heat from the welding process cause the film that has built-up in the tank over the years to become an explosive gas that can ignite and cause the tank to explode. If you don't have time to take the tank off right now I would go the epoxy route until you can take the tractor out of serve for a while.

You had best get haying! We have some good hay weather coming. Good luck. HB
 
Having blown one once, the only way I'll be involved with welding on a gas or fuel tank is to stand about a hundred yards away with my fingers in my ears while someone suicidal does it.
 
What I did was to fill the tank with water when i soldered the neck on mine.But you can't have the metal area that you are soldering contacting the water because it will absorb your heat,so,judging by your pic you have to leave it lower than your hole,which would leave an air space.But that air space may leave room for explosive vapors to form.Pro welders,I believe,pump argon into the tank while welding.Mark
 
I like the putty idea too, at least give it a try. I would go ahead and drill the hole he rest of the way through, then the putty can push through and spread on the inside to lock it in.
 
Get a tube of Seal-all and saturate a piece of old blue jeans about an inch larger than the hole.
Clean off the tank where the leak is and stick it on.
When I was young and broke I did half a dozen patches on the tank of my old pick-up and it held up every time.
 
This is one of those questions that... if you have to ask, you probably shouldn't be doing it. The bottom line is that you need to control the atmosphere inside the tank to prevent it from exploding because it WILL explode. My preference would be a large volume of Co2... probably a continuous flow from a large bottle or something. Some guys use a large flow of air to vent the tank continuously as they work on it. In reality you're probably better off taking it to someone that has done it before and knows how to weld it without killing themselves...

Rod
 
Yes yes..... clean everything up nice and clean. This keeps the smoke down. Wire brush around the hole but you want to use a stainless brush! Metal brush will poison the metal and it will be a bear to solder. I use a really big solder gun that was made by WELLER. Model d550. Have found a couple at flea markets in the $20.oo range. If the metal on the tank is very heavy then you need to use a propane torch. I have a bunrns o matic 4000 but there is a newer model with a little flame control valve on it. Model 8000? They are great for control! As you solder make only little bursts of heat!! The solder will burn and now you have a REAL mess. JUST enough heat to make the solder flow. Stop at depot and pick up some of the newest solder for copper pipe. This new stuff made in the past couple of years flows like butter! Also get a little round plastic container of Oakley solder past. Last stop is a good grocer store and get some dry ice. crush a little and pour it into the tank. You can also use a CO2 extinguisher. I have never had a lick of trouble fixing tanks but my dad blew the side of one right across the shop one day. Good it was only a little lawn mower tank. If you feel unsure then take it to someone!! A little tip is if the hole is on the bigger side I solder a penny over the hole. You need to find one from 1983 back. These are REAL pennys made of copper not zink. Jeffcat
 
Use a ball peen hammer and dent the wear spot in about 1/4 inch. Drill out the hole for a 3/16 pop rivet. Install the rivet with tank putty under the head. Use the epoxy tank putty to fill the depression (assuming it now will clear the cover bolt) and put it back together. Jim
 
Welded and braized a few tanks by rinseing them then filling with water and TSP for a few days rinsing some more
tieing propane torch to long stick hiding behind tree or shed sticking torch in tank for a minute if nothing happened went to welding never had a problem.
 
(quoted from post at 06:56:43 07/20/15) Anybody have any tips on welding my tank on a 65 Massey diesel?
The tank rubbed on a valve cover bolt and is leaking. Tank is
empty. Should I run exhaust into the tank while welding?
a196482.jpg

Yep - I've arc-welded diesel saddle tanks on big trucks that were full of diesel (make sure you're set right and don't burn through 8) ) I've heard of guys welding up bulk-fuel transport tanks by having them full and pulling the caps open on a full tank and lighting it - when the welding is done they just close the lids and the fire goes out! If it's a leaking GAS tank I use a soldering copper (heat some steel and place it around the spot to help keep enough heat for soldering) and brass rod or sheet if it's a big crack. Just remember - it's the [b:6ff75e4d0a]FUMES[/b:6ff75e4d0a] THAT GET YOU!, NOT BURNING FUEL! For your job (diesel) I'd prep the area, take off the cap, fill the tank and mig or tig the hole up, but that's just me, :) or a bit of solder would do OR, for a flameless fix use one of the compounds used by some other guys - [b:6ff75e4d0a]Determined[/b:6ff75e4d0a] seems to have 'been there and done that' (don't know if it would take much denim; if you are concerned about looks you should be able to sand it smooth after it's set.
 
(quoted from post at 10:08:37 07/20/15) All brazed and back on the tractor. I still have all my digits and facial hair. Thanks.

HOT DOG! You done good; proud of you! :)
 
Brendon, if that tank HAD blown, your "digits" and facial hair would be the least of your worries. Do you have ANY idea, in a worst-case scenario, the explosive force that could be generated by a tank that size?
 
(quoted from post at 13:28:07 07/20/15) Get a tube of Seal-all and saturate a piece of old blue jeans about an inch larger than the hole.
Clean off the tank where the leak is and stick it on.
When I was young and broke I did half a dozen patches on the tank of my old pick-up and it held up every time.

THIS!! Only clean the area to be patched before soaking the patch.
 
It used to be your tractor before, so maybe you brazed it once before. I put some spacers under it this time. Underage as soon as the weather allows Ill be haying full bore. You never said how much for the haybine.
 
(quoted from post at 06:55:16 07/20/15) My opinion too. Brendon it is not safe to put heat to any fuel tank unless it has been cleaned by boiling it out first. The heat from the welding process cause the film that has built-up in the tank over the years to become an explosive gas that can ignite and cause the tank to explode. If you don't have time to take the tank off right now I would go the epoxy route until you can take the tractor out of serve for a while.

You had best get haying! We have some good hay weather coming. Good luck. HB

I have never encountered this film build-up. It is something that is not dissolved by fuel? Can you give some reference for this? I have observed tanks being repaired by brazing or soldering a number of times. We use strictly non explosive diesel here in NH. It is combustible only. It is necessary however to have it vented so that pressure will not build up. A few years ago the drain plug on my 9000 fuel tank was leaking, so I unsoldered it, cleaned and retinned the area, and soldered it back on.
 
The procedure recommended by IH to repair any cracks on the Steiger built tractors was to fill the tank with diesel, peen the crack until the leak stops, and weld it up.
 
I agree with jon f mn. In 1985 the gas tank on my 1955 Ford F-800 developed a 2" crack and started leaking while I was leaving town. I noticed it, stopped on the side of the road and caught a ride to the closest auto parts store and bought some of that two part epoxy. When I got back to the truck there was a good size puddle under it, mixed and applied the epoxy, the truck is in my yard now and has never leaked since.

Apparently since you successfully brazed it you are good to go, but the epoxy is a safe and very long lasting repair.

Warren
 
(quoted from post at 21:53:24 07/20/15)
(quoted from post at 06:55:16 07/20/15) My opinion too. Brendon it is not safe to put heat to any fuel tank unless it has been cleaned by boiling it out first. The heat from the welding process cause the film that has built-up in the tank over the years to become an explosive gas that can ignite and cause the tank to explode. If you don't have time to take the tank off right now I would go the epoxy route until you can take the tractor out of serve for a while.

You had best get haying! We have some good hay weather coming. Good luck. HB

I have never encountered this film build-up. It is something that is not dissolved by fuel? Can you give some reference for this? I have observed tanks being repaired by brazing or soldering a number of times. We use strictly non explosive diesel here in NH. It is combustible only. It is necessary however to have it vented so that pressure will not build up. A few years ago the drain plug on my 9000 fuel tank was leaking, so I unsoldered it, cleaned and retinned the area, and soldered it back on.
ust my thinking, mind you, but I believe the "trapped hidden" stuff that doesn't wash out & becomes vapor when heated is in the seams.
 
(quoted from post at 00:08:32 07/21/15)
(quoted from post at 21:53:24 07/20/15)
(quoted from post at 06:55:16 07/20/15) My opinion too. Brendon it is not safe to put heat to any fuel tank unless it has been cleaned by boiling it out first. The heat from the welding process cause the film that has built-up in the tank over the years to become an explosive gas that can ignite and cause the tank to explode. If you don't have time to take the tank off right now I would go the epoxy route until you can take the tractor out of serve for a while.

You had best get haying! We have some good hay weather coming. Good luck. HB

I have never encountered this film build-up. It is something that is not dissolved by fuel? Can you give some reference for this? I have observed tanks being repaired by brazing or soldering a number of times. We use strictly non explosive diesel here in NH. It is combustible only. It is necessary however to have it vented so that pressure will not build up. A few years ago the drain plug on my 9000 fuel tank was leaking, so I unsoldered it, cleaned and retinned the area, and soldered it back on.
ust my thinking, mind you, but I believe the "trapped hidden" stuff that doesn't wash out & becomes vapor when heated is in the seams.

I wonder how seams can hold with that build-up in them. You would think that it would be between the two pieces that are supposed to be joined at the seam.
 
purge it with co2 or argon or don't do it. seen it done with water but why take a chance. had a gas tank blow on me with water now you can call me chicken. tank putty works too
 

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